Science Has Spoiled My Supper
科学破坏了我的晚餐

Phillip Wylie
菲利普·怀利

I am a fan for Science. My education is scientific and I have, in one field, contributed a monograph to a scientific journal. Science, to my mind, is applied honesty, the one reliable means we have to find out truth. That is why, when error is committed in the name of Science, I feel the way a man would if his favorite uncle had taken to drink.
我是科学的粉丝。我接受的教育是科学的，我在一个领域为一本科学期刊撰写了一篇专着。在我看来，科学是诚实的应用，是我们发现真理的唯一可靠手段。这就是为什么，当以科学的名义犯下错误时，我的感觉就像一个人如果他最喜欢的叔叔酗酒一样。

Over the years, I have come to feel that way about what science has done to food. I agree that America can set as good a table as any nation in the world. I agree that our food is nutritious and that the diet of most of us is well-balanced. What America eats is handsomely packaged; it is usually clean and pure; it is excellently preserved. The only trouble with it is this: year by year it grows less good to eat. It appeals increasingly to the eye. But who eats with his eyes? Almost everything used to taste better when I was a kid.
多年来，我对科学对食品的影响有了这样的感觉。我同意美国可以像世界上任何国家一样摆出一张好桌子。我同意我们的食物是有营养的，而且我们大多数人的饮食是均衡的。美国人吃的东西包装精美；它通常是干净、纯净的；它保存完好。它唯一的麻烦是：它的味道一年比一年差。它越来越吸引眼球。但谁用眼睛吃饭呢？当我还是个孩子的时候，几乎所有东西的味道都更好。

For quite a long time I thought that observation was merely another index of advancing age. But some years ago I married a girl whose mother is an expert cook of the kind called “old-fashioned.” This gifted woman’s daughter (my wife) was taught her mother’s venerable skills. The mother lives in the country and still plants an old-fashioned garden. She still buys dairy products from the neighbors and, in so far as possible, she uses the same materials her mother and grandmother did—to prepare meals that are superior. They are just as good, in this Year of Grace, as I recall them from my courtship. After eating for a while at the table of my mother-in-law, it is sad to go back to eating with my friends—even the alleged “good cooks” among them. And it is a gruesome experience to have meals at the best big-city restaurants.
在相当长的一段时间里，我认为观察只是年龄增长的另一个指标。但几年前，我娶了一个女孩，她的母亲是一位被称为“老式”的专家厨师。这位天才妇女的女儿（我的妻子）从她母亲那里学到了令人尊敬的技艺。母亲住在乡下，仍然种植着一个老式花园。她仍然从邻居那里购买乳制品，并尽可能使用与母亲和祖母相同的材料来准备优质的饭菜。在这个恩典之年，他们和我在求爱时回忆的一样好。在婆婆的餐桌上吃了一段时间后，回到和朋友们一起吃饭——甚至是他们当中所谓的“好厨师”——一起吃饭，我感到很难过。在大城市最好的餐厅吃饭是一种可怕的经历。

Take cheese, for instance. Here and there, in big cities, small stores and delicatessens specialize in cheese. At such places, one can buy at least some of the first-rate cheeses that we used to eat—such as those we had with pie and in macaroni. The latter were sharp but not too sharp. They were a little crumbly. We called them American cheeses, or even rat cheese; actually they were Cheddars. Long ago, this cheese began to be supplanted by a material called “cheese foods.” Some cheese foods and “processed” cheese are fairly edible; but not one comes within miles of the old kinds—for flavor.
以奶酪为例。在大城市里，到处都有专营奶酪的小商店和熟食店。在这些地方，人们至少可以买到一些我们以前吃过的一流奶酪——比如我们搭配馅饼和通心粉吃的奶酪。后者很锋利，但不太锋利。它们有点易碎。我们称它们为“美国奶酪”，甚至称为“老鼠奶酪”；实际上他们是切达干酪。很久以前，这种奶酪开始被一种称为“奶酪食品”的材料取代。一些奶酪食品和“加工”奶酪是相当可以食用的。但没有一种能与旧品种相媲美——为了风味。

A grocer used to be very fussy about his cheese. Cheddar was made and sold by hundreds of little factories. Representatives of the factories had particular customers, and cheese was prepared by hand to suit the grocers, who knew precisely what their patrons wanted in rat cheese, pie cheese, American and other cheeses. Some liked them sharper; some liked them yellower; some liked anise seeds in cheese, or caraway.
一位杂货商过去对他的奶酪非常挑剔。切达干酪是由数百家小工厂生产和销售的。工厂的代表有特定的顾客，奶酪是手工制作的以满足杂货商的需求，他们确切地知道他们的顾客想要什么老鼠奶酪、馅饼奶酪、美国奶酪和其他奶酪。有些人更喜欢它们的锐利；有些人则更喜欢它们。有些人喜欢颜色更黄的；有些人喜欢颜色更黄的。有些人喜欢奶酪中的茴香籽或香菜。
What happened? Science—or what is called science—stepped in. The old-fashioned cheeses didn’t ship well enough. They crumbled, became moldy, dried out. “Scientific” tests disclosed that a great majority of the people will buy a less-good-tasting cheese if that’s all they can get. “Scientific marketing” then took effect. Its motto is “Give the people the least quality they’ll stand for.” In food, as in many other things, the “scientific marketers” regard quality as secondary so long as they can sell most persons anyhow; what they are after is “durability” or “shippability.”
发生了什么？科学——或者所谓的科学——介入了。老式奶酪的运输不够好。它们碎裂、发霉、干涸。 “科学”测试表明，如果他们只能买到这种奶酪，大多数人都会购买味道不太好的奶酪。 “科学营销”随即发挥作用。它的座右铭是“给人们他们所能代表的最低质量”。在食品方面，就像在许多其他事情上一样，“科学营销人员”认为质量是次要的，只要他们无论如何都能卖掉大多数人。他们追求的是“耐用性”或“可运输性”。

It is not possible to make the very best cheese in vast quantities at a low average cost. “Scientific sampling” got in its statistically nasty work. It was found that the largest number of people will buy something that is bland and rather tasteless. Those who prefer a product of a pronounced and individualistic flavor have a variety of preferences. Nobody is altogether pleased by bland foodstuff, in other words; but nobody is very violently put off. The result is that a “reason” has been found for turning out zillions of packages of something that will “do” for nearly all and isn’t even imagined to be superlatively good by a single soul!
以较低的平均成本大量生产最好的奶酪是不可能的。 “科学抽样”的统计工作令人讨厌。研究发现，大多数人会购买平淡无味的东西。那些喜欢具有明显和个性化风味的产品的人有各种各样的偏好。换句话说，没有人会对清淡的食物感到完全满意。但没有人会非常强烈地推迟。结果是，我们找到了一个“理由”，可以生产出无数的包装，这些包装几乎对所有人都“有用”，甚至没有一个人认为它是最好的！

Economics entered. It is possible to turn out in quantity a bland, impersonal, practically imperishable substance more or less resembling, say, cheese—at lower cost than cheese. Chain groceries shut out the independent stores and “standardization” became a principal means of cutting costs.
经济学进入了。有可能以比奶酪更低的成本大量生产一种平淡的、客观的、几乎不会腐烂的物质，或多或少类似于奶酪。连锁杂货将独立商店拒之门外，“标准化”成为削减成本的主要手段。

Imitations also came into the cheese business. There are American duplications of most of the celebrated European cheeses, mass-produced and cheaper by far than the imports. They would cause European food-lovers to gag or guffaw—but generally the imitations are all that’s available in the supermarkets. People buy them and eat them.
仿制品也进入了奶酪行业。大多数著名的欧洲奶酪都有美国复制品，批量生产，而且价格远远低于进口奶酪。它们会让欧洲美食爱好者感到窒息或大笑——但一般来说，超市里都能买到仿制品。人们购买它们并食用它们。

Perhaps you don’t like cheese—so the fact that decent cheese is hardly ever served in America any more, or used in cooking, doesn’t matter to you. Well, take bread. There has been (and still is) something of a hullabaloo about bread. In fact, in the last few years, a few big bakeries have taken to making a fairly good imitation of real bread. It costs much more than what is nowadays called bread, but it is edible. Most persons, however, now eat as “bread” a substance so full of chemicals and so barren of cereals that it approaches a synthetic.
也许您不喜欢奶酪，因此美国几乎不再提供像样的奶酪或用于烹饪，这一事实对您来说并不重要。嗯，拿面包吧。关于面包曾经（现在仍然）存在一些喧嚣。事实上，在过去的几年里，一些大型面包店已经开始制作相当不错的真面包仿制品。它的价格比现在所谓的面包贵得多，但它是可以食用的。然而，现在大多数人吃的“面包”是一种富含化学物质、不含谷物的物质，接近于合成物。

Most bakers are interested mainly in how a loaf of bread looks. They are concerned with how little stuff they can put in it—to get how much money. They are deeply interested in using chemicals that will keep bread from molding, make it seem “fresh” for the longest possible time, and so render it marketable and shippable. They have been at this monkeyshine for a generation. Today a loaf of “bread” looks deceptively real; but it is made from heaven knows what and it resembles, as food, a solidified bubble bath. Some months ago I bought a loaf of the stuff and, experimentally, began pressing it together, like an accordion. With a little effort, I squeezed the whole loaf to a length of about one inch.
大多数面包师主要对面包的外观感兴趣。他们关心的是他们可以投入多少东西来获得多少钱。他们对使用化学物质非常感兴趣，这些化学物质可以防止面包发霉，使其在尽可能长的时间内看起来“新鲜”，从而使其可销售和运输。他们已经在这家猴子店待了一代人了。如今，一条“面包”看起来非常真实。但它是由天知道是什么制成的，就像食物一样，它类似于凝固的泡泡浴。几个月前，我买了一条这种东西，并开始实验性地把它压在一起，就像手风琴一样。经过一点努力，我把整条面包挤到了一英寸左右的长度。

Yesterday, at the home of my mother-in-law, I ate with country-churned butter and home-canned wild strawberry jam several slices of actual bread, the same thing we used to have every day at home. People who have eaten actual bread will know what I mean. They will know that the material commonly called bread is not even related to real bread, except in name.
昨天，在婆婆家里，我吃了乡村黄油和自制野草莓酱罐头，还有几片真正的面包，和我们以前每天在家里吃的一样。真正吃过面包的人就会明白我的意思。他们会知道，这种通常被称为面包的材料除了名义上之外，甚至与真正的面包没有任何关系。

For years, I couldn’t figure out what had happened to vegetables. I knew, of course, that most vegetables, to be enjoyed in their full deliciousness, must be picked fresh and cooked at once. I knew that vegetables cannot be overcooked and remain even edible, in the best sense. They cannot stand on the stove. That set of facts makes it impossible, of course, for any American restaurant—or, indeed, any city-dweller separated from supply by more than a few hours—to have decent fresh vegetables. The Parisians manage by getting their vegetables picked at dawn and rushed in farmers’ carts to market, where no middleman or marketman delays produce on its way to the pot.
多年来，我一直不明白蔬菜发生了什么事。当然，我知道，大多数蔬菜要想充分享受其美味，就必须新鲜采摘并立即煮熟。我知道蔬菜不能煮得太熟，而且从最好的意义上说仍然可以食用。他们不能站在炉子上。当然，这一系列事实使得任何一家美国餐馆——或者事实上，任何与供应相隔几个小时以上的城市居民——都不可能有像样的新鲜蔬菜。巴黎人的管理方式是在黎明时分采摘蔬菜，然后用农夫的推车赶往市场，那里没有中间人或市场人员延误农产品运往锅里的时间。

Our vegetables, however, come to us through a long chain of command. There are merchants of several sorts—wholesalers before the retailers, commission men, and so on—with the result that what were once edible products become, in transit, mere wilted leaves and withered tubers.
然而，我们的蔬菜是通过一长串的指挥链来到我们身边的。有各种各样的商人——在零售商之前的批发商、佣金商等等——其结果是，曾经可食用的产品在运输过程中变成了枯萎的叶子和枯萎的块茎。

Homes and restaurants do what they can with this stuff—which my mother-in-law would discard on the spot. I have long thought that the famed blindfold test for cigarettes should be applied to city vegetables. For I am sure that if you pureed them and ate them blindfolded, you couldn’t tell the beans from the peas, the turnips from the squash, the Brussels sprouts from the broccoli.
家庭和餐馆会尽其所能地处理这些东西——我岳母会当场丢弃它们。我一直认为著名的香烟蒙眼测试应该适用于城市蔬菜。因为我确信，如果你把它们捣成泥并蒙着眼睛吃，你就无法区分豆子和豌豆，萝卜和南瓜，球芽甘蓝和西兰花。

It is only lately that I have found how much science has to do with this reduction of noble victuals to pottage. Here the science of genetics is involved. Agronomists and the like have taken to breeding all sorts of vegetables and fruits—changing their original nature. This sounds wonderful and often is insane. For the scientists have not as a rule taken any interest whatsoever in the taste of the things they’ve tampered with!
直到最近我才发现科学与将高贵的食物减少为浓汤有多大关系。这里涉及到遗传学。农学家等人已经开始培育各种蔬菜和水果——改变它们的原始性质。这听起来很棒，但往往很疯狂。因为科学家通常对他们篡改过的东西的味道没有任何兴趣！
What they’ve done is to develop “improved” strains of things for every purpose but eating. They work out, say, peas that will ripen all at once. The farmer can then harvest his peas and thresh them and be done with them. It is extremely profitable because it is efficient. What matter if such peas taste like boiled paper wads?
他们所做的就是开发“改良”的东西品种，用于除食用之外的各种用途。比方说，他们研究出可以同时成熟的豌豆。然后，农民可以收获豌豆并脱粒，然后就可以了。它非常有利可图，因为它非常高效。如果这样的豌豆尝起来像煮过的纸团又有什么关系呢？

Geneticists have gone crazy over such “opportunities.” They’ve developed string beans that are straight instead of curved, and all one length. This makes them easier to pack in cans, even if, when eating them, you can’t tell them from tender string. Ripening time and identity of size and shape are, nowadays, more important in carrots than the fact that they taste like carrots. Personally, I don’t care if they hybridize onions till they are as big as your head and come up through the snow; but, in doing so, they are producing onions that only vaguely and feebly remind you of onions. We are getting some varieties, in fact, that have less flavor than the water off last week’s leeks. Yet, if people don’t eat onions because they taste like onions, what in the name of Luther Burbank do they eat them for?
遗传学家对这样的“机会”感到疯狂。他们开发出了直的而不是弯曲的四季豆，而且都是同一长度。这使得它们更容易装在罐头中，即使在吃它们时，你无法区分它们和嫩绳。如今，对于胡萝卜来说，成熟时间以及大小和形状的一致性比它们的味道像胡萝卜更重要。就我个人而言，我不在乎他们是否将洋葱杂交，直到它们像你的头一样大并从雪中冒出来;但是，在这样做的过程中，他们生产的洋葱只能模糊地、微弱地让你想起洋葱。事实上，我们得到的一些品种的味道不如上周的韭菜。然而，如果人们因为味道像洋葱而不吃洋葱，那么以路德·伯班克的名义，他们吃洋葱是为了什么？

The women’s magazines are about one third dedicated to clothes, one third to mild comment on sex, and the other third to recipes and pictures of handsome salads, desserts, and main courses. “Institutes” exist to experiment and tell housewives how to cook attractive meals and how to turn leftovers into works of art. The food thus pictured looks like famous paintings of still life. The only trouble is it’s tasteless. It leaves appetite unquenched and merely serves to stave off famine.
女性杂志大约有三分之一是关于服装的，三分之一是对性的温和评论，另外三分之一是漂亮的沙拉、甜点和主菜的食谱和图片。 “学院”的存在是为了实验并告诉家庭主妇如何烹饪美味的饭菜以及如何将剩菜变成艺术品。图中的食物看起来就像著名的静物画。唯一的问题是它没什么味道。它不会抑制食欲，只能起到避免饥荒的作用。

I wonder if this blandness of our diet doesn’t explain why so many of us are overweight and even dangerously so. When things had flavor, we knew what we were eating all the while—and it satisfied us. A teaspoonful of my mother-in-law’s wild strawberry jam will not just provide a gastronome’s ecstasy: it will entirely satisfy your jam desire. But, of the average tinned or glass-packed strawberry jam, you need half a cupful to get the idea of what you’re eating. A slice of my mother-in-law’s apple pie will satiate you far better than a whole bakery pie.
我想知道我们的饮食清淡是否不能解释为什么我们中有这么多人超重，甚至是危险的。当食物有味道时，我们一直知道自己在吃什么——这让我们感到满足。一茶匙我婆婆的野草莓酱不仅能提供美食家的狂喜：它还能完全满足你对果酱的渴望。但是，对于普通的罐装或玻璃包装的草莓酱，您需要半杯才能知道自己在吃什么。一片我岳母做的苹果派比整个面包店派更能让你满足。

That thought is worthy of investigation—of genuine scientific investigation. It is merely a hypothesis, so far, and my own. But people-and their ancestors—have been eating according to flavor for upwards of a billion years. The need to satisfy the sense of taste may be innate and important. When food is merely a pretty cascade of viands, with the texture of boiled cardboard and the flavor of library paste, it may be the instinct of genus homo to go on eating in the unconscious hope of finally satisfying the ageless craving of the frustrated taste buds. In the days when good-tasting food was the rule in the American home, obesity wasn’t such a national curse.
这种想法值得研究——真正的科学研究。到目前为止，这只是一个假设，也是我自己的假设。但人们——以及他们的祖先——已经根据口味进食已有十亿年之久。满足味觉的需要可能是与生俱来的且重要的。当食物只是一串漂亮的食物，具有煮熟的纸板的质感和图书馆糊状物的味道时，人类的本能可能是继续吃下去，无意识地希望最终满足受挫的味蕾永恒的渴望。 。在美味食物成为美国家庭常态的时代，肥胖并不是一个全国性的诅咒。

How can you feel you’ve eaten if you haven’t tasted, and fully enjoyed tasting? Why (since science is ever so ready to answer the beck and call of mankind) don’t people who want to reduce merely give up eating and get the nourishment they must have in measured doses shot into their arms at hospitals? One ready answer to that question suggests that my theory of overeating is sound: people like to taste! In eating, they try to satisfy that like.
如果你没有品尝过，又怎么能充分享受品尝的乐趣呢？为什么（既然科学已经准备好回应人类的召唤）那些想要减少饮食的人不干脆放弃进食，并在医院将他们必须的定量营养注射到手臂上呢？这个问题的一个现成答案表明我的暴饮暴食理论是合理的：人们喜欢品尝！在吃的时候，他们会尽量满足这种感觉。

The scientific war against deliciousness has been stepped up enormously in the last decade. Some infernal genius found a way to make biscuit batter keep. Housewives began to buy this premixed stuff. It saved work, of course. But any normally intelligent person can learn, in a short period, how to prepare superb baking powder biscuits. I can make better biscuits, myself, than can be made from patent batters. Yet soon after this fiasco became an American staple, it was discovered that a half-baked substitute for all sorts of breads, pastries, rolls, and the like could be mass-manufactured, frozen—and sold for polishing off in the home oven. None of these two-stage creations is as good as even a fair sample of the thing it imitates. A man of taste, who had eaten one of my wife’s cinnamon buns, might use the premixed sort to throw at starlings—but not to eat! Cake mixes, too, come ready-prepared—like cement and not much better-tasting compared with true cake.
在过去的十年里，针对美味的科学战争已经大大加剧。一些地狱般的天才找到了一种让饼干面糊保存下来的方法。家庭主妇开始购买这种预混合的东西。当然，它节省了工作。但任何正常聪明的人都可以在短时间内学会如何制作优质的发酵粉饼干。我自己可以制作比专利面糊更好的饼干。然而，在这场惨败成为美国的主食后不久，人们发现各种面包、糕点、面包卷等的半生不熟的替代品可以大规模生产、冷冻，然后出售，在家用烤箱中烤熟。这些两阶段的创作都比不上它所模仿的事物的公平样本。一个有品味的人，吃了我妻子的一个肉桂面包，可能会用预混合的那种来扔八哥——但不是为了吃！蛋糕粉也是现成的——就像水泥一样，但与真正的蛋糕相比，味道并没有好多少。

It is, however, “deep-freezing” that has really rung down the curtain on American cookery. Nothing is improved by the process. I have yet to taste a deep-frozen victual that measures up, in flavor, to the fresh, unfrosted original. And most foods, cooked or uncooked, are destroyed in the deep freeze for all people of sense and sensibility. Vegetables with crisp and crackling texture emerge as mush, slippery and stringy as hair nets simmered in Vaseline. The essential oils that make peas peas—and cabbage cabbage—must undergo fission and fusion in freezers. Anyhow, they vanish. Some meats turn to leather. Others to wood pulp. Everything, pretty much, tastes like the mosses of tundra, dug up in midwinter. Even the appearance changes, oftentimes. Handsome comestibles you put down in the summer come out looking very much like the corpses of woolly mammoths recovered from the last Ice Age.
然而，真正让美国烹饪落下帷幕的是“深度冷冻”。这个过程没有任何改进。我还没有尝过一种在味道上能与新鲜、未结霜的原味相媲美的速冻食品。对于所有有理智和情感的人来说，大多数食物，无论是煮熟的还是未煮熟的，都会在深度冷冻中被破坏。质地酥脆、噼啪作响的蔬菜变得像在凡士林中慢炖的发网一样糊状、滑溜和粘稠。制作豌豆和卷心菜的精油必须在冰箱中进行裂变和融合。不管怎样，他们消失了。有些肉会变成皮革。其他为木浆。几乎所有东西的味道都像仲冬时挖出的苔原苔藓。甚至外观也经常发生变化。你在夏天放下的漂亮食物看起来很像从上一个冰河时代发现的长毛猛犸象的尸体。

Of course, all this scientific “food handling” tends to save money. It certainly preserves food longer. It reduces work at home. But these facts, and especially the last, imply that the first purpose of living is to avoid work—at home, anyhow.
当然，所有这些科学的“食品处理”往往会省钱。它确实可以更长时间地保存食物。它减少了在家的工作。但这些事实，尤其是最后一个事实，意味着生活的首要目的是避免工作——无论如何，在家里。

Without thinking, we are making an important confession about ourselves as a nation. We are abandoning quality—even, to some extent, the quality of people. The “best” is becoming too good for us. We are suckling ourselves on machine-made mediocrity. It is bad for our souls, our minds, and our digestion. It is the way our wiser and calmer forebears fed, not people, but hogs: as much as possible and as fast as possible, with no standard of quality.
我们不假思索地对自己作为一个国家做出了重要的坦白。我们正在放弃质量——甚至在某种程度上，放弃人的质量。 “最好的”对我们来说变得太好了。我们正沉浸在机器制造的平庸之中。它对我们的灵魂、思想和消化都有害。这是我们更明智、更冷静的祖先喂养猪的方式，不是喂人，而是喂猪：尽可能多、尽可能快，没有质量标准。

The Germans say, “Mann ist ivas er isst—Man is what he eats.” If this be true, the people of the U.S.A. are well on their way to becoming a faceless mob of mediocrities, of robots. And if we apply to other attributes the criteria we apply these days to appetite, that is what would happen! We would not want bright children any more; we’d merely want them to look bright—and get through school fast. We wouldn’t be interested in beautiful women—just a good paint job. And we’d be opposed to the most precious quality of man: his individuality, his differentness from the mob.
德国人说：“Mann ist ivas er isst——人就是他吃的东西。”如果这是真的，那么美国人民将很快成为一群不露面的平庸暴民和机器人。如果我们将当今应用于食欲的标准应用于其他属性，那就会发生什么！我们不再想要聪明的孩子；我们只是希望他们看起来聪明，并快速完成学业。我们不会对漂亮女人感兴趣——只对好的油漆工作感兴趣。我们会反对人最宝贵的品质：他的个性，他与暴民的不同。

There are some people—sociologists and psychologists among them—who say that is exactly what we Americans are doing, are becoming. Mass man, they say, is on the increase. Conformity, standardization, similarity—all on a cheap and vulgar level—are replacing the great American ideas of colorful liberty and dignified individualism. If this is so, the process may well begin, like most human behavior, in the home—in those homes where a good meal has been replaced by something-to-eat-in-a-hurry. By something not very good to eat, prepared by a mother without very much to do, for a family that doesn’t feel it amounts to much anyhow.
有些人——其中包括社会学家和心理学家——说这正是我们美国人正在做的、正在成为的。他们说，群众人数正在增加。一致性、标准化、相似性——所有这些都在廉价和粗俗的层面上——正在取代丰富多彩的自由和有尊严的个人主义的伟大美国思想。如果是这样的话，这个过程很可能像大多数人类行为一样，在家里开始——在那些一顿美餐被匆忙吃的东西取代的家里。一些不太好吃的东西，是由一位没有太多事情可做的母亲准备的，对于一个觉得无论如何也没什么意义的家庭。

I call, here, for rebellion.
我在这里呼吁叛乱。