I already have a Kodak Ektar film simulation recipe that I published a little over two years ago, but I’ve been wanting to revisit it for awhile. In the article that I published for that recipe, I wrote, “I’m actually a little hesitant to call this film simulation recipe Kodak Ektar 100 because it’s not quite right.
我已经有一个柯达Ektar胶片模拟配方,我在两年多前发布过,但我一直想重新审视它。在我为那个配方发布的文章中,我写道:“我实际上有点犹豫称这个胶片模拟配方为柯达Ektar 100,因为它并不完全正确。”
It’s close, but a little off. The color palette is slightly askew.” That’s a true statement. My original Ektar recipe is close but no cigar. Since that time Fujifilm has added more JPEG options to their cameras, so would it be possible to get closer to real Ektar on my X100V?
很接近,但有点偏离。色彩调色板稍微有些不对称。这是一个真实的陈述。我的原始Ektar配方接近但不完美。自那时以来,富士公司在他们的相机上增加了更多的JPEG选项,所以在我的X100V上更接近真实的Ektar是可能的吗?
Kodak introduced Ektar in 1989. It has been made in ISO 25, 100, 125, 400 and 1000 versions at one time or another. Kodak discontinued Ektar in 1997, but they brought it back in 2008 with an updated emulsion. I’ve shot the old Ektar but never the new Ektar.
柯达于1989年推出了Ektar。它曾经以ISO 25、100、125、400和1000的版本制造过。柯达在1997年停产了Ektar,但在2008年推出了更新的乳剂版本。我曾经使用过旧版的Ektar,但从未使用过新版的Ektar。
It’s my understanding that they’re similar but not exactly the same.
我理解它们相似但并不完全相同。
This new film simulation recipe will be controversial. To achieve a more correct color palette, this recipe is based off of Classic Chrome instead of Astia.
这个新的电影模拟配方将会引起争议。为了获得更准确的色彩调色板,这个配方是基于经典铬而不是阿斯蒂亚。
The reason that I used Astia in the original recipe is because “Classic Chrome isn’t vibrant enough, even with Color set to +4.” That’s still true, although Color Chrome Effect does help a little. Honestly, if +6 was an option, that’s what I’d set Color to.
我在原始配方中使用Astia的原因是因为“即使将颜色设置为+4,Classic Chrome的色彩也不够鲜艳。”尽管Color Chrome效果有所帮助,但这仍然是真实的。老实说,如果有+6的选项,我会将颜色设置为那个值。
Unfortunately that’s not an option, so we have a slightly undersaturated recipe.
很不幸,这不是一个选择,所以我们有一个稍微不足的配方。
Another issue is that Ektar can have several different looks, depending on how it’s shot, developed, and printed or scanned, just like any film; however, with Ektar, even a 1/3 stop over or under exposure can noticeably effect the aesthetics of the picture.
另一个问题是,Ektar的外观可能因拍摄、冲洗、打印或扫描方式的不同而有所不同,就像其他胶片一样;然而,与其他胶片不同的是,即使曝光过度或不足1/3档,也会明显影响图片的美感。
Fuji X Weekly reader Thomas Schwab helped me immensely with this recipe. He’s had a hand in several recipes, and even created one from scratch that’s quite popular: Urban Vintage Chrome. Thomas captured a bunch of pictures with actual Ektar film, and made several similar exposures with his X-Trans IV cameras. He showed me examples of both, applying my original Ektar recipe to the pictures captured with his Fujifilm cameras.
富士X每周的读者Thomas Schwab对这个食谱帮助了我很多。他参与了几个食谱的制作,甚至从零开始创造了一个非常受欢迎的食谱:Urban Vintage Chrome。Thomas用真正的Ektar胶片拍摄了一堆照片,并用他的X-Trans IV相机进行了几次类似的曝光。他向我展示了两者的例子,将我的原始Ektar食谱应用于他用富士相机拍摄的照片上。
Then we began to create a new Kodak Ektar 100 film simulation recipe based on his Ektar pictures, hoping to achieve something closer to the film than the original recipe.
然后我们开始根据他的Ektar照片创建一个新的柯达Ektar 100胶片模拟配方,希望能够实现比原始配方更接近胶片的效果。
We discovered very quickly that Ektar is impossible to faithfully recreate on Fujifilm cameras, because only Classic Chrome has the correct color palette, and it’s not vibrant enough. We tried Astia, Provia, Velvia, and PRO Neg.
我们很快发现,在富士相机上无法忠实地再现Ektar的效果,因为只有经典铬色拥有正确的色彩调色板,而且它的色彩不够鲜艳。我们尝试了Astia、Provia、Velvia和PRO Neg。
Hi, and of those Astia was the closest, but none of them were right. We settled on Classic Chrome despite it not being vibrant enough. We went back-and-forth on different settings, but especially the white balance.
There were several times that we said, “This is it,” only to modify something the next day.
A problem we encountered is that Ektar can have several different looks, even from the same roll of film.
There was a discussion about creating as many as three different recipes, depending on the exact aesthetic we wanted to recreate, but decided to go with just one recipe, modeled after our favorite pictures from Thomas’ Ektar film.
After even more back-and-forth we finished with this recipe here. We feel confident that it is as close as we could get to actual Ektar film, acknowledging that it’s very close but not exactly right.
The original Ektar recipe isn’t an exact match to the film, and I believe that this new recipe is closer. The two recipes each produce a different look, and perhaps they both have a place, depending on what exact aesthetic you are after.
This new recipe was a collaborative effort, and I want to give a special “thank you” to Thomas Schwab for all of the time and effort he put into making this a reality. It’s much appreciated!
This Kodak Ektar 100 film simulation recipe is intended for and only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4. It uses Clarity, which slows down the camera considerably. I just allow the pause to slow myself down. Another option, which is what Fujifilm recommends, is to add Clarity later by reprocessing the RAW file in-camera or with X RAW Studio.
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: +1
Shadow: -2
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: 0
Clarity: +3
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: 6050K, +3 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new Kodak Ektar 100 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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I don’t know how closely it matches Ekta 100 but it’s a beautiful colour recipe.
It doesn’t match Ektar completely, and it depends on the exact Ektar aesthetic you’re talking about, but it looks pretty interesting nonetheless. Thank you!
some shot is spot on, you’ve made a great work!
Thank you!
Man, you are just a genius!
Thanks! It was definitely a joint effort.
Very beautiful colors, I think, the original simulation has too deep shadows.
Thanks! It’s appreciated!
May be here is the right place to remember you for the request for Ricoh Positive Effect. After some cameras has Clarity and Color Chrome Effect Blue this can help.
I need to see if I can. It seems a bit kodak-esque from the samples I’ve seen.
Really excellent work, respect! maybe when you have time try to create the Panavision look of the 70-80ies (example)
the Movie “Lethal Weapon 1” from 87 has a nice Vibe, but maybe it just works with DaVinci & CO, but what I see here from your works/passion is a lot possible come out of the cam 🙂
Thanks so much! Sounds like a good excuse to watch Lethal Weapon again!
This is a great film recipe! Really good looking, i have never used Ektar film but from this simulation, even if its not 100%, i can see why they brought it back!
Thank you for your efforts on all the recipes.
I’m glad that you like it!
White Balance: 6050K, +3 Red & 0 Blue!
is it correct? there is no 6050K on X-T30!
maybe white balance setting is different on X100V. Right?
then how to achieve this look on X-T30(except clarity & color chrome blue)?
Thx for your efforts.
The X100V (as well as the X-Pro3, X-T4 and X-S10) can adjust WB by 0010 increments, so it can, in fact, be set to 6050K. The X-T30 cannot.
The closest on the X-T30 is going to be 6000K +3R & 0B, Highlight +2, Shadow -1, disregard CCEB and Clarity. It won’t be exactly the same, but that’s as close as you’ll get, I think.
Thx a lot. i’ll try it.
You are welcome!
maybe they should hire more people like you to implement this idea and to perfect this method to the point where similars stimulation we set on the camera can directly transfer to the raw, so we can use it as a base. That way Fuji will make it big, ur a genius bro.
I already love the x100v, but i m thinking to go w leica m10p for my everyday camera, then here is Richie. Brilliant bro! Make it way too fun to shoot and careless the process and edit part.
I appreciate the kind words! I would love to work for Fujifilm someday. Don’t know what the process is, but I do know it’s a small team. Thanks for the comment and encouragement!
any suggestions for how to adapt this to a trans iii like xt2?
It’s definitely not going to look the same since you don’t have Color Chrome Effect, Color Chrome FX Blue and Clarity. But… try DR100, Sharpness +2 and White Balance will need to be 6100K or 6000K, I’m not certain which, but try 6100K first.
I’ve shot hundreds rolls of Ektar100, the problem with film is- it looks with every camera quite a bit different. The only picture that has some Ektar-Flavor in this article is the top picture, “Dock Light”.
But honestly, it looks more like Fujifilm160NS
So much depends on the camera, plus how it is shot, developed and scanned or printed. One film can vary wildly.
For this recipe, literally a film camera loaded with Ektar and a Fujifilm X camera were placed side-by-side and captured the same subject at the same moment.
Myself and Thomas Schwab worked really hard on this one, trying absolutely everything in our quest to get it as close to “right” as possible. It’s amazing how close we came! But, we also recognized that it’s not perfect.
It’s not vibrant enough as +6 Color is really necessary, but isn’t an option, unfortunately. I would love to get closer to the film, but I just don’t think it’s possible–this is as accurate as one can get on Fujifilm X JPEGs.
As far as Fujicolor 160NS, I think Pro Neg. Hi is a much closer starting point than Classic Chrome. Obviously this recipe is much too warm, unless one was using a warming filter or had a radioactive-coated lens. And too much contrast, too.
Again, there are so many variables, and it’s difficult to nail down exactly what one film “looks like”. That’s obviously a pretty big challenge, but I’m always trying to get the general feeling “right” if I can.
I appreciate your input. Thank you for the comment!
When you say that one recipe or another is not exactly like the film, I think you may be overthinking this. Nationwide variations in processing (including the water used) contribute more to the variations than the tweaks you are doing ‘to make it more like the film’.
Someone in San Francisco regularly using and processing a given film would notice differences if he had that film processed in Miami or London, Cairo or Tokyo.
That’s a great point. Even the temperature of the water and chemicals makes a difference, or how “fresh” or “used” they are. There are so many variables. Thanks for the comment!
Hello Ritchie,
I discovered you last week.
Your work is GREAT.
I photographed all weekend with several simulations … I was bored in digital photography but since then I have regained pleasure with my X-S10.
I like landscape photography and I have a question: can we always use a polarized filter with all simulations?
PS : sorry for my english.
Hello from Belgium
David.
I appreciate your kindness!
Great question. It’s definitely fine to use a polarizing filter in conjunction with the recipes.
Take care!
Hi Ritchie. I’m trying to emulate this Ektar 100 from https://images.app.goo.gl/4ejLpT5A3WyyQu2S6 on my X-E3. I used your recipe as base, H:1 S:0. I then chose Astia, it matches the skin tones; but the blues 😭.
It’s definitely a challenge. In this case (as was common) the film was overexposed, because color negative film had a much greater tolerance to overexposure than underexposure (kind of the opposite of digital).
I find that Classic Chrome has the right color palette in general but is not vibrant enough. The other film sims don’t have the right color palette, but Astia, Velvia, Provia, Pro Neg Hi potentially are capable of enough vibrancy. I’ll take a look. Thanks for the suggestion!
I think you are correct here, you can get the vibrancy with Astia & pro Neg Hi. Currently testing against a roll of Ektar that was taken this past weekend. I was wondering if you had tried Eterna as a base as well?
Eterna doesn’t have anywhere near the vibrancy, but Nostalgic Neg. is a possibility….
With the added blues on Version 5 of the sensor, should be possible with Nostalgic Negative. Or desirable 😛
I’m not sure that the blue will help it. Nostalgic Neg. might have enough vibrancy, plus the ability to resemble Kodak negative colors, for it to be somewhat possible. But I think it’s a stretch. The Kodak Negative Recipe is along the lines of what’s possible.
You can see the potential, but also the shortcoming.
Been liking this one since I got my X-Pro3. I think autumn in New England might be a little too intense for this, and I tapped slightly on the WB from 6050K, +3 Red, 0 Blue to 5990K, +2 Red, 0 Blue. Still a lovely warm film, really capturing the color of the season.
Awesome! It’s always ok to “season to taste” any recipe. I appreciate the tip!
I used this recipe today and loved it! I bought a roll of this film but unfortunately the camera is now broken so could not compare the film and the simulation. What a great excuse to have to buy another camera 👍
I’m so glad that you liked it! 😀
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