Sustainable clothing: challenges, barriers and interventions for encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour
可持续服装：鼓励更可持续消费行为的挑战、障碍和干预措施

Sustainability, clothing, consumers and behaviour change.
可持续性、服装、消费者和行为改变。

Fiona Harris, ISM-Open, The Open University Business School, The Open University, Walton Hall, Milton Keynes MK7 6AA, UK
Fiona Harris，ISM-Open，开放大学商学院，开放大学，沃尔顿霍尔，米尔顿凯恩斯 MK7 6AA，英国

E-mail: Fiona.Harris@open.ac.uk
电子邮件：Fiona.Harris@open.ac.uk

doi: ijcs. 12257

Sustainable clothing has been described as 'clothing which incorporates one or more aspects of social and environmental sustainability, such as Fair Trade manufacturing or fabric containing organically-grown raw material' (Goworek et al., 2012, p. 938), but how consumers subsequently care for and dispose of clothing also contributes to its environmental impact. Up to of the energy consumption associated with an item of clothing is attributable to its post-purchase laundering (Fletcher, 2008), billion worth of UK consumers' clothes are unworn and a third of clothing goes to landfill in the UK (WRAP, 2012). Yet even consumers committed to sustainable clothing lack awareness of the sustainability issues in clothing care, with their interpretation of sustainable clothing limited to purchasing (Bly et al., 2015).
可持续服装被描述为“服装中融入了社会和环境可持续性的一个或多个方面，例如公平贸易制造或含有有机原材料的面料”（Goworek 等，2012 年，第 938 页），但消费者随后如何照料和处理服装也会影响其环境影响。与服装相关的能源消耗高达 归因于购买后的洗涤（Fletcher，2008 年），英国消费者价值 十亿英镑的服装未穿过，英国有三分之一的服装被填埋（WRAP，2012 年）。然而，即使是致力于可持续服装的消费者也缺乏对服装护理中的可持续性问题的认识，他们对可持续服装的理解仅限于购买（Bly 等，2015 年）。

This article, in contrast to previous research with consumers, contributes to the literature by harnessing the experience of expert researchers, consultants and practitioners from the clothing industry to propose ways forward to encourage more sustainable consumer clothing behaviour. The aims are: (i) to identify the challenges that need to be addressed and the associated barriers for sustainable clothing; and (ii) to propose interventions to encourage more sustainable consumer behaviour in the purchase, care and disposal of clothing. The article draws on ideas from both commercial and social marketing, applying marketing techniques for social as well as commercial ends to achieve behaviour change (Hastings and Domegan, 2014).
本文与以往针对消费者的研究形成对比，通过利用专家研究人员、顾问和服装行业从业者的经验，为文献贡献了内容，提出了鼓励更可持续消费者服装行为的前进方式。其目标是：(i) 确定需要解决的挑战以及可持续服装的相关障碍；(ii) 提出干预措施，鼓励消费者在购买、护理和处理服装时更具可持续性的行为。本文借鉴了商业和社会营销的理念，应用营销技术来实现行为改变（Hastings 和 Domegan，2014）。

Consumers can have a considerable impact in improving clothing sustainability (Claudio, 2007). Trends that involve more sustainable purchase behaviour include: vintage shopping among teenagers (Hardy, 2013), DIY fashion (i.e. self-sewn fashion) (Walliker, 2006) and 'trashion - fashion made out of trash' (Claudio, cited in an interview with Aheam, 2011). Another trend is 'slow fashion' (a term reportedly coined by the fashion writer Angela Murrills), which references local cultural traditions in the modern search for authenticity, provides greater transparency in production and engenders emotional as well as economic investment (Clark, 2008). Cutting back on shopping has also been noted, as a response to disillusionment with seeking happiness through consumption (McNay, 2010). Finally, consumers who focus on stylishness (enduring but individual style) rather than fashion are significantly more likely to purchase environmental clothing and dispose of their clothing sustainably (Cho et al., 2015).
消费者在改善服装可持续性方面可以产生相当大的影响（Claudio，2007）。涉及更可持续购买行为的趋势包括：青少年之间的复古购物（Hardy，2013），DIY 时尚（即自制时尚）（Walliker，2006）和“垃圾时尚 - 用垃圾制成的时尚”（Claudio，引用自 2011 年与 Aheam 的采访）。另一个趋势是“慢时尚”（据报道是时尚作家 Angela Murrills 创造的术语），它参考了当代对真实性的追求中的本地文化传统，提供了更大的生产透明度，并产生了情感和经济投资（Clark，2008）。还有人注意到减少购物，作为对通过消费寻求幸福的幻灭的回应（McNay，2010）。最后，专注于时尚（持久但个性化的风格）而不是时尚的消费者更有可能购买环保服装并可持续地处理他们的服装（Cho 等，2015）。

The care phase of the clothing lifecycle has the largest overall negative impact on the environment (Fletcher, 2008). Consumers can increase the sustainability of their clothing by: laundering less frequently; ensuring the washing machine is fully loaded (WRAP, 2012); washing at lower temperatures with appropriate detergents; extending the life of their clothes; buying fewer but longer-lasting clothes; and recycling clothing (Claudio, 2007). Increasing consumers' awareness of the clothing lifecycle and its impacts has been described as 'the best hope for sustainability in the fashion industry' (Claudio, 2007,
服装生命周期的护理阶段对环境产生了最大的整体负面影响（Fletcher，2008）。消费者可以通过以下方式提高他们的服装可持续性：减少洗涤频率；确保洗衣机装满（WRAP，2012）；使用适当的洗涤剂以较低的温度洗涤；延长服装的使用寿命；购买更少但更持久的服装；以及回收服装（Claudio，2007）。提高消费者对服装生命周期及其影响的意识被描述为“时尚产业可持续性的最大希望”（Claudio，2007）。
p. A454). Indeed, raising consumers' awareness about clothing sustainability issues can subsequently alter their behaviour, with laundering behaviour more amenable to change than purchasing behaviour (Goworek et al., 2012).
事实上，提高消费者对服装可持续性问题的意识可以随后改变他们的行为，洗涤行为比购买行为更容易改变（Goworek 等，2012）。

The manner of clothing disposal also impacts on its sustainability. A substantial amount of 'latent waste' results from consumers hoarding clothes that they do not wear (e.g. Morley et al., 2006). While cheap fashionable clothes are not kept long (either because they are low quality, become unfashionable or were bought for a one-off occasion), more expensive items tend to be kept longer, even if they are not worn (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007). A study of young female consumers revealed that most disposed of wearable items through charity shops, with the rest consigned to landfill (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007; Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009); they lacked awareness of clothing recycling options and raising awareness to encourage recycling was recommended. However, in a study of female textile and apparel students in the US, Joung and Park-Poaps (2013) found that even when aware of clothing recycling options, young consumers might still choose to discard their unwanted clothes. They concluded that recycling behaviour needed to be established as family norms during early childhood. However, reuse is preferable to recycling in terms of carbon dioxide impacts, partly because the application of treatments to the base textiles and decorative embellishments can make recycling difficult (Morely et al., 2006).
服装处理方式也会影响其可持续性。大量“潜在废物”来自于消费者囤积他们不穿的衣服（例如 Morley 等，2006 年）。便宜时尚的衣服通常不会保存很久（要么是因为质量低，要么是因为不再时尚，或者是为了一次性场合购买的），而更昂贵的物品往往会保存更长时间，即使不穿（Birtwistle 和 Moore，2007 年）。一项针对年轻女性消费者的研究表明，大多数人通过慈善商店处理可穿的物品，其余则被送往填埋场（Birtwistle 和 Moore，2007 年；Morgan 和 Birtwistle，2009 年）；他们缺乏对服装回收选择的意识，建议提高意识以鼓励回收。然而，在一项针对美国女性纺织品和服装专业学生的研究中，Joung 和 Park-Poaps（2013 年）发现，即使了解了服装回收选择，年轻消费者仍可能选择丢弃他们不想要的衣服。他们得出结论，回收行为需要在儿童早期建立为家庭规范。 然而，从二氧化碳影响的角度来看，重复使用比回收更可取，部分原因是对基础纺织品和装饰物进行处理可能会使回收变得困难（Morely 等，2006 年）。

In the sections that follow the factors affecting sustainable clothing behaviour and barriers to more sustainable consumer behaviour identified in previous research are reviewed, concluding with some interventions suggested in the literature for addressing these.
在接下来的部分中，回顾了先前研究中确定的影响可持续服装行为和阻碍更可持续消费者行为的因素，最后提出了一些文献中建议用于解决这些问题的干预措施。

While clothing has been classified as a basic human need (Maslow, 1943), for many people clothing choices are motivated by their need for identity (Max-Neef, 1992) and esteem (Maslow, 1943). Consumers construct their social definition through the meanings encoded in their clothing choices (Dodd et al., 2000). This has been reported across different age groups. For teenagers, clothing is 'an essential social tool' that provides a means of self-expression, source of confidence and a key to judging other people they encounter (Piacentini and Mailer, 2004, p. 251). Among a broader age spectrum of consumers, clothing plays a key role in self-expression and is an important lifestyle product (Michaelidou and Dibb, 2006). Changes in technology have fuelled 'fast fashion' - the feeding of trend data into production to enable rapid and frequent turnover of affordable fashion, with refreshed styles and shelf-life reduced in some cases to only a few weeks (Sull and Turconi, 2008). The short availability of clothing items elicits a loss aversion reaction in consumers and stimulates buying (Byun and Sternquist, 2012). Fast fashion has also shifted the 'quality vs. quantity' trade-off. Young consumers prefer making multiple cheaper purchases to buying one more expensive item (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009).
尽管服装被归类为基本的人类需求（马斯洛，1943 年），但对许多人来说，服装选择是由他们对身份（马克斯-尼夫，1992 年）和尊重（马斯洛，1943 年）的需求驱动的。消费者通过他们的服装选择中编码的含义构建他们的社会定义（多德等，2000 年）。这已经报道在不同年龄组中。对于青少年来说，服装是“一种必不可少的社交工具”，提供了一种自我表达的方式，是自信的来源，也是评判他们遇到的其他人的关键（皮亚琴蒂尼和梅勒，2004 年，第 251 页）。在更广泛的消费者年龄范围内，服装在自我表达中发挥着关键作用，是一种重要的生活方式产品（迈克利多和迪布，2006 年）。技术的变化推动了“快时尚” - 将潮流数据输入生产，以实现快速和频繁的廉价时尚周转，刷新风格，有时甚至只有几周的货架寿命（萨尔和图尔科尼，2008 年）。服装项目的短期可用性引发了消费者的损失规避反应，并刺激购买（Byun 和 Sternquist，2012 年）。快时尚也改变了“质量与数量”之间的权衡。 年轻消费者更喜欢进行多次较便宜的购买，而不是购买一个更昂贵的物品（Morgan 和 Birtwistle，2009 年）。

Rising affluence and lower prices have also fuelled clothing consumption (Morley et al., 2006), including in emerging economies like India, where global fashions are beginning to replace traditional dress and clothes shopping increasingly is seen as a pleasurable activity and an ingredient of self-identity (Rajput et al., 2012). The media also stimulates the desire for new fashions (Claudio, 2007). Alongside celebrities fashion media heavily influence the fashion purchasing behaviour of fashion innovator consumers, who buy impulsively and seek self-gratification through shopping (Birtwistle and Moore, 2006).
不断增长的富裕和更低的价格也推动了服装消费（Morley 等，2006 年），包括在印度等新兴经济体，全球时尚开始取代传统服装，购物逐渐被视为一种愉悦活动和自我认同的一部分（Rajput 等，2012 年）。媒体也刺激了对新时尚的渴望（Claudio，2007 年）。与名人时尚媒体一起，时尚创新者消费者的时尚购买行为受到了重大影响，他们冲动购买并通过购物寻求自我满足（Birtwistle 和 Moore，2006 年）。

Clothing purchases are mainly influenced by price, quality and style, with price being considered more important than ethical issues by of shoppers despite awareness of child labour (Iwanow et al., 2005). Among American consumers, intentions to purchase environmentally friendly apparel are strongly influenced by social pressure and concern for the environment and moderately influenced by guilt and knowledge about environmentally friendly apparel (Cowan and Kinley, 2014). Even among environmentally aware consumers, clothing purchases are largely determined by economic and personal considerations, while disposal behaviours are driven primarily by habits and routines (Goworek et al., 2012). In another study, Bly et al. (2015) reported that sustainable fashion adherents' behaviour was motivated by both positive desires such as Szmigin and Carrigan's (2005) notion of 'ethical hedonism' and negative emotions like the mistrust and scepticism of large corporate brands reported by Kozinets and Handelman (2004).
服装购买主要受价格、质量和风格的影响，尽管购物者中有 认识到童工问题，但价格被认为比道德问题更重要（Iwanow 等人，2005 年）。在美国消费者中，购买环保服装的意图受到社会压力和对环境的关注的强烈影响，而受到对环保服装的罪恶感和知识的中等影响（Cowan 和 Kinley，2014 年）。即使在环保意识较高的消费者中，服装购买主要受经济和个人考虑的影响，而处理行为主要受习惯和日常规律的驱使（Goworek 等人，2012 年）。在另一项研究中，Bly 等人（2015 年）报告称，可持续时尚的拥护者行为受到积极愿望的驱使，比如 Szmigin 和 Carrigan（2005 年）提出的“道德享乐主义”，以及对大型公司品牌的不信任和怀疑（Kozinets 和 Handelman，2004 年）所报告的消极情绪。

Hiller Connell (2010) reported a scarcity of research about the barriers to sustainable clothing consumption, categorizing previously identified barriers in her review as either internal or external. Internal barriers - those relating to consumers themselves - included a lack of concern for the environment among consumers (based on Stephens, 1985; Shim, 1995; Hustvedt and Dickson, 2009); limited knowledge about clothing consumption's impact on the environment (Stephens, 1985; Kim and Damhorst, 1998); negative attitudes towards sustainable clothing (based on Hustvedt and Dickson, 2009) and demographic characteristics, such as age and education (based on Stephens, 1985). Other barriers she noted, which might also be categorized as internal were motivation (based on Lipsey, 1977), values (based on Axelrod, 1994; Grunert and Juhl, 1995; Blake, 2001), locus of control (based on Tanner, 1999) and perceived time and effort (based on Lipsey, 1977; Ellen, 1994). External barriers - those independent of consumers included the price of sustainable clothing (based on Hines and Swinker, 1996; Hustvedt and Dickson, 2009) and also a lack of infrastructure (based on Lipsey, 1977). Other barriers identified in Hiller Connell's (2010) review were social and cultural norms (based on Hines et al., 1986-1987). Taken together, this body of literature suggests that interventions are needed at not only the level of individual consumers but also at the social and cultural level and within the clothing industry.
希勒·康奈尔（2010 年）报告了关于可持续服装消费障碍的研究稀缺，将她在评论中分类的先前确定的障碍归类为内部或外部。内部障碍 - 与消费者自身有关的障碍 - 包括消费者对环境缺乏关注（基于斯蒂芬斯，1985 年；Shim，1995 年；Hustvedt 和 Dickson，2009 年）；对服装消费对环境影响的知识有限（斯蒂芬斯，1985 年；Kim 和 Damhorst，1998 年）；对可持续服装持负面态度（基于 Hustvedt 和 Dickson，2009 年）以及人口特征，如年龄和教育（基于斯蒂芬斯，1985 年）。她指出的其他障碍，也可能被归类为内部的是动机（基于 Lipsey，1977 年），价值观（基于 Axelrod，1994 年；Grunert 和 Juhl，1995 年；Blake，2001 年），控制力（基于 Tanner，1999 年）以及时间和努力的感知（基于 Lipsey，1977 年；Ellen，1994 年）。外部障碍 - 与消费者无关的障碍包括可持续服装的价格（基于 Hines 和 Swinker，1996 年；Hustvedt 和 Dickson，2009 年）以及基础设施的缺乏（基于 Lipsey，1977 年）。 Hiller Connell（2010）的评论中确定的其他障碍是社会和文化规范（基于 Hines 等人，1986-1987）。总的来说，这一文献体系表明，干预措施不仅需要在个体消费者层面上进行，还需要在社会和文化层面以及服装行业内部进行。

Hiller Connell's (2010) own research with male and female consumers identified the following internal barriers: a lack of knowledge and/or miscomprehension about the environmental effects of production and different fibres; and negative perceptions of sustainable clothing as less stylish, less well-fitting and less comfortable. The external barriers she identified included:
希勒·康奈尔（2010）对男性和女性消费者进行的研究确定了以下内部障碍：对生产和不同纤维的环境影响缺乏知识和/或误解；以及对可持续服装的负面看法，认为其风格不够时尚，不够合身，不够舒适。她确定的外部障碍包括：
limited availability of sustainable clothing outlets; restricted styles (in particular a lack of business wear and footwear); limited availability of desired sizes and fit; lack of financial resources to buy more expensive sustainable clothing; poor presentation of clothing in second-hand shops; and social expectations regarding conventions of dress for different professions (Hiller Connell, 2010). This is consistent with the view of sustainable clothing or ethical fashion consisting almost exclusively of casual wear such as T-shirts and not reflecting broader choices for other lifestyles, such as formal wear (Beard, 2009).
可持续服装门店的供应有限；款式受限（尤其是商务服装和鞋类的缺乏）；所需尺码和合身度的供应有限；缺乏购买更昂贵可持续服装的财力；二手店中服装陈列不佳；以及社会对不同职业着装规范的期望（Hiller Connell，2010）。这与可持续服装或道德时尚几乎完全由休闲服装（如 T 恤）组成，而不反映其他生活方式的更广泛选择，如正式服装（Beard，2009）的观点一致。

More recent research supports Hiller Connell's analysis. Similar findings were reported by McNeill and Moore (2015), with 'self'oriented consumers being preoccupied with price and time-limited availability of items, 'social'-oriented consumers deterred by lack of awareness, a perceived lack of social acceptability and high price and 'sacrifice'-oriented consumers being sceptical of industry motives. Others have also found that sustainability has to compete against other powerful motivations, which influence disposal behaviour. Examples include concern for saving money motivating the resale or reuse of clothing and convenience motivating discarding of clothing (Joung and Park-Poaps, 2013).
较近期的研究支持希勒·康奈尔的分析。麦克尼尔和摩尔（2015）也报告了类似的发现，即“自我”取向的消费者关注价格和商品的限时可用性，“社交”取向的消费者受到缺乏意识、社会可接受性不足和高价格的阻碍，“牺牲”取向的消费者对行业动机持怀疑态度。其他人也发现，可持续性必须与其他强大的动机竞争，这些动机影响着处理行为。例如，对节省金钱的关注促使人们重新销售或重复使用服装，而便利性促使人们丢弃服装（Joung 和 Park-Poaps，2013）。

Consumer uncertainty about knowledge, evaluation and choice has been found to contribute to ethical compromises among ethical consumers when purchasing clothing (Hassan et al., 2012). While information is widely available online about how to extend the life of clothing, it is arguably more difficult for consumers to assess the quality and durability of clothing at the point of purchase. Goworek et al. (2012) reported that consumers tended to gauge clothing quality by its feel and the brand.
消费者对知识、评估和选择的不确定性被发现会导致道德消费者在购买服装时做出道德妥协（Hassan 等，2012 年）。虽然关于如何延长服装寿命的信息在网上广泛可得，但消费者在购买时评估服装的质量和耐久性可能更加困难。Goworek 等人（2012 年）报告称，消费者倾向于通过服装的手感和品牌来评估服装质量。

Fast fashion poses two forms of barriers to the longevity of clothing. First, obsolescence is built into fast fashion clothing (Claudio, cited in an interview by Ahearn, 2011), limiting its usable life. Second, fast fashion as well as generating less durable clothes, diminishes the viability of the second-hand clothing market, by reducing the price gap between new and old garments (Morley et al., 2006). Limited choice and fashionability have also been implicated in the low association between the Ethical Consumer magazine subscribers' intention and behaviour for sweatshop-free clothing purchase (Hassan et al., in press). Clothing needs to be fit for use; for consumers to not only choose but also wear clothing items, sustainable offerings must meet their needs for different types of clothes, fulfil various uses and offer appropriate features.
快时尚对服装的长寿性构成两种障碍。首先，快时尚服装中内置了过时性（Claudio 在 Ahearn 的采访中引用，2011 年），限制了其可用寿命。其次，快时尚不仅生产出耐用性较差的服装，还通过减少新旧服装之间的价格差距，削弱了二手服装市场的可行性（Morley 等人，2006 年）。有限的选择和时尚性也被认为是导致《道德消费者》杂志订阅者对无血汗工厂服装购买意图和行为之间低关联的因素（Hassan 等人，即将发表）。服装需要适合使用；为了消费者不仅选择而且穿着服装，可持续的产品必须满足他们对不同类型服装的需求，满足各种用途并提供适当的功能。

A number of suggestions have been put forward for overcoming such barriers, including: better information about the sustainable clothing and their availability (Markkula and Moisander, 2012), compulsory eco-labelling and improved design and marketing to meet consumers' needs (Hiller Connell, 2010). However, the evidence suggests that labelling may offer a supplementary, rather than leading communication mechanism for sustainability information. In Scotland, of shoppers did not look at the label at all when buying clothes and a further looked only infrequently (Iwanow et al., 2005). In Finland, mature female consumers examined the care labels carefully, but primarily to avoid garments that required dry-cleaning, although they were also occasionally influenced by the country of origin, as Finnish brands were considered safer and more ethical (Holmlund et al., 2011). Clearly, action to encourage sustainability through a combination of interventions is likely to be needed.
已提出许多建议以克服这些障碍，包括：提供更好的关于可持续服装及其可获得性的信息（Markkula 和 Moisander，2012 年），强制性的生态标识以及改进设计和营销以满足消费者的需求（Hiller Connell，2010 年）。然而，证据表明，标识可能提供一种补充性的，而不是主导性的可持续性信息传播机制。在苏格兰， 的购物者在购买衣服时根本不看标签，另外 只偶尔看一下（Iwanow 等，2005 年）。在芬兰，成熟的女性消费者仔细查看护理标签，但主要是为了避免需要干洗的服装，尽管有时也会受到原产国的影响，因为芬兰品牌被认为更安全和更具道德性（Holmlund 等，2011 年）。显然，通过一系列干预措施鼓励可持续性行动可能是必要的。

In summary, factors that affect sustainable clothing behaviour include the role of clothing in self-expression, changes in technology, rising affluence and lower prices, while barriers include competing consumer motivations, lack of information, consumption and obsolescence pressures created by the clothing industry and the limited range of sustainable clothing on offer. Barriers were revealed at an individual level, at a social and cultural level and within the clothing industry. Stimulating environmentally responsible behaviour may, therefore, require changes in the dominant social paradigm (Kilbourne et al., 2002), defined as 'the values, metaphysical beliefs, institutions, habits, etc. that collectively provide social lenses through which individuals and groups interpret their social world' (Milbrath, 1984, p. 7). While small segments of consumers may rebel against the dominant social paradigm, the majority may feel constrained in their clothing behaviours and need interventions to help them improve the sustainability of their behaviours. Our research acknowledges the necessity of tackling this paradigm and shows the potential for using behaviour change techniques such as social marketing. Drawing on interviews conducted with a range of experts in sustainable clothing, we identify the challenges of what needs to be done and the associated barriers to doing it and propose potential interventions to help encourage more sustainable purchase, care and disposal behaviour.
总的来说，影响可持续服装行为的因素包括服装在自我表达中的作用、技术变化、日益富裕和价格下降，而障碍包括竞争性消费动机、信息缺乏、服装行业所造成的消费和过时压力，以及可持续服装种类有限。障碍在个人层面、社会文化层面和服装行业内部都有体现。因此，激励环保行为可能需要改变主导社会范式（Kilbourne 等，2002 年），即被定义为“价值观、形而上学信仰、制度、习惯等共同构成的社会透镜，通过这些透镜，个人和群体解释他们的社会世界”（Milbrath，1984 年，第 7 页）。虽然少数消费者可能反抗主导社会范式，但大多数人可能感到在服装行为上受到限制，需要干预措施帮助他们改善行为的可持续性。 我们的研究承认解决这一范式的必要性，并展示了利用行为改变技术（如社会营销）的潜力。借鉴与可持续服装领域的一系列专家进行的访谈，我们确定了需要做的事情以及做这些事情所面临的障碍，并提出了潜在的干预措施，以帮助鼓励更多可持续的购买、护理和处理行为。

Ten semi-structured key informant interviews were conducted with a variety of experts in the field to reflect a range of stakeholder perspectives and integrated with previous research to derive interventions, adding to the internal validity of the study. An accepted and flexible exploratory research method was used (Silverman, 2009), allowing access to the experiences and insights of individuals who could describe their perspective on particular issues. A purposive sampling approach (Neuman, 2000) was used to identify the key informants. These consisted of five academics, two specialist consultants and three retailers. All had sustainable fashion expertise, either from involvement in seminal research or publications, or because their retailing or manufacturing activities involved innovative approaches to improve social and environmental sustainability. Although the sample size is small, it is comparable to other research in this niche area (see for example, Bly et al., 2015; McNeill and Moore, 2015) and complements the existing literature conducted with consumers. Characteristics of the key informants are indicated in Table 1.
进行了十次半结构化的关键访谈，与该领域的各类专家合作，以反映各利益相关者的不同观点，并结合先前的研究得出干预措施，增加了研究的内部有效性。采用了一种被接受且灵活的探索性研究方法（Silverman，2009），使得可以接触到那些能够描述他们对特定问题看法的个人的经验和见解。采用了目的性抽样方法（Neuman，2000）来确定关键访谈对象。这些对象包括五名学者、两名专业顾问和三名零售商。所有这些人都具有可持续时尚方面的专业知识，要么是因为参与了开创性研究或出版，要么是因为他们的零售或制造活动采用了创新方法来改善社会和环境的可持续性。尽管样本量较小，但与该领域的其他研究（例如，Bly 等，2015；McNeill 和 Moore，2015）相当，并且与已有的与消费者进行的文献相辅相成。关键访谈对象的特征见表 1。

The interview topic guide addressed key challenges and priorities in relation to sustainable clothing, industry awareness, the interests and power of different stakeholders and consumer awareness and attitudes. Current measures to increase sustainability, including the use of materials, manufacturing processes, labelling, packaging and disposal were also considered, as was
采访主题指南涉及可持续服装、行业意识、不同利益相关者的利益和权力以及消费者意识和态度方面的关键挑战和优先事项。还考虑了增加可持续性的当前措施，包括材料的使用、制造过程、标签、包装和处理方式。

Table 1 Key informant characteristics
表 1 关键信息者特征

the role of policy, regulation and legislation. The interview guide is tabulated in the Appendix.
政策、监管和立法的作用。访谈指南见附录。

Interview transcripts and notes were content-analysed and coded (Miles and Huberman, 1994) in order to identify themes in the data. The initial coding was carried out by one researcher then checked by two other members of the team. The analytic strategy involved an iterative approach (Corbin and Strauss, 2008), reflecting on each interview as it was undertaken through a process of gradual explanation building (Yin, 2009).
采访记录和笔记进行了内容分析和编码（Miles 和 Huberman，1994），以便识别数据中的主题。初始编码由一名研究人员进行，然后由团队的另外两名成员检查。分析策略采用了迭代方法（Corbin 和 Strauss，2008），通过逐步解释构建的过程对每次采访进行反思（Yin，2009）。

The reliability of qualitative research concerns whether the data are plausible, and the extent to which findings are consistent with 'divergent' sources of information (Neuman, 1997, p. 368). Interviewing a range of informants with different perspectives helped such convergence to be achieved (Yin, 2009). Complementing the interview data with documentary evidence that included research project reports, press coverage and government publications (Denzin and Lincoln, 1998) allowed a rich picture to be developed and enabled triangulation and verification of the results. The quotations used to illustrate the findings are anonymized and categorized by type of key informant, with a number assigned to each participant type to signify separate contributions.
定性研究的可靠性涉及数据是否可信，以及研究结果与“不同”信息来源的一致程度（Neuman，1997，第 368 页）。与具有不同观点的各种消息人士进行访谈有助于实现这种收敛（Yin，2009）。将访谈数据与包括研究项目报告、新闻报道和政府出版物在内的文献证据相结合（Denzin 和 Lincoln，1998）可以绘制出丰富的画面，并实现结果的三角测量和验证。用于说明研究结果的引用是匿名的，并按照关键消息人士的类型进行分类，为每种参与者类型分配一个编号以表示不同的贡献。

Although there are segments of consumers who are concerned about the social and environmental impact of their consumption practices, the interviews suggest that providing sustainable clothing options alone would not drive the necessary changes in consumers' clothing purchase, care and disposal behaviour. There are several reasons for this finding.
尽管有一部分消费者关注其消费行为对社会和环境的影响，但采访显示，仅提供可持续服装选择并不能推动消费者在购买、护理和处理服装方面所需的变革。这一发现有几个原因。

First, clothing sustainability is very complex and consumers lack knowledge and understanding:
首先，服装的可持续性非常复杂，消费者缺乏知识和理解：

'If we wait for consumers to start raising issues about cotton or about polyester or about working conditions in a dye house, we could be waiting a very long time because they don't have a clear understanding of the textile industry' (Retailer 2). A consultant explained: 'It's very hard for the consumer to think what is it that I'm purchasing, what does that mean, if I'm purchasing something that is cheaper, does that mean that then the farmer that collected the cotton is less well off, I'm actually harming him rather than anything else (Consultant 1 ).
如果我们等待消费者开始提出关于棉花、涤纶或染料厂工作条件的问题，我们可能要等很长时间，因为他们对纺织行业没有清晰的了解（零售商 2）。一位顾问解释说：“对于消费者来说，很难想到我购买的是什么，这意味着什么，如果我购买的东西更便宜，那是否意味着采集棉花的农民生活更差，我实际上是在伤害他而不是其他什么（顾问 1）。
Second, consumers are diverse in their concerns. It would be impracticable to try to engage all consumers in the wide range of sustainability issues involved in the clothing production and supply chain, owing to their differing preoccupations:
第二，消费者在关注方面存在多样性。由于他们关注的事项各不相同，试图让所有消费者参与涉及服装生产和供应链的广泛可持续性问题是不切实际的。

'Consumers will come at these things from different angles. Some will be very concerned about animal welfare and whether or not they'll use clothes that have leather or whatever. Others will be more into knowing that their clothes are sweatshop-free or child labour free, and others are concerned about the environment'. (Consultant 2). Third, clothing is not an altruistic purchase. Sustainability was low down in consumers' purchase decision criteria. As a retailer remarked: 'You're going to have to do a lot of work on the consumer to change their mindset for that [sustainability] to come to the fore' (Retailer 1). Instead, it seems that: 'The decision hierarchy in terms of purchasing and clothing is still about basically do I look good in it, not has it been produced in a good way or what's it made of.' (Retailer 2).
消费者会从不同的角度来看待这些事情。有些人会非常关心动物福利，以及他们是否会穿有皮革等材质的衣服。另一些人更关心他们的衣服是否没有来自血汗工厂或童工的问题，还有一些人关心环境问题。(顾问 2)。第三，购买衣物并不是一种利他主义的行为。可持续性在消费者的购买决策标准中并不重要。一位零售商评论说：“你需要做很多工作来改变消费者的思维，让可持续性成为首要考虑的因素”(零售商 1)。相反，似乎：“在购买和穿着衣物方面的决策层次结构仍然基本上是我穿着好看吗，而不是它是如何生产的或由什么材料制成的”(零售商 2)。

These findings underpin the challenges for sustainable clothing. They also complement previous literature, which indicates that ethical purchases are primarily influenced by information about a company's corporate social responsibility (CSR) position and a customer's personal concern for CSR (Öberseder et al., 2011), consumers downplay the negative effects of their consumption behaviour (Kilbourne and Pickett, 2008) and that clothing purchasing behaviour is driven by economic and personal considerations and disposal behaviour by habits and routines (Goworek et al., 2012).
这些发现支持了可持续服装面临的挑战。它们也补充了先前的文献，表明道德购买主要受到有关公司企业社会责任（CSR）立场的信息以及客户对 CSR 的个人关注的影响（Öberseder 等，2011），消费者淡化了他们消费行为的负面影响（Kilbourne 和 Pickett，2008），服装购买行为受经济和个人考虑的驱动，处理行为受习惯和常规的影响（Goworek 等，2012）。

To encourage more sustainable clothing behaviour, both consumer-focused marketing and behaviour change approaches are needed. The first involves commercial marketing that exhibits 'a sound understanding of customer needs, buying behaviour and the issues influencing the purchasing choices of customers' (Dibb et al., 2012, p. 7). The second involves social marketing, which as noted previously, applies marketing techniques to social problems rather than commercial ends. Sustainable clothing needs additionally to fulfil the core roles that clothing plays and satisfy consumers' clothing needs. In doing so, some reshaping of consumer behaviour and social norms may be required to protect the environment and the well-being of those used in the supply chain. Drawing on the insights from our expert informants, we advance the field by identifying both the challenges of what needs to be done, the associated barriers to
为了鼓励更可持续的服装行为，需要消费者为中心的营销和行为改变方法。第一种方法涉及商业营销，展示“对客户需求、购买行为以及影响客户购买选择的问题有深刻理解”（Dibb 等，2012 年，第 7 页）。第二种方法涉及社会营销，正如之前所指出的，将营销技术应用于社会问题而非商业目的。可持续服装还需要满足服装的核心作用并满足消费者的服装需求。为此，可能需要对消费者行为和社会规范进行一些重塑，以保护环境和供应链中使用的人们的福祉。借鉴我们专家消息人士的见解，我们通过确定需要做什么的挑战以及相关的障碍来推动该领域的发展。

Table 2 Sustainable clothing: challenges, barriers and interventions
表 2 可持续服装：挑战、障碍和干预措施

doing it and suggest interventions for achieving it. A summary of our findings and proposals is provided in Table 2 and discussed in the subsequent subsections.
执行它并提出实现它的干预建议。我们的研究结果和建议摘要见表 2，并在随后的小节中讨论。

Consistent with Table 2, the sections that follow are organized by clothing stage (purchase, care and disposal). Within these stages, the challenges are subheaded and then discussed with reference to the associated barriers identified and each subsection concludes by discussing the interventions proposed to address the challenges and barriers.
与表 2 一致，接下来的部分按服装阶段（购买、护理和处理）进行组织。在这些阶段中，挑战被分为小标题，然后参考已识别的相关障碍进行讨论，每个小节最后讨论了为解决挑战和障碍提出的干预措施。

Clothing has become cheaper and more readily available with both upstream and downstream consequences. Upstream, retailers strive to reduce costs and improve margins. The result is that buyers will change suppliers '...just purely because of price...' (Retailer 1), without necessarily considering the environmental or ethical implications. These practices are perhaps not surprizing when research with consumers highlights their unwillingness to pay more for ethical or sustainable options and the reward packages for buyers are based on finding the cheapest rather than the most ethical or sustainable option. A suggested intervention is to align rewards with ethical and sustainability objectives. All three types of expert informants suggested that legislation might also be required to implement sector-wide ethics and sustainability action and reduce the barrier of cost. Trying to act alone could put individual retailers at a disadvantage, as a consultant explained: 'There's only so much one brand, working on its own can do if nobody else does the same and sells their T-shirts at a fraction of the price because they're not paying their workers very well' (Consultant 2). Downstream, cheaper clothes mean they are not valued and are seen as disposable.
服装变得更便宜且更易获得，带来上下游的后果。在上游，零售商努力降低成本并提高利润率。结果是买家会改变供应商，"...仅仅因为价格..."（零售商 1），而不一定考虑环境或道德影响。当研究发现消费者不愿为道德或可持续选择支付更多费用，买家的奖励方案基于寻找最便宜而不是最道德或可持续的选择时，这些做法也许并不令人惊讶。建议的干预是将奖励与道德和可持续目标对齐。所有三类专家都建议可能需要立法来实施全行业的道德和可持续行动，降低成本障碍。试图独自行动可能会使个别零售商处于不利地位，正如一位顾问解释的那样："如果没有其他人做同样的事情并以低廉的价格出售他们的 T 恤，因为他们付给工人的工资不高，那么一个品牌，独自行动能做的事情就有限"（顾问 2）。 下游，更便宜的衣服意味着它们不被重视，被视为一次性使用。

Interventions are needed to reduce consumers' focus on cost, accentuating other benefits that increase the value of clothes, such as with branded clothing. A brand-focused mindset might encourage consumers to value clothing that embeds sustainability within its branding and values. Previous research has found that clothing purchases are determined primarily by price, quality and style (Iwanow et al., 2005). Increasing the quality and style aspects may compensate for higher price. Additional research would need to be conducted to establish the effects of such interventions. Conversely, research could focus on understanding why consumers are prepared to pay higher prices for brands and value these items more, even though they are made in the same places as high street fashion.
需要进行干预以减少消费者对成本的关注，突出增加服装价值的其他好处，比如品牌服装。品牌为中心的思维方式可能会鼓励消费者重视将可持续性融入品牌和价值观的服装。先前的研究发现，服装购买主要取决于价格、质量和风格（Iwanow 等人，2005 年）。提高质量和风格方面可能会弥补较高价格。需要进行额外研究以确定此类干预的效果。相反，研究可以集中于了解为什么消费者愿意为品牌支付更高的价格，并更加重视这些物品，尽管它们是在与高街时尚相同的地方制造的。

Another key challenge is mainstreaming sustainable clothing: moving it out of its niche and on to the high street, what one academic described as 'The bigger prize for me is the larger market on the high street rather than the niche ethical fashion' (Academic 2). However, key barriers to the mainstreaming of sustainable clothing are the stigma and stereotypes associated
另一个关键挑战是将可持续服装纳入主流：将其从小众市场带到主流市场，正如一位学者所描述的那样：“对我来说，更大的奖励是主流市场而不是小众的道德时尚”（学者 2）。然而，可持续服装主流化的关键障碍是与之相关的污名和刻板印象。
with its design. Unfortunately, 'people still have the perception of ethical clothing as not looking like normal fashion' or looking 'hippyish' (Academic 3), and 'There's still this hemp sack kind of fashion being ethical...' (Academic 1). Just being environmentally friendly will not make people buy sustainable clothing, because 'that's not a primary purchasing motivation' (Consultant 1). Motivations focus on the consumer wanting to 'feel good in the product' (Retailer 1), the product being the right fit, hand feel and colour, not that it is green:
设计。不幸的是，“人们仍然认为道德服装不像正常时尚”或看起来“嬉皮士”（学术 3），还有“仍然存在这种麻袋式的道德时尚……”（学术 1）。仅仅环保并不能让人们购买可持续服装，因为“这不是主要的购买动机”（顾问 1）。动机集中在消费者希望在产品中“感觉良好”（零售商 1），产品合适、手感和颜色，而不是它是绿色的：

'People are going to buy a product because they want it, they're not going to buy a product because it's got a green message. If you've got a shirt that isn't the right colour or isn't the right fit or hasn't got the right hand feel, people aren't going to buy it, no matter how green it is.' (Retailer 2).
人们购买产品是因为他们想要它，而不是因为它传递了绿色信息。如果你有一件衬衫不是合适的颜色，不是合适的尺寸，或者没有合适的手感，人们不会购买它，无论它有多绿。

Normalizing the design of sustainable clothing and making it easier for consumers to buy it would help to mainstream sustainable clothing and tackle the stigma and stereotypes that hinder its uptake. This is consistent with reported negative perceptions and limitations of sustainable clothing in the literature (Beard, 2009; Hiller Connell, 2010) and the role of clothing as a means of self-expression among both the young and more mature consumers (Piacentini and Mailer, 2004; Michaelidou and Dibb, 2006; Holmlund et al., 2011). The prevalence of high street fashion (Woodwood, 2009) underlines the need to normalize sustainable clothing design.
规范可持续服装设计，使消费者更容易购买，有助于推广可持续服装并解决阻碍其普及的污名和刻板印象。这与文献中报道的可持续服装的负面看法和限制（Beard, 2009; Hiller Connell, 2010）以及服装作为年轻人和更成熟消费者自我表达手段的角色一致（Piacentini and Mailer, 2004; Michaelidou and Dibb, 2006; Holmlund et al., 2011）。高街时尚的普及（Woodwood, 2009）凸显了规范可持续服装设计的必要性。

These findings reinforce the need for eco-fashion to include formal wear, rather than being almost exclusively casual wear in nature (Beard, 2009). Designers' and buyers' misconceptions about sustainable clothing also need to be addressed, because it is not just consumers who have stereotypes about sustainable clothing. Although buyers ultimately make the decisions, designers can marginalize organic or fair trade clothing through the designs, such as 'putting trees on it' (Retailer 3), making it hard to mainstream organic or fair trade clothes.
这些发现强调了生态时尚需要包括正式服装，而不仅仅是几乎完全是休闲服装的需求（Beard，2009）。设计师和买家对可持续服装的误解也需要得到解决，因为对可持续服装存在刻板印象的不仅仅是消费者。尽管最终决策权在买家手中，但设计师可以通过设计边缘化有机或公平贸易服装，比如“在上面放树”（零售商 3），这使得有机或公平贸易服装难以成为主流。

Involving designers and buyers in sustainable strategy is needed to fire consumers' imagination and overcome both designers' and consumers' misconceptions about sustainable clothing. While high profile designers such as Katherine Hamnett, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood are known for their ethical stances, our research revealed that more typically designers are constrained by the demands placed on them and are susceptible to the same stereotypes as consumers. Interventions based on ethical sourcing across a retailer's range would encourage designers and buyers to normalize sustainable clothing design and manufacture and edit the choices available to consumers. Such initiatives are widely used in food, with Marks and Spencer only using free range eggs in all of their products and Sainsbury only selling Fair Trade bananas. Interventions in clothing could take the form of making all cotton either Fair Trade or from the Better Cotton Initiative. The Swedish clothing retailer H&M has already made a pledge to use only sustainably grown cotton by 2020 (Thomasson, 2014).
将设计师和买家纳入可持续战略是必要的，以激发消费者的想象力，并克服设计师和消费者对可持续服装的误解。尽管像凯瑟琳·汉尼特（Katherine Hamnett）、斯特拉·麦卡特尼（Stella McCartney）和薇薇安·韦斯特伍德（Vivienne Westwood）这样的知名设计师以其道德立场而闻名，但我们的研究发现，更典型的设计师受到对他们施加的要求的限制，并且容易受到与消费者相同的刻板印象的影响。基于零售商整体范围的道德采购干预将鼓励设计师和买家将可持续服装设计和制造正常化，并编辑消费者可选择的款式。这种倡议在食品领域被广泛使用，比如马克斯和斯宾塞（Marks and Spencer）只使用放养鸡蛋生产所有产品，而 Sainsbury 只销售公平贸易香蕉。在服装领域的干预可以采取使所有棉花要么是公平贸易的，要么来自更好棉花倡议的形式。瑞典服装零售商 H&M 已经承诺到 2020 年只使用可持续种植的棉花（Thomasson，2014）。

Engaging with consumers effectively is another challenge. Even where retailers had successfully improved the sustainability of their clothing, they were struggling to communicate these improvements to the customers. One retailer described how they had not 'made that connection with the consumer' (Retailer 2). The key barriers were identified as: the complexity of sustainability in clothing, the lack of transparency in the supply chain and consumer scepticism.
与消费者有效互动是另一个挑战。即使零售商成功改善了服装的可持续性，他们仍然难以将这些改进传达给客户。一家零售商描述了他们与消费者没有建立联系的情况。关键障碍被确定为：服装可持续性的复杂性、供应链透明度不足和消费者怀疑。

As a retailer explained, 'you can't just say in one sentence what sustainability is' (Retailer 2). 'Carbon footprint, embedded water, embedded energy, all of those things, social projects and how much time does the consumer have to actually deal with these things' (Retailer 2). Explaining these issues to consumers is complex, particularly determining how to describe the multifaceted sustainability benefits of the purchase and identifying which communication media to use.
正如一位零售商解释的那样，“你不能用一句话来概括可持续性是什么”（零售商 2）。“碳足迹，内嵌水，内嵌能源，所有这些事情，社会项目以及消费者实际上需要多少时间来处理这些事情”（零售商 2）。向消费者解释这些问题是复杂的，特别是确定如何描述购买的多方面可持续性益处，并确定使用哪种传播媒体。

A second barrier is a lack of transparency and the complexity in the supply chain. Retailers will know the supplier or the primary cutting and sewing factory, but they are unlikely to know every aspect of the supply chain, for example where accessories, such as buttons or motifs are made or sewn on. Even with all the checks that are put in place, the complexity of the supply chain makes it hard for retailers to be completely confident that every stage of the production process is 'squeaky clean': 'you cannot put your hand on heart, be absolutely cast iron guaranteed that it's squeaky clean because somebody may be sub-contracting' (Retailer 1 ).
供应链中的第二个障碍是缺乏透明度和复杂性。零售商可能知道供应商或主要的裁剪和缝纫工厂，但他们不太可能了解供应链的每个方面，例如配件的制造地点，比如纽扣或图案是在哪里制作或缝制的。即使进行了所有必要的检查，供应链的复杂性也使得零售商很难完全确信生产过程的每个阶段都是“一尘不染”的：“你不能百分之百地保证它是一尘不染，因为可能有人在转包”（零售商 1）。

A third barrier is scepticism about retailers' sustainability claims, with consumers doubting both the veracity of these claims and the motives of those making them, some regarding them as 'just another way of selling us stuff' (Academic 5). Both academics and retailers highlight the importance of trust, which has implications for the way in which interventions emphasize this issue. As one academic explained: 'I think that ultimately you put your trust, you've got to put your trust in the retailer to have done all that for you [taken care of the ethics]' (Academic 2).
第三个障碍是对零售商可持续性声明的怀疑，消费者怀疑这些声明的真实性以及提出这些声明的动机，有些人认为它们只是“另一种销售我们商品的方式”（学术 5）。学者和零售商都强调信任的重要性，这对干预措施强调这一问题的方式有影响。正如一位学者解释的那样：“我认为最终你要相信，你必须相信零售商已经为你做了所有这些[关心伦理]”（学术 2）。

Improving the transparency of the supply chain and earning consumers' trust were seen as ways of engaging effectively with consumers to address the barrier of complexity in sustainability and clothing supply. This resonates with one of the tenets of slow fashion: greater transparency in production (Clark, 2008).
提高供应链透明度并赢得消费者信任被视为有效与消费者互动的方式，以解决可持续性和服装供应中的复杂性障碍。这与慢时尚的原则之一 resonates: 生产更透明（Clark，2008）。

Improving sustainable behaviour involves changing consumers' mindsets away from following fashion and buying lots of new clothes, to investing in clothes that will suit them and will last. Academics and consultants recognized that reducing consumption was necessary; 'The overarching priority is around consumption: the fact that we buy a lot of clothes.' (Consultant 2). A retailer explained the challenge: 'As societies develop and people get more disposable income, they do want to buy more products which ultimately do become disposable' (Retailer 1).
改善可持续行为涉及改变消费者的心态，使其不再追随时尚和购买大量新衣服，而是投资于适合他们并且耐穿的衣服。学者和顾问们认识到减少消费是必要的；“最重要的优先事项是消费：我们购买了很多衣服。”（顾问 2）。一位零售商解释了挑战：“随着社会的发展和人们拥有更多可支配收入，他们确实想购买更多最终成为一次性消费品的产品”（零售商 1）。

This mindset of over consumption and disposability has led to a more transitory relationship with clothing, with perfectly good clothes disposed of before they are worn out, because clothes can be more easily and conveniently replaced than repaired or modified. The skills for repairing clothes are also disappearing, and even when consumers have these skills, there
这种过度消费和一次性心态导致人们与服装之间的关系更加短暂，即使衣服还很新，也会被丢弃，因为衣服可以更容易、更方便地替换，而不是修理或修改。修补衣服的技能也在逐渐消失，即使消费者具备这些技能，他们
was a sense that 'we don't have to do that anymore' (Academic 5). Pockets of resistance to these attitudes and decline in sewing skills were acknowledged but described as 'sub-cultures'.
这是一种感觉，即“我们不再需要这样做”（学术 5）。对这些态度的抵抗和缝纫技能的下降被承认，但被描述为“亚文化”。

However, for some consumers, there is a desire to be able to form a longer term relationship with their clothing, but clothes nowadays are of lower quality making it difficult to acquire items that will last.
然而，对于一些消费者来说，他们希望能够与自己的服装建立更长期的关系，但如今的衣服质量较低，使得很难获得能够持久的物品。

'... even more so with things like fast fashion, you can't have the same long-term relationship you have to clothing because things fall apart; you wash them, you spend for a top from [a budget retailer] and it falls apart within a couple of washes . . . a lot of people say, well I wish I could have had that for longer, and they're annoyed almost that it ... it is a kind of paradox...' (Academic 3).
“……尤其是在快时尚等事物方面，你无法像对待衣服那样建立长期关系，因为事物会破碎；你洗它们，你花 在[一家廉价零售商]购买一件上衣，几次洗涤后就会破碎……很多人说，我希望我能拥有它更长时间，他们几乎感到恼火，因为……这是一种悖论……”（学术 3）。

This suggests that some consumers may be prepared to invest in more expensive clothes, for which 'effort is made to take care of the product, and repairs are considered as well' (Consultant 1), but attempting to extend the life of everyday clothes and fashionable items is much less likely.
这表明一些消费者可能愿意投资更昂贵的衣服，为此“努力照顾产品，并考虑维修”（顾问 1），但试图延长日常衣服和时尚物品的寿命则不太可能。

Overconsumption is also driven by social pressures perpetuated by the fashion industry and in the media for consumers to update and vary their wardrobe and not be seen rewearing the same clothes.
过度消费也受时尚产业和媒体的社会压力驱使，要求消费者更新和改变他们的衣橱，不要被看到重复穿同样的衣服。

'And the thing that we see in the press where such and such was wearing the same dress that she was wearing last week is terrible, it's that approach and ... social pressures that are floating around that just makes it really difficult for consumers to say, I did wear these trousers yesterday and the day before but I really like them. They fit me and I'm quite happy with that' (Retailer 2).
“我们在媒体上看到某某人穿着上周穿过的同一件衣服的报道是可怕的，这种方式和...周围弥漫的社会压力使消费者很难说，‘我昨天和前天穿过这条裤子，但我真的很喜欢它们。它们合身，我很满意’”（零售商 2）。

The implications of these barriers are that ways of making rewearing and repairing clothes socially acceptable and achievable are needed. Potential interventions include social marketing campaigns designed to challenge and shift social norms (e.g. by involving opinion formers or highlighting the value of investing in clothes) and including textile skills and recycling in the school curriculum. The former would be consistent with the role of the media and celebrities in shaping attitudes towards socially and environmentally sustainable clothing (cf. Birtwistle and Moore, 2006) and in providing ethical information (Carrigan and Attala, 2001). Building on Cho et al.'s (2015) reported association between a focus on style, sustainable purchase and disposal behaviour, consumers could also be provided with tools and assistance to help them understand their preferred style and cuts that would suit their body shapes, so that they feel confident in their clothes and value them as a result. This might persuade consumers to invest in better quality clothes and to wear, care and keep them longer and balance out the perceived financial, social and psychological risks of clothing purchase. Where consumers lack textile skills themselves, interventions might include repairing and recycling clothes, leasing or hiring clothes 'if somebody came up - like a major brand or a new emerging brand, came up with a way of making acceptable for British consumers to lease and hire clothing rather than to buy it.' (Consultant 2).
这些障碍的含义是需要找到使再穿和修补衣服在社会上被接受和可行的方法。潜在的干预措施包括设计挑战和转变社会规范的社会营销活动（例如，通过吸引意见领袖或强调投资于服装的价值），以及在学校课程中包括纺织技能和回收。前者将与媒体和名人在塑造社会和环境可持续服装态度方面的作用一致（参见 Birtwistle 和 Moore，2006 年），并提供道德信息（Carrigan 和 Attala，2001 年）。基于 Cho 等人（2015 年）报告的关于风格、可持续购买和处理行为的关联，消费者也可以获得工具和帮助，帮助他们了解自己喜欢的风格和适合自己身形的剪裁，从而让他们在穿衣服时感到自信并因此珍惜它们。这可能会说服消费者投资于更高质量的服装，并且更长时间地穿着、照顾和保存它们，以平衡服装购买的被认为存在的财务、社会和心理风险。 消费者自己缺乏纺织技能的情况下，干预措施可能包括修理和回收衣服，租赁或租用衣服“如果有人提出 - 就像一个主要品牌或一个新兴品牌，提出了一种让英国消费者接受租赁和租用服装而不是购买的方式。”（顾问 2）。

There are challenges in changing consumers' habits as well as their mindsets. Consumers need to alter their habits to reduce the frequency, temperature and size of washing loads. Although 'companies are beginning to realise that influencing their consumers on how they wash their clothes can have a big impact on the energy use' (Consultant 2), a retailer acknowledged that consumers were unlikely to wash at lower temperatures just because they were told to by the retailer.
改变消费者的习惯和心态存在挑战。消费者需要改变他们的习惯，减少洗涤次数、温度和负载大小。尽管“公司开始意识到影响消费者如何洗衣服可以对能源使用产生重大影响”（顾问 2），一家零售商承认，消费者不太可能因为被零售商告知而降低洗涤温度。

Social norms represent a major barrier to changing behaviour. A prevailing norm is the belief clothes have to be washed frequently at high temperatures. Some retailers such as Levi discourage frequent washing in heated water to preserve the colour and fit (Levi, 2014). Nevertheless, one retailer accepted that even though the washing machine and detergent technologies existed to wash clothes in cold water, persuading consumers of this was not easy. A retailer observed: 'those things are never going to change until you have to pay for the amount of water that you use and the cost of energy goes up to the point where it has a real impact' (Retailer 2). While increasing utility bills may not be a viable intervention, emphasising the time, money and labour savings of reduced frequency and temperature of washing clothes might be. Smart meters might also increase consumers' awareness of the energy used by household items.
社会规范代表了改变行为的主要障碍。一种普遍的规范是认为衣服必须经常在高温下洗涤。一些零售商如 Levi 鼓励减少在热水中频繁洗涤以保持颜色和合身度（Levi，2014 年）。然而，一家零售商承认，即使洗衣机和洗涤剂技术已经存在可以在冷水中洗涤衣物，说服消费者这一点并不容易。一家零售商观察到：“除非你必须为你使用的水量付费，能源成本上升到对其产生真正影响的程度，否则这些事情永远不会改变”（零售商 2）。虽然增加水电费可能不是一种可行的干预措施，但强调减少洗涤衣物的频率和温度所带来的时间、金钱和劳动力节省可能是有效的。智能电表也可能增加消费者对家用物品所使用能源的意识。

An intervention to change consumers' clothing disposal habits that was proposed was upcycling to prolong the life of clothes:
提出的改变消费者服装处理习惯的干预措施是升级，以延长衣服的使用寿命

'The idea upcycling, so changing clothes that you have into something else. ... I think the idea of giving clothes a modern twist and making them updated rather than getting rid of them and replacing them could be something that could be a way in to change habits.' (Consultant 1).
“升级再造的概念，即将您拥有的衣服改变成其他物品。……我认为给衣服注入现代元素，使其更新而不是丢弃并替换它们的想法可能是改变习惯的一种方式。”（顾问 1）。

Interventions to increase recycling are needed upstream as well; going beyond the consumer level to deliver sector-wide action requires government intervention. This could be achieved, for example, through legislation to drive clothing and textile recycling in the same ways as in other areas, such as paper, glass and plastics. One retailer accepted that it has 'taken years and years to get to where we've got to' (Retailer 2) in other areas of recycling, but with the right incentives from government and markets for the recycled products, textile recycling could also become part of normal recycling behaviour.
需要在上游进行增加回收的干预措施；超越消费者层面，实现全行业行动需要政府干预。例如，可以通过立法推动服装和纺织品回收，就像在其他领域（如纸张、玻璃和塑料）一样。一家零售商承认，在其他回收领域，他们“花了多年时间才达到现在的地步”（零售商 2），但在政府和市场为回收产品提供正确的激励措施的情况下，纺织品回收也可以成为正常回收行为的一部分。

Communicating the savings (of time, money and labour) of reducing the frequency and temperature of washing clothes and upcycling were proposed as ways of addressing the challenge of changing consumers' habits and overcoming social norms relating to consumption, affluence and cleanliness. For example, more prominent washing care swing labels advising that clothes can be washed at 30 degrees or recommended washing policies such as that all clothes may be washed at 30 degrees unless otherwise stated would help to bring care issues to consumers' attention and normalize more sustainable practices. Consumers themselves have a big impact on the sustainability of their clothing post-purchase (Fletcher, 2008) and previous research suggests that disposal behaviour is motivated by concern for saving money (by reselling saleable items), convenience and charity consideration (Joung and Park-Poaps, 2013). Government intervention might also be needed to drive clothing recycling, especially as research in the US found no relationship between the awareness of other disposal options and
减少洗涤衣物的频率和温度以及升级再利用的节省（时间、金钱和劳动力）被提出作为解决改变消费者习惯和克服与消费、富裕和清洁有关的社会规范挑战的方法。例如，更突出的洗涤护理标签建议衣物可在 30 度下洗涤，或推荐的洗涤政策，如所有衣物可在 30 度下洗涤，除非另有说明，将有助于引起消费者对护理问题的关注，并使更可持续的实践变得正常化。消费者本身对购买后衣物的可持续性有很大影响（Fletcher，2008），先前的研究表明，处理行为受到对节省金钱（通过转售可出售物品）、便利性和慈善考虑的关注的影响（Joung 和 Park-Poaps，2013）。政府干预可能也需要推动服装回收利用，特别是因为美国的研究发现，意识到其他处理选择与处理行为之间没有关系。
clothing discarding behaviour (Joung and Park-Poaps, 2013). Local authorities might encourage textile recycling by providing monthly doorstep textile collections, which would also help them to reduce the landfill tax they pay.
服装丢弃行为（Joung 和 Park-Poaps，2013）。地方政府可以通过提供每月上门收集纺织品的方式来鼓励纺织品回收，这也有助于减少他们支付的填埋税。

In this article, we have looked at consumer behaviour from the perspective of experts in the field: retailers, academics and consultants. This was to understand the key challenges and barriers to changing consumer behaviour and to suggest some interventions to help overcome these and shift the dominant social paradigm towards greater sustainability. In spite of the encouraging developments in sustainable clothing, our research makes it clear that a focus on sustainability alone will not drive the necessary changes in consumers' clothing purchase, care and disposal behaviour. Markkula and Moisander (2012) called for policymakers to move from focusing on informing and educating consumers to actions that address not only individual consumer perceptions, knowledge and attitudes but also the wider cultural and social contexts of consumers' lives. Drawing on the combined expertise and experience of a variety of experts in the field and integrating previous research, the range of potential interventions proposed in this article answers this call for action and offers ways for sustainable clothing to move forward. There is no one simple answer to improving the sustainability of clothing, but what this article has highlighted is that one of the key challenges is to improve the longevity of clothing. The suggested interventions require action from all parties in the clothing sector, including retailers, designers, policymakers and of course consumers. Although the proposed interventions will require testing, they provide opportunities and an agenda for future research.
在本文中，我们从专家的角度——零售商、学者和顾问的角度——研究了消费者行为。这是为了了解改变消费者行为的关键挑战和障碍，并提出一些干预措施，以帮助克服这些障碍，并将主导社会范式转向更可持续的方向。尽管可持续服装领域出现了令人鼓舞的发展，但我们的研究明确表明，仅关注可持续性并不能推动消费者在购买、护理和处理服装方面所需的变化。Markkula 和 Moisander（2012）呼吁决策者不要只关注向消费者提供信息和教育，而是采取行动，不仅解决个体消费者的看法、知识和态度，还要考虑消费者生活的更广泛文化和社会背景。借鉴领域内各种专家的综合专业知识和经验，并整合以往的研究，本文提出的一系列潜在干预措施响应了这一行动呼吁，并提供了可持续服装前进的途径。 改善服装的可持续性并没有简单的答案，但本文强调的是改善服装的使用寿命是其中一个关键挑战。建议的干预措施需要服装行业的所有各方采取行动，包括零售商、设计师、政策制定者和当然也包括消费者。虽然提出的干预措施需要测试，但它们为未来研究提供了机会和议程。

The authors would like to thank the expert informants who participated in the study and the anonymous reviewers who provided feedback on the manuscript.
作者们要感谢参与研究的专家信息员和提供手稿反馈的匿名审稿人。

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