Background 背景介绍
The Landscape 景观
GEOLOGY 地质学
GLACIATION 冰川
CLIMATE 气候
Plants 植物
VEGETATION ZONES 植被带
FLOWERS 鲜花
BERRIES 浆果
FRANKENSTEIN CABBAGES 科学怪人白菜
Animals 动物
WILDLIFE VIEWING 野生动物观赏
LAND MAMMALS 陆地动物
MARINE MAMMALS 海洋哺乳动物
BIRDS 鸟类
INSECTS 昆虫
FISH 鱼类
History 历史
PREHISTORY 前史
EUROPEAN EXPLORATION 欧洲探险
THE 19TH CENTURY 十九世纪
THE 20TH CENTURY 二十世纪
INTO A NEW CENTURY
进入新世纪
Government and Economy 政府与经济
GOVERNMENT 政府
LAND USE AND MANAGEMENT
土地使用和管理
COST OF LIVING 生活费用
MONEY FOR NOTHIN’ 白花花的银子
MAKING A LIVING 糊口
People and Culture 人与文化
ALASKAN NATIVES 阿拉斯加土著
NATIVE ARTS AND CRAFTS
土著工艺品

ferry at Gull Island in Kachemak Bay
卡切马克湾海鸥岛渡轮

Southcentral Alaska encompasses an extraordinary diversity of land, from deeply incised coastal fjords to 20,310-foot Mount Denali, North America’s highest mountain. Four major mountain ranges dominate the region: the Alaska Range, the Talkeetna Mountains, the Chugach Mountains, and the Kenai Mountains.
阿拉斯加中南部的地貌异常多样，从深深切入的海岸峡湾到 20,310 英尺的北美最高峰德纳利山。该地区主要有四大山脉：阿拉斯加山脉、塔尔基特纳山脉、丘加奇山脉和基奈山脉。
Denali National Park lies near the center of the Alaska Range, comprising not just Mount Denali but many other high summits, including Mount Foraker (17,400 feet), Mount Hunter (14,573 feet), and Mount Huntington (12,240 feet). Large glaciers flow from both sides of the mountains, feeding the Toklat, Teklanika, Denali, Kantishna, and Nenana Rivers that drain north into the Yukon River, and the Susitna, Yentna, Kahiltna, and Chulitna Rivers that drain south into Cook Inlet. Most visitors to Denali access it via the Park Road, a 92-mile gravel road along the north side of the Alaska Range. The southern side is only accessible by air or a very long hike.
德纳利国家公园位于阿拉斯加山脉的中心附近，不仅包括德纳利山，还包括其他许多高峰，包括福瑞克山（17400 英尺）、亨特山（14573 英尺）和亨廷顿山（12240 英尺）。大型冰川从山脉两侧流出，汇入向北流入育空河的托克拉特河（Toklat）、特克拉尼卡河（Teklanika）、德纳利河（Denali）、坎蒂斯纳河（Kantishna）和奈纳纳河（Nenana），以及向南流入库克湾的苏西特纳河（Susitna）、延特纳河（Yentna）、卡希尔特纳河（Kahiltna）和丘利特纳河（Chulitna）。前往迪纳利的大多数游客都要经过公园路，这是一条沿着阿拉斯加山脉北侧长达 92 英里的碎石路。只有乘坐飞机或长途徒步旅行才能到达南侧。
The town of Talkeetna is south of Denali at the juncture of the Talkeetna, Chulitna, and Susitna Rivers. The Talkeetna Mountains rise east of here, with the Matanuska River just south of the Talkeetnas. Hatcher Pass (near Palmer) is a popular access point for the southern Talkeetna Mountains. The north side of the range is accessible from the Denali Highway that connects Cantwell with Paxson.
塔尔基特纳镇位于德纳利以南，塔尔基特纳河、丘利特纳河和苏西特纳河的交汇处。塔尔基特纳山脉（Talkeetna Mountains）在此以东隆起，马塔努斯卡河（Matanuska River）就在塔尔基特纳山脉以南。哈彻山口（帕尔默附近）是通往塔尔基特纳山脉南部的著名入口。从连接坎特韦尔和帕克森的德纳利公路（Denali Highway）可到达山脉北侧。
Cook Inlet reaches north into Southcentral Alaska, forming the region’s western border. Two major rivers drain into Cook Inlet from the north, the Susitna River starting in the Alaska Range, and the Matanuska River, with headwaters in the Chugach Mountains. The valley they jointly form is known as the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, or more commonly, the Mat-Su
库克湾向北延伸至阿拉斯加中南部，形成了该地区的西部边界。有两条主要河流从北部流入库克湾，一条是发源于阿拉斯加山脉的苏西特纳河，另一条是发源于丘加奇山脉的马坦努斯卡河。它们共同形成的河谷被称为马坦努斯卡-苏西特纳河谷，或更常见的马苏河谷。

Valley. It’s home to the fastest-growing part of Alaska and the small cities of Wasilla and Palmer.
山谷。这里是阿拉斯加发展最快的地区，也是小城市瓦西拉和帕尔默的所在地。
The city of Anchorage occupies a relatively flat area of coastal lowland jutting into upper Cook Inlet, with Knik Arm extending northward (it’s fed by the Susitna and Matanuska Rivers) and Turnagain Arm separating the city from the Kenai Peninsula. The Chugach Mountains rise abruptly along the eastern side of Anchorage, with the lower areas dominated by upscale homes and the higher reaches within Chugach State Park.
安克雷奇市位于一片相对平坦的沿海低地，突入库克湾上游，克尼克臂向北延伸（由苏西特纳河和马塔努斯卡河注入），特纳根臂将该市与基奈半岛隔开。丘加奇山脉沿安克雷奇东侧陡然上升，低处主要是高档住宅，高处则位于丘加奇州立公园内。
The Kenai Peninsula has a rugged eastern half dominated by the Kenai Mountains. They extend across the peninsula from the southwestern tip to Turnagain Arm, encompassing Kachemak Bay State Park, Kenai Fjords National Park, Chugach National Forest, and Kenai National Wildlife Refuge. Glaciers cover extensive parts of the peninsula, with massive Harding Icefield taking in 300 square miles and feeding 40 glaciers. The Kenai River is famous as a fishing destination, flowing across the western side of the peninsula. The town of Seward sits at the head of Resurrection Bay and is bordered by mountains on all sides. The western portion of the Kenai Peninsula has extensive areas where Minnesotans would feel at home, with relatively flat forested country pockmarked with thousands of small lakes and several large ones: Tustumena Lake, Kenai Lake, and Skilak Lake. The almost-twin small cities of Soldotna and Kenai are near the mouth of the Kenai River, and Homer lies at the end of the road-literally-along beautiful Kachemak Bay.
基奈半岛的东半部崎岖不平，以基奈山脉为主。山脉从西南端延伸至特纳根臂，横跨半岛，包括卡切马克湾州立公园、基奈峡湾国家公园、丘加奇国家森林公园和基奈国家野生动物保护区。冰川覆盖了半岛的大部分地区，其中巨大的哈丁冰原占地 300 平方英里，为 40 个冰川提供养分。基奈河流经半岛西侧，是著名的垂钓胜地。苏厄德镇位于复活湾的源头，四面环山。基奈半岛西部有大片让明尼苏达人感到宾至如归的地区，这里地势相对平坦，森林茂密，遍布数以千计的小湖和几个大湖：图斯图梅纳湖（Tustumena Lake）、基奈湖（Kenai Lake）和斯基拉克湖（Skilak Lake）。索尔多特纳（Soldotna）和基奈（Kenai）几乎是两个小城市，位于基奈河河口附近，而荷马（Homer）则位于美丽的卡切马克湾（Kachemak Bay）的尽头。

1: deep snow on Turnagain Pass 2: hikers on Harding Icefield Trail near Seward
1: 特纳金山口的积雪 2: 苏厄德附近哈丁冰原路径上的徒步旅行者

Plate Tectonics 板块构造

Briefly, the huge Pacific plate (the ocean floor) is drifting slowly northeast. It collides with the North American plate, on which the continent rests, along an arc that stretches from the western Aleutians in the Gulf of Alaska to the Inside Passage-defining one section of the famous Pacific Ring of Fire. This meeting of plates jams the ocean floor under the continental landmass and gives rise to violent geological forces: upthrust mountains, extensive and large earthquakes, volcanic rumblings and eruptions, and movement along fault lines.
简而言之，巨大的太平洋板块（洋底）正在缓慢地向东北漂移。它沿着一条从阿拉斯加湾阿留申群岛西部一直延伸到内侧通道的弧线，与北美板块相撞，北美大陆就在这条弧线上，这就是著名的 "太平洋火环 "的一部分。板块的交汇将洋底挤压在大陆陆块之下，产生了猛烈的地质作用力：隆起的山脉、大范围的地震、火山爆发以及沿断层线的运动。
Somewhere in the mists of early geological time, a particularly persistent and powerful collision between the two plates caused the Brooks Range to rise; erosion has whittled its highest peaks to 8,000 feet, half their original height. Later, a similar episode thrust the Alaska Range into shape. The Pacific plate even today continues to nose under the continental plate in the vicinity of Yakutat (near where southeast meets Southcentral Alaska). The force is pushing Mount Logan-Canada’s highest peak-slowly upward. Learn more about the geological forces shaping Alaska at the University of Alaska’s Geophysical Institute (www.gi.alaska.edu).
在早期地质年代的某处，两个板块之间发生了一次特别持久而强烈的碰撞，导致布鲁克斯山脉拔地而起；侵蚀将其最高峰削成了 8000 英尺，只有原来高度的一半。后来，一个类似的事件又将阿拉斯加山脉推向成形。时至今日，太平洋板块仍在雅库特附近（阿拉斯加东南部与阿拉斯加中南部交汇处附近）继续向大陆板块下方移动。这股力量正推动加拿大最高峰洛根山缓慢地向上攀升。在阿拉斯加大学地球物理研究所 ( www.gi.alaska.edu) 了解更多有关塑造阿拉斯加的地质作用力的信息。

One of the world’s most seismically active regions, Alaska has withstood some of the most violent earthquakes and largest tidal waves ever recorded. In the last century, more than 80 Alaskan earthquakes registered higher than magnitude 7. The most destructive occurred at 5:35pm on March 27, 1964, when the most powerful earthquake ever recorded in North America rocked Southcentral Alaska. This magnitude 9.2 quake ( 80 times bigger than the famous 1906 San Francisco earthquake, which is estimated at around 7.8) had a devastating impact on the region, flattening 75 homes and businesses in Anchorage, creating tsunamis that wiped out nearly every coastal village in Southcentral Alaska, and wreaking havoc all the way to California. The quake and its tsunamis killed 131 people. It was the second strongest in the 20th century; only a magnitude 9.5 quake in Chile in 1960 was larger.
阿拉斯加是世界上地震最活跃的地区之一，经受过有史以来最猛烈的地震和最大的潮汐。在上个世纪，阿拉斯加发生了 80 多次 7 级以上的地震。最具破坏性的地震发生在 1964 年 3 月 27 日下午 5 时 35 分，当时阿拉斯加中南部发生了北美洲有记录以来最强烈的地震。这次 9.2 级地震（比著名的 1906 年旧金山地震大 80 倍，旧金山地震估计为 7.8 级左右）对该地区造成了毁灭性的影响，安克雷奇的 75 栋房屋和企业被夷为平地，引发的海啸几乎摧毁了阿拉斯加中南部的所有沿海村庄，并一直肆虐到加利福尼亚。地震及其引发的海啸造成 131 人死亡。它是 20 世纪第二次最强烈的地震，仅次于 1960 年智利发生的 9.5 级地震。
Anyone who spends more than a few months in Southcentral Alaska will probably feel at least one earthquake. The Alaska Earthquake Information Center website
任何在阿拉斯加中南部逗留数月以上的人都可能至少感受到一次地震。阿拉斯加地震信息中心网站
(www.earthquake.alaska.edu) provides detailed information on Alaskan earthquakes, including today’s activity. For additional background on earthquakes in Alaska, visit the USGS
( www.earthquake.alaska.edu) 提供阿拉斯加地震的详细信息，包括今天的活动。有关阿拉斯加地震的更多背景信息，请访问 USGS
Earthquake Hazards Program website (http://earthquake.usgs.gov).
地震灾害计划网站 ( http://earthquake.usgs.gov)。

An earthquake deep below the ocean floor in the Gulf of Alaska or the open Pacific is especially dangerous to the coasts of Alaska and Hawaii, along with the west coast of Canada and the United States. The activity creates enormous tidal waves (tsunamis), which, although they are only 3-5 feet high in the open ocean, can travel at speeds exceeding 500 mph . Contrary to popular fears, a tsunami does not slam into the coast with 20 or 30 feet of water, washing away everything in its path like a flash flood. Instead, the water slowly inundates the land to a depth of 4-5 feet. Then, after a brief and chilling calm, the wave is sucked back out to sea in one vast undertow. Most of the destruction caused by the great Good Friday earthquake was of this
阿拉斯加湾或太平洋公海海底深处发生的地震对阿拉斯加和夏威夷海岸以及加拿大和美国西海岸尤为危险。地震活动会产生巨大的潮汐波（海啸），虽然它们在公海上只有 3-5 英尺高，但传播速度可超过 500 英里/小时。与人们普遍担心的相反，海啸不会像山洪暴发一样，以 20 或 30 英尺高的水柱冲向海岸，冲走沿途的一切。相反，海水会慢慢淹没陆地，深度为 4-5 英尺。然后，在短暂的令人不寒而栗的平静之后，海浪被一股巨大的暗流吸回大海。耶稣受难日大地震造成的大部分破坏就是这种情况
nature, attested to by hair-raising pictures that you’ll see in places like Valdez, Seward, and Kodiak. If you hear a tsunami warning, get to higher ground immediately. The U.S. Tsunami Warning Center (www.tsunami.gov) is based in Palmer, and its website provides information on recent and historic tsunamis.
您在瓦尔迪兹、苏厄德和科迪亚克等地看到的令人毛骨悚然的照片证明了这一点。如果听到海啸警报，请立即前往地势较高的地方。美国海啸预警中心（www.tsunami.gov）位于帕尔默，其网站提供有关近期和历史海啸的信息。

Like its earthquakes, Alaska’s major volcanoes are located along the Aleutian chain. In fact, 57 active volcanoes stretch along this arc, and most have been active in the last 300 years. The largest recorded eruption occurred when Novarupta blew its top in 1912, the most cataclysmic natural disaster since Krakatoa cracked 30 years earlier.
与阿拉斯加的地震一样，阿拉斯加的主要火山也位于阿留申群岛沿岸。事实上，有 57 座活火山沿着这条弧线延伸，其中大多数是在过去 300 年中活跃起来的。有记录以来最大的一次喷发发生在 1912 年诺瓦鲁普塔火山喷发时，这是自 30 年前喀拉喀托火山破裂以来最严重的自然灾害。
There’s always an active volcano somewhere in the state, especially in the Aleutians and along the Alaska Peninsula. The University of Alaska Fairbanks Alaska Volcano Observatory (www.avo.alaska.edu) keeps track of volcanic activity, and its website has details on current and historic eruptions.
阿拉斯加州的某个地方总是有活火山，尤其是在阿留申群岛和阿拉斯加半岛沿线。阿拉斯加大学费尔班克斯分校阿拉斯加火山观测站（www.avo.alaska.edu）一直在跟踪火山活动，其网站上有当前和历史上火山爆发的详细信息。
Several volcanoes get particular attention because of their recent activity and proximity to major population centers: Mount Spurr (78 miles west of Anchorage) erupted in 1992; Mount Augustine (171 miles southwest of Anchorage) in 2005; and Mount Redoubt (103 miles southwest of Anchorage) in 1989 and 2009. Each of these dumped ash in varying amounts on the region, closing schools and businesses, filling the air with ash (hazardous for people, electronics, and car engines), and creating havoc for air travel. The 1989 eruption of Mount Redoubt nearly brought down a KLM jet when it flew into the ash cloud, causing all four engines to shut down. The plane dove two miles before the pilots were able to restart the engines and land safely in Anchorage. That same year, Redoubt generated a massive debris flow down the Drift River, inundating an oil terminal and threatening to spill oil into Cook Inlet.
有几座火山因其最近的活动和靠近主要人口中心而受到特别关注：斯普尔火山（位于安克雷奇以西 78 英里处）于 1992 年喷发；奥古斯丁火山（位于安克雷奇西南 171 英里处）于 2005 年喷发；雷杜布特火山（位于安克雷奇西南 103 英里处）于 1989 年和 2009 年喷发。这些火山爆发都向该地区倾泻了不同数量的火山灰，导致学校和企业停课，空气中弥漫着火山灰（对人体、电子设备和汽车发动机有害），给航空旅行造成了严重破坏。1989 年，雷杜布特火山爆发，一架荷兰皇家航空公司的飞机飞入火山灰云中，导致四个发动机全部熄火，险些坠毁。飞机俯冲两英里后，飞行员才重新启动引擎，安全降落在安克雷奇。同年，雷杜布特火山引发了漂流河的大规模泥石流，淹没了一个石油码头，并有可能将石油泄漏到库克湾。

A glacier forms in areas of high precipitation and elevation where the snow is allowed to pile up to great depths, compacting the bottom layers into solid ice. The great weight above the bottom ice (along with the force of gravity) pushes it slowly downward like a giant frozen river, scooping out huge valleys and shearing off entire mountainsides. When the rate of advance is balanced by melt-off, the face of the glacier remains more or less stationary. If the glacier flows more quickly than its face melts, it advances; if it melts faster than it flows, the glacier recedes. Air bubbles are squeezed out of the glacier by this tremendous pressure, which makes glacial ice extremely dense. It’s so compact that the higher frequencies of light cannot escape or penetrate it, which explains the dark-blue tinge. And because of its density, it also melts at fantastically slow rates; a small chunk or two will keep beer in a cooler chilled for a day or two.
冰川形成于降水量大、海拔高的地区，那里的积雪会堆积到很深的地方，把底层压成坚冰。底层冰上的巨大重量（加上重力）将冰川像一条巨大的冰冻河流一样缓缓向下推移，刨出巨大的山谷，并将整个山坡剪断。当冰川的前进速度与融化速度相平衡时，冰川的表面或多或少会保持静止。如果冰川流动的速度快于冰川面融化的速度，冰川就会前进；如果冰川融化的速度快于流动的速度，冰川就会后退。巨大的压力会挤出冰川中的气泡，使冰川冰变得异常致密。冰川的密度如此之大，以至于高频率的光线无法逃逸或穿透冰川，这就是冰川呈现深蓝色的原因。由于密度大，冰川融化的速度也非常缓慢；一小块或两块冰能让冰柜里的啤酒保持一两天的冰爽。

As you travel up the coast or hike in the national parks of the interior, you’ll soon start to recognize and identify glacial landforms. While rivers typically erode V-shaped valleys,
当您沿着海岸线旅行或在内陆的国家公园徒步旅行时，您很快就会开始识别冰川地貌。河流通常会侵蚀出 V 形山谷、
glaciers gouge out distinctly U-shaped glacial troughs. Valleys and ridges branching from the main valley are sliced off to create hanging valleys and truncated spurs. A side valley that once carried a tributary glacier may be left as a hanging trough; waterfalls often tumble from these hanging valleys and troughs. Alpine glaciers scoop out the headwalls of their accumulation basins to form cirques. Bare jagged ridges between cirques are known as arêtes. As a glacier moves down a valley, it bulldozes a load of rock, sand, and gravel-known as glacial till-ahead of it, or carries it on top. Glacial till that has been dumped is called a moraine. Lateral moraines are pushed to the sides of glaciers, while a terminal moraine is deposited at the farthest point of the face’s advance. A medial moraine is formed when two glaciers unite. These ribbonlike strips of rubble can be followed back to the point where the lateral moraines converge between the glaciers.
冰川凿出明显的 U 形冰川槽。从主谷分支出来的山谷和山脊被切割成悬谷和截断的支脉。曾经承载支流冰川的侧谷可能会成为悬谷；瀑布经常从这些悬谷和悬谷中倾泻而下。阿尔卑斯山的冰川将其堆积盆地的顶壁挖出，形成山圈。山圈之间光秃秃的锯齿状山脊被称为弧峰。当冰川沿着山谷向下移动时，它会把岩石、沙子和碎石（称为冰川壤土）推到前面，或者把它们带到上面。冰川堆积物被称为冰碛。侧碛被推向冰川的两侧，而末端碛则沉积在冰川面前进的最远处。内侧冰碛在两条冰川汇合时形成。这些带状的碎石可以追溯到冰川之间侧碛的汇合点。
When looking at a glaciated landscape, watch for gouges and scrape marks on the bedrock, which indicate the direction of glacial flow. Watch too for erratics, huge boulders carried long distances and deposited by the glacier that often differ from the surrounding rock. Glacial runoff is often suffused with finely powdered till or glacial flour, which gives it a distinctive milkywhite color; the abundance of this silt in glacial streams creates a twisting, braided course. With a little practice, you’ll soon learn to recognize glacial features at a glance.
在观察冰川地貌时，要注意基岩上的沟槽和刮痕，它们表明了冰川流动的方向。还要注意冰川携带和沉积下来的巨石，它们往往与周围的岩石不同。冰川径流通常带有粉末状的冰碛物或冰川粉，呈现出独特的乳白色；冰川溪流中大量的这种淤泥会形成曲折的辫状河道。只要稍加练习，您很快就能一眼认出冰川特征。
The vast majority of Alaska’s glaciers, like those in many other parts of the world, are retreating as the global climate warms. In some cases, glaciers have drawn back many miles in the last few decades, exposing newly formed bays and producing massive outflows of icebergs. The 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill was caused when the ship diverted to avoid ice from nearby Columbia Glacier; it didn’t help, of course, that the captain was drunk.
随着全球气候变暖，阿拉斯加的绝大多数冰川都在后退，就像世界上许多其他地方的冰川一样。在某些情况下，冰川在过去几十年里后退了许多英里，露出了新形成的海湾，并产生了大量的冰山外流。1989 年的埃克森-瓦尔迪兹漏油事件，就是由于油轮为避开附近哥伦比亚冰川的冰层而转向造成的；当然，船长喝醉酒也无济于事。

To picture permafrost, imagine a veneer of mud atop a slab of ice. In the colder places of the Lower 48, soil ecologists measure how much surface soil freezes in winter. In Alaska, they measure how much surface soil thaws in summer. True permafrost is ground that has stayed frozen for more than two years. To create and maintain permafrost, the annual average temperature must remain below freezing. The topsoil above the permafrost that thaws in the summer is known as the active layer. With the proper conditions, permafrost will penetrate downward until it meets heat from the earth’s mantle. In the Arctic, permafrost begins a few feet below the surface and can extend 2,000-5,000 feet deep. This is known as continuous permafrost, which almost completely underlies the ground above the Arctic Circle. Discontinuous permafrost, with permafrost in scattered patches, covers extensive parts of Alaska, particularly boggy areas covered by black spruce forests.
要描绘永久冻土，可以想象在一块冰上覆盖着一层泥土。在美国下48州的寒冷地区，土壤生态学家测量表层土壤在冬季冻结的程度。在阿拉斯加，他们测量夏季表层土壤解冻的程度。真正的永久冻土是指冻结时间超过两年的地面。要形成并维持永久冻土，年平均温度必须保持在冰点以下。夏季解冻的永久冻土之上的表层土壤被称为活动层。在适当的条件下，永久冻土会向下渗透，直到遇到来自地幔的热量。在北极，永久冻土从地表下几英尺处开始，可以延伸到 2,000-5,000 英尺深处。这就是所谓的连续永久冻土，它几乎完全覆盖了北极圈以上的地面。不连续的永久冻土，以及零星分布的永久冻土，覆盖了阿拉斯加的广大地区，尤其是被黑云杉林覆盖的沼泽地区。

Mention the word “Alaska” and many people will immediately think of deep snow, glaciers, and dogsleds. The state does indeed have all these things, but in recent years the warming climate is taking a major toll.
提起 "阿拉斯加 "这个词，很多人都会立刻联想到深雪、冰川和狗拉雪橇。阿拉斯加州的确拥有这些东西，但近年来，气候变暖正在造成重大损失。

Virtually all national and international scientific organizations (including the National Academy of Science) are on the record saying that these changes are real, are caused by people, and will cause dramatic changes on a global scale. Studies by NASA and NOAA show a continuing rise in global temperatures. The world’s 10 hottest years have all taken place since 1998; six of the hottest years ever recorded have been in this decade, including 2016 and 2020, tied for the hottest years ever recorded.
几乎所有国家和国际科学组织（包括美国国家科学院）都公开表示，这些变化是真实存在的，是由人类引起的，并将在全球范围内引起巨大的变化。美国国家航空航天局（NASA）和国家海洋和大气管理局（NOAA）的研究表明，全球气温在持续上升。全球最热的 10 个年份都发生在 1998 年之后；有记录以来最热的年份中有 6 个发生在这 10 年，其中 2016 年和 2020 年并列成为有记录以来最热的年份。
What does this mean for Alaska? In northern climates, temperatures are increasing more quickly. The Arctic is warming twice as fast as the global rate. In the last 50 years, Alaska’s temperatures have gone up an average of ${3.4}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${3.4}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$3.4^(@)F3.4^{\circ} \mathrm{F} overall, and ${6.3}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${6.3}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$6.3^(@)F6.3^{\circ} \mathrm{F} in winter. Cold, snowy winters are being replaced by mild, rainy winters. For the latest research, visit the University of Alaska Fairbanks International Arctic Research Center (www.iarc.uaf.edu) online. Some of these changes are subtle, such as a northward-moving tree line or increasing carbon dioxide causing acidification of the oceans, but others are dramatic. Virtually all of Alaska’s glaciers are retreating-some are moving back hundreds of feet in just a few years. At Exit Glacier near Seward, you will find plants growing where ice stood just a few years ago. Denali National Park is a good example of the changes caused by a warming climate and the economic impacts they can have. The 92 -mile Denali Road closed in 2021 after a slow-moving landslide-triggered by melting permafrost-destroyed a key portion of the road. It will remain closed until a new bridge can be completed. At the same time spruce trees are dying across Southcentral Alaska, killed by bark beetles that spread with a warming climate. These beetles have already decimated forests just south of Denali, and will soon be destroying the beautiful subalpine forests near the park’s entrance area.
这对阿拉斯加意味着什么？在北方气候中，气温上升得更快。北极地区的变暖速度是全球变暖速度的两倍。在过去的 50 年中，阿拉斯加的总体气温平均上升了 ${3.4}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${3.4}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$3.4^(@)F3.4^{\circ} \mathrm{F} ，冬季气温平均上升了 ${6.3}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${6.3}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$6.3^(@)F6.3^{\circ} \mathrm{F} 。寒冷多雪的冬季正在被温和多雨的冬季所取代。有关最新研究，请访问阿拉斯加大学费尔班克斯分校国际北极研究中心（www.iarc.uaf.edu）网站。这些变化有些是微妙的，例如树线向北移动或二氧化碳的增加导致海洋酸化，但有些变化则是巨大的。阿拉斯加几乎所有的冰川都在后退，有些冰川在短短几年内就后退了数百英尺。在西沃德（Seward）附近的出口冰川（Exit Glacier），你会发现几年前冰川还在的地方长出了植物。迪纳利国家公园是一个很好的例子，说明了气候变暖所带来的变化及其对经济的影响。在永冻土融化引发的缓慢移动的山体滑坡摧毁了道路的一个关键部分后，92 英里长的迪纳利公路于 2021 年关闭。在一座新桥建成之前，该公路将一直关闭。与此同时，阿拉斯加中南部的云杉树也在死亡，它们是被随着气候变暖而蔓延的树皮甲虫杀死的。这些甲虫已经摧毁了德纳利南部的森林，并将很快摧毁公园入口附近美丽的亚高山森林。
In the last decade, the Iditarod has been plagued with a lack of snow and warm temperatures. In the 2013-2014 and 2014-2015 winters, Alyeska Resort had to use expensive snowmaking equipment to stay open for skiing. Alaskan coastal towns such as Shishamaref are sliding into the sea. The loss of Arctic sea ice is forcing both polar bears and walruses onto land, and rising water temperatures are threatening the survival of juvenile salmon and seabirds. Fires are burning across wider reaches of the state every summer. Unfortunately, these changes are just the tip of the proverbial (melting) iceberg.
在过去十年中，艾迪塔罗德滑雪赛一直受到缺雪和气温过高的困扰。在 2013-2014 年和 2014-2015 年冬季，阿莱斯卡度假村不得不使用昂贵的造雪设备才能继续开放滑雪。阿拉斯加沿海城镇，如希沙马雷夫（Shishamaref），正在滑向大海。北极海冰的消失迫使北极熊和海象走上陆地，而水温的上升则威胁着幼鲑和海鸟的生存。每年夏天，大火都会在该州更广阔的地区燃烧。不幸的是，这些变化只是众所周知的（融化）冰山一角。
Alaskans face a daunting conundrum. They depend on oil tax revenues to run the state, but when that oil is burned, it causes a warming of the climate that endangers the land itself. Alaskan politicians are almost unanimous in support of the oil industry. U.S. Senators Lisa Murkowski and Dan Sullivan oppose any efforts to slow global warming. One glacier tour boat operator doesn’t even want employees suggesting that human-caused changes are leading to glacial melting, even though you can literally watch the glaciers recede.
阿拉斯加人面临着一个令人生畏的难题。他们依靠石油税收来维持国家运转，但石油燃烧后会导致气候变暖，危及土地本身。阿拉斯加的政客们几乎一致支持石油工业。美国参议员丽莎-穆尔科斯基（Lisa Murkowski）和丹-沙利文（Dan Sullivan）反对任何减缓全球变暖的努力。一家冰川游船运营商甚至不希望员工暗示人类造成的变化正在导致冰川融化，尽管你可以亲眼看到冰川消退。
Whether we like it - and even if we don’t believe it—Alaska’s climate is warming rapidly. Only time will tell if we can act before the impacts are devastating for the entire planet. The Arctic is warming twice as fast as the rest of the planet, and as Alaska’s climate shifts due to global warming, the permafrost is also melting, creating all sorts of problems both within the state and potentially for the planet as a whole. Melting permafrost can severely damage buildings, roads, pipelines, and other structures. As it melts, organic matter trapped in the ice decays, causing the release of methane and carbon dioxide. These gases may in turn lead to
不管我们愿不愿意，即使我们不相信，阿拉斯加的气候正在迅速变暖。只有时间才能告诉我们，我们能否在对整个地球造成毁灭性影响之前采取行动。北极变暖的速度是地球其他地区的两倍，随着阿拉斯加的气候因全球变暖而发生变化，永久冻土也在融化，这不仅在阿拉斯加州内造成了各种问题，也可能给整个地球带来问题。融化的永久冻土会严重损坏建筑物、道路、管道和其他结构。随着融化，冰层中的有机物会腐烂，从而释放出甲烷和二氧化碳。这些气体又会导致
catastrophic changes in the atmosphere and further warming of the planet; a 2015 study suggested dire global consequences if the permafrost melts.
2015 年的一项研究表明，如果永久冻土融化，将对全球造成可怕的后果。

Granted, over the course of a year, in any given location, Alaska’s weather can be extreme and unpredictable. Because of the harshness of the winters, comfortable travel to many popular destinations is difficult early October-late April. Contrary to popular perception, however, the weather can also be quite pleasant. Southcentral Alaska’s spring, summer, and fall are not unlike these seasons in Minnesota. For the latest outdoor forecast, visit the National Weather Service’s Alaska website (http://forecast.weather.gov).
当然，在一年中，阿拉斯加任何一个地方的天气都可能是极端和不可预测的。由于冬季严寒，10 月初至 4 月末很难前往许多热门目的地进行舒适的旅行。然而，与人们的普遍看法相反，阿拉斯加的天气也可能相当宜人。阿拉斯加中南部的春季、夏季和秋季与明尼苏达州的这些季节并无二致。如需了解最新的户外天气预报，请访问国家气象局阿拉斯加网站 ( http://forecast.weather.gov)。
It’s possible to generalize about Alaskan weather and distinguish three climatic zones: coastal maritime, interior, and Arctic. The main factor affecting the southern coasts is the warm Japanese Current, which causes temperatures to be much milder than the norm at those latitudes. This current also brings continuous rain as humid Pacific air is forced up over the coastal mountains. For example, it rains in Juneau two out of three days. However, these mountains shield the interior plateaus from the maritime airstreams, so yearly precipitation there is low-a mere 15 inches. The interior experiences great temperature extremes, from biting cold in winter to summer heat waves. The mountains also protect the coastal areas from cold-and hot - interior air masses. The Arctic zone is characterized by cool, cloudy, and windy summers (averaging ${50}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${50}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$50^(@)F50^{\circ} \mathrm{F} ) and cold, windy winters-though not as cold as in the interior.
阿拉斯加的天气可以概括为三个气候区：沿海海洋区、内陆区和北极区。影响南部海岸的主要因素是日本暖流，它使这些纬度地区的气温比常年温和得多。由于潮湿的太平洋空气被挤压到沿海山脉上空，这股洋流还带来了持续的降雨。例如，朱诺三天中有两天会下雨。不过，这些山脉阻挡了内陆高原的海洋气流，因此那里的年降水量很低，只有 15 英寸。内陆地区的气温极端恶劣，从冬季的严寒到夏季的热浪。山脉还保护沿海地区免受内陆冷热气团的影响。北极地区的特点是夏季凉爽、多云、多风（平均 ${50}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${50}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$50^(@)F50^{\circ} \mathrm{F} ），冬季寒冷、多风--虽然不像内陆地区那么寒冷。
The Alaska Climate Research Center (http://climate.gi.alaska.edu) has detailed information on the state’s climate, along with current weather conditions.
阿拉斯加气候研究中心 ( http://climate.gi.alaska.edu) 提供有关该州气候以及当前天气状况的详细信息。

One of the prime attractions for winter visitors to Alaska is the chance to view the aurora borealis-northern lights-in action. The finest viewing areas are in the northern part of the state, particularly around Fairbanks and Bettles, but when conditions are right, the sky lights up across Anchorage and the Kenai Peninsula. Denali National Park and Talkeetna are both far enough north to experience more aurora activity.
冬季到阿拉斯加旅游的主要景点之一是观赏北极光。最好的观赏区在阿拉斯加州北部，特别是费尔班克斯和贝特尔斯附近，但如果条件合适，安克雷奇和基奈半岛的天空也会出现极光。德纳利国家公园（Denali National Park）和塔尔基特纳（Talkeetna）都在足够靠北的地方，可以看到更多的极光活动。
For detailed information on northern lights and predictions of upcoming aurora activity, visit the websites of the University of Alaska’s Geophysical Institute
欲了解北极光的详细信息以及对即将到来的极光活动的预测，请访问阿拉斯加大学地球物理研究所的网站
(www.gi.alaska.edu/auroraforecast) and the extraordinarily detailed Solarham (www.solarham.net).
( www.gi.alaska.edu/auroraforecast) 和异常详细的 Solarham ( www.solarham.net)。

Southcentral Alaskan forests are dominated by spruce, aspen, cottonwood, alder, birch, and willow. Boreal forests cover the western Kenai Peninsula. Much of the interior lowlands north of Talkeetna consist primarily of scattered open stands of white spruce, paper birch, alpine fir, lodgepole pine, and balsam poplar (cottonwood). Taiga, the transition zone between boreal
阿拉斯加中南部的森林以云杉、杨树、木棉、桤木、桦树和柳树为主。基奈半岛西部覆盖着北方森林。塔尔基特纳以北的大部分内陆低地主要由零星的白云杉、纸桦、高山冷杉、落叶松和苦杨（木棉）组成。泰加林区（Taiga）是北寒带和南寒带之间的过渡地带。
forest and tundra, is characterized by sparse and stunted black spruce, dwarf shrubbery (mostly the ubiquitous willow), and swampy areas known as “muskegs.”
森林和苔原的特点是稀疏和发育不良的黑云杉、矮小的灌木丛（主要是无处不在的柳树）以及被称为 "沼泽 "的沼泽地。
The lower-elevation tundra, also known as the “moist tundra,” starts at tree line, around 2,500 feet. There you find undergrowth similar to that of the taiga but without the trees. The higherelevation alpine tundra consists of grasses, clinging mosses and lichens, and an abundance of tiny, psychedelically bright wildflowers, including the unforgettable forget-me-not (the state flower), with gaze-catching petals of light blue.
低海拔苔原也被称为 "湿润苔原"，从 2500 英尺左右的林木线开始。那里的灌木丛与泰加针叶林相似，但没有树木。海拔较高的高山苔原由草、附着苔藓和地衣以及大量迷幻鲜艳的小野花组成，其中包括令人难忘的勿忘我（州花），淡蓝色的花瓣引人注目。

While you’re hiking, an excellent book to have along is Field Guide to Alaskan Wildflowers by Verna E. Pratt. The photographs are good, the descriptions are usable, and the flowers are conveniently arranged by color.
在徒步旅行时，您可以随身携带 Verna E. Pratt 所著的《阿拉斯加野花野外指南》（Field Guide to Alaskan Wildflowers）。书中的照片很好，描述也很实用，花朵按颜色排列，非常方便。
Fireweed is a wildflower you’ll come to know intimately during your travels in the north. It enjoys sunlight and grows profusely in open areas along roads and rivers. Given proper conditions, tall fireweed can grow to seven feet high. Its long stalk of pink flowers blossoms from bottom to top; sourdoughs claim they can predict the arrival and severity of winter by the speed with which fireweed finishes blooming.
火烧草是您在北方旅行时会熟悉的一种野花。它喜欢阳光，在道路和河流两旁的开阔地大量生长。在适当的条件下，高火绒草可以长到七英尺高。它长长的粉红色花茎从下往上绽放；酸包谷人声称，他们可以通过火棘花开花的速度来预测冬天的到来和严寒程度。
Three kinds of primrose, also a pinkish red, are another common sight on the tundra. Other red wildflowers of the tundra include purple mountain saxifrage, moss campion, and large bright-pink poppies.
苔原上常见的还有三种报春花，也是粉红色的。苔原上的其他红色野花包括紫色山虎耳草、苔菅花和大朵的亮粉色罂粟花。
White flowers include the narcissus-flowered anemone, similar to a buttercup, which also grows on the tundra. Mountain avens are easily recognizable-they look like white roses. A half-dozen kinds of white saxifrage are widespread throughout the state. Be careful of the local water hemlock, which is deadly poisonous. Similar is the yarrow, a medicinal herb with a disk of small white flowers and lacelike leaves. As soon as you identify Labrador tea, you’ll notice it everywhere in the forest and taiga. Cotton grass looks exactly like its name. Daisies and fleabane complete this group of plants with white flowers.
白色花朵包括水仙花葵，类似毛茛，也生长在苔原上。山银莲花很容易辨认--它们看起来像白玫瑰。全州广泛分布着六种白色虎耳草。要小心当地的水毒芹，它有剧毒。类似的还有西洋蓍草，它是一种药用草本植物，开着一盘白色小花，叶子像漆。只要你认出拉布拉多茶，你就会发现森林和针叶林中到处都有它的身影。棉花草看起来就像它的名字一样。雏菊和飞燕草使这组白色花朵的植物更加完整。
Larkspur looks similar to fireweed, only it’s dark purple. It grows on a long stalk and a dwarf bush. Monkshood is a beautiful dark-blue flower of the buttercup family; harebells and bluebells are easily identified around Denali. Three kinds of violets grow in the boreal forest. Light-purple lupine flowers grow in 20-inch clusters. Asters, resembling purple daisies, bloom all over the interior.
飞燕草看起来与火烧草相似，只是它是深紫色的。它长在长长的茎上，是一种矮小的灌木丛。鹅掌柴是毛茛科的一种美丽的深蓝色花朵；在德纳利附近很容易辨认出兔铃花和蓝铃花。北方森林中生长着三种紫罗兰。浅紫色的羽扇豆花长成 20 英寸的花簇。类似紫色雏菊的牡丹在内陆地区遍地开花。

Berries are the only fruits that grow naturally in Alaska, and luckily the many varieties are abundant, several are edible, a few even taste good, and only one is poisonous. If you’re into berry collecting, get to know poisonous baneberry immediately. A member of the crowfoot family, it grows mostly in the southeast and the central interior. The white berries look like black-eyed peas; they ripen to a scarlet red. Juniper berries grow throughout Alaska, but the bog blueberries, Alaska blueberries, and huckleberries are much tastier. Blueberries also
浆果是阿拉斯加唯一自然生长的水果，幸运的是，浆果品种繁多，有几种可以食用，有几种甚至味道不错，只有一种有毒。如果您喜欢收集浆果，请立即了解有毒的山桑子。毒山桑子是乌脚树科植物，主要生长在东南部和中部内陆地区。白色浆果看起来像黑眼豌豆，成熟后呈猩红色。杜松浆果生长在整个阿拉斯加，但沼泽蓝莓、阿拉斯加蓝莓和胡克莓要美味得多。蓝莓还
grow on poorly drained, shady alpine slopes and are generally the first to ripen. Salmonberries turn a dark salmon-red in late summer and are quite similar to raspberries.
生长在排水不良、阴凉的高山斜坡上，一般最先成熟。鲑鱼莓在夏末会变成深鲑鱼红色，与覆盆子非常相似。
Bunchberries are good tasting but have been known to upset a stomach or two. Bog cranberries are best after the first frost, especially when they’re a deep purple-deliciously tart. High-bush cranberries are common but are best just before they’re completely ripe. Wild strawberries are even better, if you can get to them before the birds and rodents. The several kinds of bearberries (blue and red) are tasteless except to bears, and the soapberry will remind you of getting caught saying a dirty word as a kid. Pick up Alaska Wild Berry Guide and Cookbook for the complete lowdown on Alaska’s berries.
邦奇莓味道不错，但也有让一两个人胃部不适的情况。沼泽蔓越莓在第一次霜冻后最好吃，尤其是深紫色的时候，酸甜可口。高丛蔓越莓很常见，但最好在完全成熟之前采摘。如果您能赶在鸟类和啮齿类动物之前吃到野草莓，那就更好了。几种熊莓（蓝色和红色）除了对熊来说是无味的，而皂莓会让您想起小时候说脏话被抓的情景。购买《阿拉斯加野生浆果指南和食谱》，了解阿拉斯加浆果的全部信息。

In 1941 the managers of the Alaska Railroad offered a $\mathrm{\$}25$$\mathrm{\$}25$$25\$ 25 prize to the grower of the largest cabbage in the state, and since then cabbage growers have been competing. Usually the largest cabbages at the Alaska State Fair weigh in around 100 pounds, but a world record was set in 2012 when a Palmer man grew a 138-pound cabbage. The state pumpkin record was set in 2019 by a 2,051-pound monstrosity. Ten-pound celery, 3-pound beets, 2-pound turnips, and 1-pound carrots have also been blue-ribbon earners. Find them and more at the Alaska State Fair in Palmer in late August-early September.
1941 年，阿拉斯加铁路公司的经理们向该州最大卷心菜的种植者颁发了 $\mathrm{\$}25$$\mathrm{\$}25$$25\$ 25 奖品，从那时起，卷心菜种植者们就开始了竞争。阿拉斯加州博览会上最大的卷心菜通常在 100 磅左右，但 2012 年帕尔默人种植的 138 磅卷心菜创造了世界纪录。2019 年，一个重达 2051 磅的怪物创造了州南瓜纪录。10磅重的芹菜、3磅重的甜菜、2磅重的萝卜和1磅重的胡萝卜也曾获得蓝带。您可以在 8 月底至 9 月初在帕尔默举行的阿拉斯加州博览会上找到它们以及更多。

If any aspect of Alaska embodies the image of the “last frontier,” it’s the state’s animal kingdom. For millennia, Native Alaskan hunters, with their small-scale weapons and limited needs, had little impact on wildlife populations. Eskimo and Aleut villages subsisted comfortably on fish, small mammals, and one or two whales per year; the interior Athabascan bands did well on a handful of moose and caribou. This all changed in the mid-1700s with the coming of the Russians and Americans. Sea otters, fur seals, and gray whales were quickly hunted to the verge of extinction. By the 1850s the Alaskan musk ox had been annihilated. Wolves, in part because they preyed on the same game as humans, were ruthlessly hunted. Conservation measures have nurtured their numbers, and today Alaska boasts one of the largest concentrations of animal populations remaining on earth. For example, there are nearly twice as many caribou in Alaska as there are people. There’s a moose and a Sitka black-tailed deer for every three people. If 80,000 sheep strikes you as an impressive number, consider 40,000 grizzly bears. Bald and golden eagles are commonplace, and while the magnificent trumpeter swan was believed near extinction in the Lower 48, it was thriving in Alaska. Marine mammals, from orcas to the recovering otters, are common (though they have recently experienced major declines in the Aleutians and western Alaska), and Alaskan waters also contain fish and other sea creatures in unimaginable quantities.
如果说阿拉斯加的任何方面体现了 "最后边疆 "的形象，那就是该州的动物王国。千百年来，阿拉斯加土著猎人使用小规模武器，需求有限，对野生动物种群几乎没有影响。爱斯基摩人和阿留申人的村落每年仅靠鱼类、小型哺乳动物和一、两头鲸鱼维持生计；阿萨巴斯卡人的内陆部落仅靠少量的驼鹿和驯鹿维持生计。17 世纪中期，随着俄罗斯人和美国人的到来，这一切都改变了。海獭、海狗和灰鲸很快被猎杀，濒临灭绝。到 19 世纪 50 年代，阿拉斯加麝牛已经灭绝。狼被无情地捕杀，部分原因是它们捕食的猎物与人类相同。保护措施培育了它们的数量，如今阿拉斯加是地球上现存动物数量最集中的地区之一。例如，阿拉斯加的驯鹿数量几乎是人类数量的两倍。每三个人就有一只驼鹿和一只西特卡黑尾鹿。如果您觉得 8 万只绵羊是个惊人的数字，那么不妨考虑一下 4 万头灰熊。秃鹰和金雕随处可见，当人们认为壮丽的号手天鹅在下 48 州濒临灭绝时，它却在阿拉斯加茁壮成长。海洋哺乳动物，从虎鲸到正在恢复的水獭都很常见（尽管它们最近在阿留申群岛和阿拉斯加西部经历了严重的减少），阿拉斯加水域还蕴藏着数量难以想象的鱼类和其他海洋生物。

Alaska’s wildlife is a major draw for both visitors and residents. The state’s vast stretches of wilderness contain abundant mammals, birds, and fish, including some of the largest and most
阿拉斯加的野生动物是吸引游客和居民的主要因素。阿拉斯加州广袤的荒野中栖息着丰富的哺乳动物、鸟类和鱼类，其中包括一些最大、最古老的鱼类。
magnificent animals in the world. Land mammals such as brown (grizzly) and black bears, caribou, moose, Dall sheep, wolves, and musk oxen are the main attractions, but the state also has incomparable populations of birds, including such favorites as bald eagles, puffins, loons, and sandhill cranes. Marine mammals include seals, Steller sea lions, and sea otters, along with beluga whales, orca (killer) whales, humpback whales, gray whales, and others.
世界上最壮观的动物。陆地哺乳动物主要有棕熊（灰熊）和黑熊、驯鹿、驼鹿、达尔羊、狼和麝牛，但该州也有无与伦比的鸟类种群，包括最受欢迎的白头鹰、海雀、泥鳅和沙丘鹤。海洋哺乳动物包括海豹、斯特勒海狮、海獭以及白鲸、虎鲸、座头鲸、灰鲸等。
The Alaska Wildlife Viewing Guide, by Michelle Sydeman and Annabel Lund, is a useful introduction to finding wild animals. Visit the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s website (www.wildlifeviewing.alaska.gov) for details on dozens of species of Alaskan animals in their “Wildlife Notebook” series, and for descriptions of places to see wildlife. The state also produces regional wildlife-viewing guides, including Anchorage Wildlife Viewing Hot Spots, Kenai Peninsula Wildlife Viewing Trail Guide, and Kachemak Bay Watchable Wildlife Guide. Pick up copies in visitors centers around the state or find them on the website above. In Alaska, wildlife may be encountered up close almost anywhere outdoors. Many animals are well prepared to defend their territories against intruders (you), and even the smallest can bite. Never attempt to feed or touch wildlife. It is seldom good for it, you, or those who follow. Any animal that appears unafraid or “tame” can be quite unpredictable, so keep your distance. One thing you don’t have to worry about is snakes; there are none in Alaska. Surprisingly, however, there are frogs, even above the Arctic Circle.
米歇尔-西德曼（Michelle Sydeman）和安娜贝尔-伦德（Annabel Lund）所著的《阿拉斯加野生动物观赏指南》是一本介绍如何寻找野生动物的实用指南。请访问阿拉斯加鱼类和野生动物部的网站（www.wildlifeviewing.alaska.gov），了解其 "野生动物笔记本 "系列中数十种阿拉斯加动物的详细信息，以及野生动物观赏地点的介绍。该州还编制了地区野生动物观赏指南，包括《安克雷奇野生动物观赏热点》、《基奈半岛野生动物观赏路径指南》和《卡赫马克湾可观赏野生动物指南》。您可在阿拉斯加州各地的游客中心索取，或在上述网站上查找。在阿拉斯加，几乎在户外的任何地方都可以近距离接触野生动物。许多动物都做好了充分准备来保卫自己的领地，抵御入侵者（您），即使是最小的动物也会咬人。切勿试图喂食或触摸野生动物。这对野生动物、您或跟随者都没有好处。任何看似不害怕或 "驯服 "的动物都可能非常难以预测，因此要保持距离。您不用担心的是蛇，阿拉斯加没有蛇。但令人惊讶的是，即使在北极圈以上，也有青蛙。

The brown bear, also called grizzly, is the symbol of the wild country and a measure of its wildness. Grizzlies once roamed all over North America. In 1800 there were over 100,000 of them; today, around 1,000 survive in the Lower 48 . Ironically, a subspecies of the grizzly is the state animal of California, where it is now extinct. Things are very different in Alaska, where 40,000 of these magnificent creatures still inhabit the land.
棕熊，也叫灰熊，是荒野国家的象征，也是衡量其野性的标准。灰熊曾经遍布北美。1800 年，灰熊的数量超过 100,000 头；如今，在美国下 48 州，大约有 1,000 头灰熊存活。具有讽刺意味的是，灰熊的一个亚种是加利福尼亚州的州立动物，而在加利福尼亚，灰熊已经灭绝。阿拉斯加的情况则截然不同，那里仍有 4 万头灰熊栖息。

: moose with calves 2: sea otter in Kachemak Bay 3: brown bears digging clams in Katmai National Park Denali National Park offers some of the most accessible bear-viewing in the state. The estimated 200 Denali grizzlies are still wild, mostly in their natural state. This is especially important for the continued education of the cubs, who are taught how to dig roots, find berries, catch ground squirrels, and take moose calves. However, Denali grizzlies are not afraid of
驼鹿与小鹿 2：卡奇马克湾的海獭 3：卡特迈国家公园里挖蛤蜊的棕熊 德纳利国家公园是全州最容易观赏到熊的地方。估计有 200 头迪纳利灰熊仍处于野生状态，大部分处于自然状态。这对幼熊的持续教育尤为重要，幼熊会学习如何挖树根、寻找浆果、捕捉地面松鼠和叼走驼鹿幼崽。然而，德纳利灰熊并不惧怕
people, and they are extremely curious. One person was killed by a grizzly at Denali in 2012, but this is the only human fatality in the park’s history. Maulings have occurred in Denali and elsewhere in Alaska, usually because of the foolishness of novice hikers, runners, and photographers or as a result of improper food storage. Take care, but don’t be afraid to go hiking.
它们非常好奇。2012 年，有一人在德纳利被灰熊杀死，但这是公园历史上唯一一起人类死亡事件。在德纳利和阿拉斯加其他地方也发生过屠杀事件，通常是由于徒步旅行新手、跑步者和摄影师的愚蠢行为或食物储存不当造成的。小心谨慎，但不要害怕徒步旅行。
The natural grizzly diet is 80 percent vegetarian. They eat berries, willows, and roots, and prey on anything they can take: from ground squirrels to caribou, from foxes to small black bears. And they’re challenged by nothing, except humans with high-powered weapons. Grizzlies are racehorse-fast and have surprising endurance; they need about 50 square miles for home territory and travel several miles each night. During the day they like to eat, sleep in the sunoften on snow patches - and entertain tourists on the shuttle buses.
灰熊的天然食物 80% 是素食。它们吃浆果、柳树和树根，捕食一切可以捕食的东西：从松鼠到驯鹿，从狐狸到小黑熊。除了手持大威力武器的人类，灰熊没有任何对手。灰熊的速度像赛马一样快，耐力惊人；它们需要约 50 平方英里的领地，每晚都要走几英里。白天，它们喜欢吃东西，在阳光下睡觉，经常睡在雪地上，还喜欢在穿梭巴士上逗游客玩。
Grizzlies are solitary creatures. Full-grown boars and sows are seen together only during mating season, in early summer. The gestation period is a little over five months, and the sows give birth in December to 1-3 cubs. The cubs are hairless, weigh one pound each, and remain blind for a week. They stay with the mother for over 2.5 years-two full summers. They’re then chased away sometime before July of the third summer, when the sow is ready to mate again. Contrary to popular belief, bears do not hibernate. They do sleep deeply in dens during the winter, sometimes for weeks. But they often get hungry, lonely, or restless, and step outside to forage for frozen roots, berries, and meat. Sometimes a bear will stay out all winter; that’s the one the Native Alaskans fear the most: the winter bear. Its fur tends to build up a thick layer of ice, rendering it nearly impenetrable, almost bulletproof. And of course, sows give birth in the deep winter, which they’re certainly awake for.
灰熊是独居动物。只有在初夏的交配季节，才能看到成年公熊和母熊在一起。母熊的妊娠期为五个多月，在 12 月份产下 1-3 只幼崽。幼崽无毛，每只重一磅，一周内都是盲的。它们与母熊在一起的时间超过 2.5 年--整整两个夏天。在第三个夏天的七月前，当母熊准备好再次交配时，它们就会被赶走。与人们普遍认为的相反，熊不会冬眠。它们在冬天会在洞穴里沉沉地睡上几个星期。但它们经常会感到饥饿、孤独或烦躁不安，于是走出洞穴觅食冰冻的树根、浆果和肉类。有时，熊会整个冬天都呆在外面，这就是阿拉斯加原住民最害怕的熊--冬熊。它的皮毛会结成厚厚的冰层，几乎坚不可摧，刀枪不入。当然，母熊也会在深冬分娩，它们当然会为此保持清醒。
Grizzlies and brown bears were once thought to be different species, but are now considered the same. The basic difference is in size, which is due to habitat. Grizzlies themselves are the world’s largest land omnivore, growing to heights of 6-7 feet and weighing in at 500-600 pounds. However, they’re the smaller of the two because they live in the interior and feed mostly on vegetation. Brown bears are coastal, and with a rich source of fish protein, they have achieved near mythical sizes. Kodiak brown bears retain a reputation for being the largest, reaching heights of over 10 feet and weights of up to 1,400 pounds.
灰熊和棕熊曾被认为是不同的物种，但现在被认为是同一物种。它们的基本区别在于体型，这与栖息地有关。灰熊本身是世界上最大的陆地杂食动物，可长到 6-7 英尺高，体重达 500-600 磅。不过，灰熊的体型较小，因为它们生活在内陆地区，主要以植被为食。棕熊生活在沿海地区，以丰富的鱼类蛋白质为食，因此它们的体型近乎神话。科迪亚克棕熊以体型最大而著称，身高超过 10 英尺，体重高达 1,400 磅。
Hiking in bear country requires special precautions. A number of areas offer outstanding brown bear viewing around Alaska; the most famous places are the McNeil River, Katmai National Park, and Denali National Park.
在熊的领地徒步旅行需要特别注意。阿拉斯加有很多地方都能观赏到棕熊，其中最著名的是麦克尼尔河、卡特迈国家公园和德纳利国家公园。

Black bears are found in most forested parts of Alaska. They are distinguished from grizzlies and brown bears by their size (much smaller), the shape of their face (much narrower), and the lack of a shoulder hump. Black bears can actually be more dangerous to people than grizzlies: There have been more attacks and maulings in Alaska by black bears than by brown. Polar
黑熊分布在阿拉斯加大部分森林地区。它们与灰熊和棕熊的区别在于体型（小得多）、脸型（窄得多）和没有肩峰。实际上，黑熊比灰熊对人类更危险：在阿拉斯加，黑熊袭击和啮咬人的次数比棕熊多。北极熊
bears are not found in Southcentral or interior Alaska. You’ll need to visit the North Slope around Barrow or Kaktovik to see these amazing animals.
阿拉斯加中南部和内陆地区没有熊。您需要前往巴罗（Barrow）或卡克托维克（Kaktovik）附近的北坡，才能看到这些神奇的动物。

The moose is the largest member of the deer family, and Alaska has the largest moose. A bull moose in his prime gets to be about seven feet tall and weighs around 1,200 pounds, all from eating willow stems-about 30 pounds per day. They also eat aspen and birch, but willow is the staple of choice. The antlers, which are bone, are shed and renewed every year. Full-size antlers can weigh up to 70 pounds-that’s mostly in September during the rut, or mating time. Bulls of near-equal rank and size butt their heads together to vie for dominance. You want to be really careful of bulls then; they are touchy. The cows have one or two calves, rarely three, in May, and that’s when you want to be really careful of the cows too. The calves stay with the cow exactly one year; then she chases away the yearlings. Sometimes at the start of the summer season, you’ll spot a huge pregnant cow with a frisky yearling on her heels, and you’ve never seen a more hassled-looking expression on an animal’s face. But that’s family life. Moose don’t cover too much territory-about 30 miles a year, mostly in the forest, which provides natural defense against predators. The word moose comes from the Massachusetts Algonquian dialect and means “muncher of little twigs.” By the way, the little flap of hair under the moose’s chin is known as the “moostache.” (Just kidding; it’s really called the “dewlap.”) Harsh winters are deadly to moose. Deep snow and bitter cold can cause one in three moose in central Alaska to perish. Annually, hundreds of moose make their last stand along the snowless railroad tracks between Seward and Fairbanks and are killed by trains that don’t stop for them. Hundreds of others starve to death. Those hit by cars along roadways are butchered and distributed to local people.
驼鹿是鹿科动物中最大的成员，阿拉斯加拥有最大的驼鹿。一头壮年公驼鹿身高约 7 英尺，体重约 1200 磅，全部靠吃柳树茎--每天约 30 磅。它们也吃杨树和桦树，但柳树是它们的主食。鹿角是骨质的，每年都会脱落和更新。全尺寸的鹿角可重达 70 磅--这主要是在发情期或交配期的 9 月份。等级和体型接近的公牛会把头对在一起，争夺霸主地位。这时你要特别小心公牛，它们很容易动怒。母牛在五月会产下一到两头小牛，很少会产下三头，这时您也要非常小心母牛。小牛会和母牛在一起整整一年，然后母牛会赶走小牛。有时，在夏季开始时，你会发现一头巨大的怀孕母牛带着一头活泼的小牛跟在后面，你从未见过动物的脸上会有如此焦急的表情。但这就是家庭生活。驼鹿的领地并不大--每年大约 30 英里，大部分在森林里，这为它们提供了抵御掠食者的天然屏障。驼鹿这个词来自马萨诸塞州的阿尔冈基方言，意思是 "啃小树枝的人"。顺便提一下，驼鹿下巴下面的那一小撮毛被称为 "驼峰"。(开个玩笑，它其实叫 "露唇"）严冬对驼鹿来说是致命的。深雪和严寒会导致阿拉斯加中部三分之一的驼鹿死亡。每年都有数百头驼鹿沿着苏厄德和费尔班克斯之间没有积雪的铁轨做最后的挣扎，结果被没有为它们停车的火车撞死。还有数百头驼鹿饿死。在公路上被汽车撞到的驼鹿则被屠宰后分发给当地人。
If Alaska moose are the world’s largest, Kenai Peninsula moose are Alaska’s largest. A Kenai moose holds the Alaskan record: at 10-11 years old, his antlers were just under 75 inches wide, and he weighed 1,500-1,600 pounds.
如果说阿拉斯加驼鹿是世界上最大的驼鹿，那么基奈半岛的驼鹿就是阿拉斯加最大的驼鹿。一只基奈驼鹿保持着阿拉斯加的纪录：10-11 岁时，它的鹿角宽不到 75 英寸，重达 1,500-1,600 磅。
Kenai National Wildlife Refuge was specifically established to protect moose, and these massive animals are a common sight along Kenai Peninsula roads at dusk, particularly in the winter. Other places to watch for moose are within the Anchorage Bowl and in the MatanuskaSusitna Valley northeast of Anchorage. Drive with care, since moose can suddenly step onto the road without warning, and their massive bulk means that a collision could be fatal to both the moose and people in the vehicle.
基奈国家野生动物保护区是专门为保护驼鹿而建立的，这些体型庞大的动物是黄昏时分基奈半岛公路上常见的景象，尤其是在冬季。安克雷奇碗（Anchorage Bowl）内和安克雷奇东北部的马坦努斯卡-苏西特纳山谷（Matanuska-Susitna Valley）也是观察驼鹿的好去处。驾驶时要小心，因为驼鹿会在毫无征兆的情况下突然踏上公路，而且它们体型庞大，一旦发生碰撞，驼鹿和车上的人都可能丧命。
Moose can be very aggressive, particularly in the winter when food is scarce. A number of people have been killed by moose attacks, even in Anchorage. Always give moose a wide berth, especially if you’re walking, on a bike or skis, or with a dog. If a moose appears ready to attack, quickly hide behind a tree, car, or other obstruction. Pepper spray may be effective if all else fails.
驼鹿的攻击性很强，尤其是在食物匮乏的冬季。即使在安克雷奇，也有不少人死于驼鹿的攻击。一定要对驼鹿敬而远之，尤其是当您步行、骑车、滑雪或带着狗时。如果驼鹿似乎准备攻击，请迅速躲到树、汽车或其他障碍物后面。如果其他办法都不奏效，胡椒喷雾可能会有效。

Caribou are travelin’ fools. They’re extremely flighty animals-restless, tireless, fast, and graceful. Run and eat, run and eat is pretty much all they do-oh, yeah, and reproduce. Reindeer, although of the same species, are smaller and often domesticated. Caribou are peaceful critters, and they’ll outrun and outdistance their predators, mostly wolves, rather than fight. They like to travel in groups, unlike moose, which are loners. And they cover 10 times as much territory. Their herding and migrating imperatives are similar to those of the plains bison; they gather in large numbers and think nothing of running 50 miles, almost on a lark. Caribou are extremely well adapted to their winter environment. They have huge nasal passages and respiratory systems in order to breathe the bitterly cold winter air. Thick fur covers almost every inch of their bodies; the fur itself is protected by large, hollow, oily guard hairs. This tends to make caribou look much larger than they really are; a good-sized bull weighs 400-500 pounds, a cow about half that. Caribou have the richest milk in the animal kingdom: It’s 20 percent fat. They’ve also got huge prancing hooves, immortalized in the Santa Claus myth, which are excellent for running, swimming, disco dancing, and pawing at the snow to uncover the moss and lichens on which they subsist all through the harsh Arctic winter. The word caribou comes from the Maine Algonquian dialect and means “scraping hooves.”
驯鹿是旅行中的傻瓜。它们是非常善于飞行的动物，不知疲倦地奔跑，速度极快，姿态优美。奔跑、进食、奔跑、进食几乎就是它们的全部活动--哦，对了，还有繁殖。驯鹿虽然是同一物种，但体型较小，通常被驯化。驯鹿是一种和平的动物，它们会跑得比天敌（主要是狼）更快、更远，而不会打架。它们喜欢成群结队地旅行，不像驼鹿那样独来独往。它们的领地面积是驼鹿的十倍。它们成群结队迁徙的必要性与平原野牛相似；它们聚集在一起，不惜奔跑 50 英里，几乎是为了赶路。驯鹿非常适应冬季环境。它们有巨大的鼻腔和呼吸系统，以便呼吸冬季严寒的空气。厚厚的皮毛几乎覆盖了它们身体的每一寸肌肤；皮毛本身由大片中空的油性护毛保护着。这往往使驯鹿看起来比实际体型大得多；一头体型较大的公驯鹿重达 400-500 磅，母驯鹿则只有公驯鹿的一半。驯鹿拥有动物王国中最丰富的乳汁：脂肪含量高达 20%。驯鹿还长着巨大的蹄子，这在圣诞老人的神话中永垂不朽。驯鹿的蹄子非常适合奔跑、游泳、跳迪斯科舞，还能在雪地上抓出苔藓和地衣，它们就是靠这些苔藓和地衣度过严酷的北极冬季的。驯鹿一词源于缅因州的阿尔冈基方言，意思是 "刮蹄"。
The caribou is the only member of the deer family whose females grow antlers. Babies are on their feet and nursing within an hour of birth, and at one week they can run 20 miles. If they can’t, they’ll most likely die, since the herd won’t wait. But this helps to keep the herd healthy, controls population growth, and provides food for the carnivores.
驯鹿是鹿科动物中唯一雌性长角的动物。驯鹿宝宝在出生后一小时内就能站起来吃奶，一周后就能跑 20 英里。如果跑不动，它们很可能会死掉，因为鹿群不会等它们。但这有助于保持鹿群健康，控制种群增长，并为食肉动物提供食物。
Native Alaskans are among the caribou’s predators. Historically, Native Alaskans ate the meat raw, roasted, and stewed. They ate all the organs, even the half-digested greens from the stomach. The little gobs of fat from behind the eyes were considered a delicacy. They used almost exclusively caribou hide for clothes, rugs, blankets, and tents. The leg skins were used to make mukluks; the long strands of stringy sinew provided sewing thread.
阿拉斯加土著是驯鹿的捕食者之一。历史上，阿拉斯加土著人生吃、烤着吃、炖着吃驯鹿肉。他们吃掉驯鹿的所有内脏，甚至连胃里消化了一半的蔬菜也不放过。眼睛后面的小块脂肪被视为美味佳肴。他们几乎只用驯鹿皮做衣服、地毯、毯子和帐篷。腿部的皮用来制作木鹿皮；长长的缕状筋则用来做缝纫线。
Nearly one million caribou roam across Alaska, with the largest herds in the Arctic. They are also commonly seen within Denali National Park, along the Denali Highway, and in the Kenai area.
近 100 万头驯鹿漫步在阿拉斯加，其中北极地区的驯鹿群最大。在德纳利国家公园、德纳利公路沿线和基奈地区也经常能看到它们的身影。

Named for William H. Dall, who surveyed the lower Yukon in 1866, Dall sheep are sometimes called Alaska bighorn sheep, because the Rocky Mountain bighorn is a closely related species. Distinguished by their brilliant white color, the rams grow large curved horns, formed from a specialized skin structure made up of a compacted mass of hair and oil. The horns aren’t shed; instead the sheep add another ring to them yearly, so the longer the horns, the older the ram, and the more dominant within the herd. The rams can weigh as much as 175 pounds; the ewes have small spiked horns and average 120 pounds.
达尔羊以威廉-H-达尔（William H. Dall）的名字命名，他于 1866 年勘测了育空河下游地区，达尔羊有时也被称为阿拉斯加大角羊，因为落基山大角羊与达尔羊是近亲物种。公羊以其亮丽的白色而与众不同，长着弯曲的大角，由毛发和油脂紧密结合的特殊皮肤结构形成。犄角不会脱落，相反，羊每年都会再长一圈，因此犄角越长，公羊的年龄就越大，在羊群中就越占优势。公羊的体重可达 175 磅；母羊的角很小，平均为 120 磅。
Their habitat is the high alpine tundra, and they subsist on grasses, mosses, lichens, and flowers. Their bird’s-eye view provides an excellent defense. They’re also magnificent mountain
它们的栖息地是高山苔原，以草、苔藓、地衣和花朵为生。它们的鸟瞰视角提供了绝佳的防御。它们还是壮丽的高山
climbers. Roughly 70,000 Dall sheep reside in the Chugach, Kenai, Alaska, and Wrangell mountain ranges. During summer, the rams migrate high into the ranges, leaving the prime lower grazing grounds for the ewes and lambs. It’s natural that they migrate, the same way it’s natural that they have predators. Their alpine tundra habitat is very fragile, and it can take decades to regenerate after overgrazing. Migration and predation thus keep the flock healthy, control population growth, and guarantee the survival of the habitat.
登山者。约有 7 万只达尔羊居住在丘加奇、基奈、阿拉斯加和弗兰格尔山脉。夏季，公羊迁徙到山脉的高处，把低处的优质牧场留给母羊和小羊。它们迁徙是很自然的，就像它们有天敌一样。它们的高山苔原栖息地非常脆弱，过度放牧后可能需要几十年才能再生。因此，迁徙和捕食可以保持羊群健康，控制种群增长，保证栖息地的生存。
Dall sheep inhabit mountain hillsides throughout much of Alaska. They are frequently seen on rocky slopes in Denali National Park, near Cooper Landing on the Kenai Peninsula, and along Turnagain Arm, 20 miles south of Anchorage.
达尔羊栖息在阿拉斯加大部分地区的山坡上。在德纳利国家公园、基奈半岛库珀兰丁附近以及安克雷奇以南 20 英里的特纳金臂沿线的岩石山坡上，经常可以看到它们的身影。

Wolves have traditionally been one of the most misunderstood, misrepresented, and maligned mammals in both fact and fable. We’ve come a long way from the days when it was believed that wolves were innately evil, with the visage of the devil himself, eating their hapless preyor little girls in red hoods-alive. But it wasn’t until the mid-1940s, when wildlife biologist Adolph Murie began a long-term and systematic study of the wolves in Mount McKinley National Park, that all the misconceptions of the accepted lore about wolves began to change. For three years Murie tramped mainly on the plains below Polychrome Pass and became extremely intimate with several wolf families. (His book, The Wolves of Mount McKinley, published in 1944, is still considered a classic natural history text.) Though Murie concluded that a delicate balance is established between predator and prey to their mutual advantage, declining Dall sheep populations, political pressure, and, indeed, tradition forced the National Park Service to kill wolves, which were considered, against Murie’s conclusions, to be the cause of the sheep decline. Typically, though, the wolf population was in just as dire straits as the sheep, and for several years no wolves were killed in the feds’ traps because of their scarcity.
无论在事实还是寓言中，狼历来都是最容易被误解、歪曲和诽谤的哺乳动物之一。我们已经走过了漫长的道路，过去人们认为狼是天生的恶魔，长着魔鬼的面孔，吃掉它们无助的猎物，或者吃掉戴红色头巾的小女孩。但直到 20 世纪 40 年代中期，野生生物学家阿道夫-穆里开始对麦金利山国家公园的狼群进行长期、系统的研究后，人们对狼的所有误解才开始改变。在长达三年的时间里，穆里主要在多色山口下的平原上奔波，与几个狼家族建立了深厚的感情。(他于 1944 年出版的《麦金利山的狼》一书至今仍被视为经典的自然历史著作）。虽然穆里得出的结论是捕食者和猎物之间建立了微妙的平衡，互惠互利，但达勒羊数量的减少、政治压力以及传统迫使国家公园管理局不得不捕杀狼群，因为狼群被认为是羊群减少的原因，这与穆里的结论相悖。但通常情况下，狼的数量和绵羊的数量一样处于水深火热之中，由于狼的数量稀少，有好几年联邦调查局的捕猎队都没有捕杀狼。
Since then, many researchers and writers have come to incisive conclusions about the wolf. It has been determined that their social systems-within the pack and with their prey-are amazingly complex and sophisticated. The alpha male and female are the central players in the pack, surrounded by 4-7 pups, yearlings, and other adults. The dominant female receives a long involved courtship from the dominant male (though he might not necessarily be the biological father of the pups). Territories can be as small as 200 square miles and as large as 800 square miles, depending on a host of influences.
从那时起，许多研究人员和作家对狼得出了精辟的结论。人们发现，狼群内部以及狼与猎物之间的社会系统复杂而精密，令人惊叹。雄性首领和雌性首领是狼群中的核心人物，周围有 4-7 只幼狼、一岁大的狼和其他成年狼。雌性首领会接受雄性首领长时间的求爱（尽管雄性首领不一定是幼崽的亲生父亲）。领地可以小到 200 平方英里，也可以大到 800 平方英里，这取决于一系列的影响因素。
With the advent of radio collaring and tracking, the movements of individual wolves and packs have continually surprised wildlife biologists. Wolves often travel 5-10 miles per hour for hours at a time. In a matter of days, an individual cut loose from a pack can wind up 500 miles away. Thus wolves are able to select and populate suitable habitats quickly.
随着无线电项圈和追踪技术的出现，单只狼和狼群的行动不断给野生生物学家带来惊喜。狼群经常以每小时 5-10 英里的速度行进，每次行进数小时。在短短几天内，从狼群中逃出的个体就能到达 500 英里以外的地方。因此，狼群能够迅速选择合适的栖息地，并在其中繁衍生息。
Alaska’s 7,500-10,000 wolves are thriving, even though roughly 15 percent of them are harvested yearly by trappers. They can be found on the Kenai Peninsula, in the Talkeetna
阿拉斯加有 7,500 至 10,000 头狼，尽管每年约有 15% 的狼被捕猎者捕杀，但它们仍在茁壮成长。它们分布在基奈半岛、塔尔基特纳地区和阿拉斯加州的阿拉斯加州。

Mountains, and in Chugach State Park near Anchorage. Denali National Park offers travelers the best chance to see a wolf from the road system.
山脉，以及安克雷奇附近的丘加奇州立公园。迪纳利国家公园为游客提供了从公路系统看到狼的最佳机会。
Captive wolves can be seen at the Alaska Zoo (www.alaskazoo.org) in Anchorage. A highly controversial state-sponsored hunting program has targeted wolves in some parts of the state to increase the survival of caribou and moose. The program includes the aerial killing of wolves and is widely opposed by environmental groups but applauded by some hunting organizations.
在安克雷奇的阿拉斯加动物园（www.alaskazoo.org）可以看到人工饲养的狼。阿拉斯加州发起了一项极具争议的狩猎计划，该计划针对该州某些地区的狼群，以提高驯鹿和驼鹿的存活率。该计划包括空中捕杀狼群，遭到环保组织的广泛反对，但却受到一些狩猎组织的欢迎。

The musk ox is a stocky, long-haired animal with a slight shoulder hump and a very short tail. Despite their name, musk oxen have no musk glands and are not oxen. The largest member of the sheep family, this shaggy prehistoric-looking creature was abundant in the north country until it was hunted into extinction by the mid-1800s. In the 1930s, several dozen musk oxen were transplanted from Greenland to Nunivak Island in the Bering Sea. The musk oxen thrived, and the resident Native Alaskans used the soft underwool to establish a small cottage industry knitting sweaters, scarves, and caps. And that’s what it would have remained, a small cottage industry, if it hadn’t been for Dr. John J. Teal Jr., a student of Arctic explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson. Stefansson recognized the potential of musk ox wool and inspired Teal to experiment with domesticating them. After spending 10 years with musk oxen on his farm in Vermont, Teal concluded that they were amiable, hardy, and easy to domesticate. So in 1964 he started the Musk Ox Project at the University of Alaska in Fairbanks.
麝牛是一种体型粗壮、长毛的动物，肩部有轻微的驼峰，尾巴很短。尽管麝牛的名字叫麝香牛，但它们没有麝香腺，也不是牛。麝牛是绵羊家族中体型最大的成员，这种毛发蓬松的史前动物曾在北部地区大量出现，直到 19 世纪中期被猎杀殆尽。20 世纪 30 年代，几十头麝牛从格陵兰岛移植到白令海的努尼瓦克岛。麝牛茁壮成长，居住在岛上的阿拉斯加原住民利用柔软的麝牛毛编织毛衣、围巾和帽子，形成了一个小型的家庭手工业。如果不是北极探险家 Vilhjalmur Stefansson 的学生小约翰-J-蒂尔博士（Dr. John J. Teal Jr.斯特凡松认识到麝牛毛的潜力，启发蒂尔尝试驯化麝牛。在佛蒙特州的农场与麝香牛相处了 10 年后，蒂尔得出结论：麝香牛和蔼可亲、生命力顽强、易于驯化。因此，他于 1964 年在费尔班克斯的阿拉斯加大学启动了麝牛项目。
In 1984 the project moved to a farm in the Matanuska Valley, where musk oxen are bred to produce qiviut (KEE-vee-oot), the soft underwool, which is renowned in Alaska for its insulation (eight times warmer by weight than sheep’s wool) and tactile (softer than the finest cashmere) properties. The qiviut is collected from the animals in the spring. The raw wool is sent to a mill in Connecticut and then sold to Oomingmak (a Native Alaskan word for musk ox, meaning “bearded one”; www.qiviut.com), a co-op consisting of members in villages spread throughout western Alaska. Here the qiviut is knitted into garments, which are sold at retail outlets in Anchorage and at the farm near Palmer.
1984 年，该项目搬迁到马坦努斯卡山谷的一个农场，在那里饲养麝牛，以生产柔软的下层羊毛 qiviut（KEE-vee-oot），这种羊毛在阿拉斯加以其保暖性（按重量计算比绵羊毛保暖八倍）和触感（比最好的羊绒还要柔软）而闻名。qiviut 是在春天从动物身上采集的。原毛被送往康涅狄格州的一家工厂，然后卖给 Oomingmak（阿拉斯加原住民对麝牛的称呼，意为 "长胡子的牛"；www.qiviut.com），这是一个由遍布阿拉斯加西部村庄的成员组成的合作社。在这里，qiviut 被编织成服装，在安克雷奇的零售店和帕尔默附近的农场出售。
Today, wild musk oxen can be found on the Seward Peninsula near Nome, Nunivak and Nelson Islands, the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, the North Slope near Prudhoe Bay, and the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. The best place to see them up close is the Musk Ox Farm in Palmer (www.muskoxfarm.org).
如今，在诺姆附近的苏厄德半岛、努尼瓦克岛和纳尔逊岛、育空-库斯科克维姆三角洲、普拉德霍湾附近的北坡以及北极国家野生动物保护区都能找到野生麝牛。近距离观赏麝牛的最佳地点是帕尔默的麝牛农场（www.muskoxfarm.org）。

Alaska’s only native cat, the lynx is the northern version of the bobcat. Weighing around 20-30 pounds, these extremely secretive animals prey primarily on snowshoe hare, a species that undergoes an 8- to 11-year cycle of abundance. Lynx numbers fluctuate with those of hare but lag one or two years behind. When a hare population crashes, lynx numbers soon decline, and they sometimes travel up to 400 miles in search of food. Although snowshoe hare are an
猞猁是阿拉斯加唯一的本土猫科动物，是山猫的北方版本。猞猁重约 20-30 磅，这种极其隐秘的动物主要捕食雪兔，雪兔的数量以 8 到 11 年为一个周期。山猫的数量会随着野兔的数量而波动，但会落后一到两年。当野兔数量减少时，猞猁的数量也会很快下降，它们有时会长途跋涉 400 英里寻找食物。虽然雪鞋兔是一种
important prey for lynx, when they are scarce, lynx hunt grouse, ptarmigan, squirrels, and rodents, and may even take larger animals such as caribou or Dall sheep.
猞猁的重要猎物，当它们稀少时，猞猁会捕食松鸡、箭猪、松鼠和啮齿类动物，甚至可能捕食驯鹿或达尔羊等大型动物。
Lynx are sometimes seen during long periods of summer daylight, especially in years when they are abundant. Lynx have large broad feet that function as snowshoes for winter hunting and traveling.
有时，在夏季漫长的白天也能看到猞猁，尤其是在猞猁数量较多的年份。猞猁有一双宽大的脚，在冬季狩猎和旅行时可用作雪鞋。

Ground squirrels and marmots are true hibernators: Unlike other mammals such as black, grizzly, and polar bears, they sleep for six months straight in a deep coma. This separation between life and death is one of the thinnest lines in the animal world. A ground squirrel’s heart slows to about six beats a minute, and its body temperature lowers to just above freezing, around ${38}^{\circ }$${38}^{\circ }$38^(@)38^{\circ} F. (In fact, a zoologist at the University of Alaska Fairbanks has found that the core temperature of the arctic ground squirrel, the northernmost hibernator, can drop to as low as ${26}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${26}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$26^(@)F26^{\circ} \mathrm{F}-six degrees below freezing! Of course, the squirrels don’t freeze; they “supercool.”) The hibernating squirrel takes a breath every couple of minutes. It uses up half its body weight since it isn’t eating. If you stuck a needle in a hibernating ground squirrel’s paw, it would take the animal about 10 minutes to begin to feel it.
地松鼠和旱獭是真正的冬眠动物：与黑熊、灰熊和北极熊等其他哺乳动物不同，它们会连续六个月处于深度昏睡状态。这种生与死的分离是动物世界中最细微的界限之一。地松鼠的心跳会减慢到大约每分钟六次，体温也会降低到略高于零度，大约 ${38}^{\circ }$${38}^{\circ }$38^(@)38^{\circ} 华氏度（事实上，阿拉斯加费尔班克斯大学的一位动物学家发现，北极地松鼠--最北的冬眠动物--的核心温度可以低至 ${26}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$${26}^{\circ }\mathrm{F}$26^(@)F26^{\circ} \mathrm{F} --零下六度！当然，松鼠不会被冻死，它们会 "超低温"）。冬眠的松鼠每隔几分钟就会呼吸一次。由于没有进食，它消耗掉了一半的体重。如果在冬眠的松鼠爪子上扎针，大约 10 分钟后松鼠才会有感觉。
Ground squirrels provide a large part of the grizzly and wolf diet, and that of scavenger birds as well, since they’re a common type of roadkill.
地松鼠是灰熊和狼的主要食物，也是食腐鸟类的主要食物，因为它们是常见的路边猎物。
Marmots, similar to woodchucks, are sometimes mistaken for wolverines. They live in large rock outcroppings for protection and have a piercing whistle, which warns of approaching predators or other possible danger. Look for marmots around Polychrome Pass in Denali National Park.
旱獭与柴鸡相似，有时会被误认为狼獾。它们生活在大岩石露头处，以寻求保护，并发出刺耳的哨声，警告捕食者或其他可能的危险靠近。在迪纳利国家公园的多色山口附近寻找旱獭。
Alaska has a number of other members of the rodent family: shrews, mice, voles, lemmings, and porcupines. Long-tailed and least weasels occupy a wide habitat in the taiga and tundra. Martens are another member of the weasel family, similar to, though much more aggressive than, mink; the pine marten is one of Alaska’s most valuable furbearers. Wolverines are in attendance, though you’d be very lucky to see one. Red foxes are common in the interior and Southcentral Alaska, and you’re likely to see one at Denali National Park; the white arctic fox is a gorgeous animal, though you’ll only see one in pictures.
阿拉斯加还有许多其他啮齿类动物：鼩鼱、小鼠、田鼠、旅鼠和豪猪。长尾黄鼠狼和小黄鼠狼在针叶林和苔原中占据着广阔的栖息地。松貂是黄鼠狼家族的另一个成员，与水貂相似，但比水貂更具攻击性；松貂是阿拉斯加最珍贵的毛皮动物之一。狼獾也有出没，不过能看到一只就已经非常幸运了。红狐狸在阿拉斯加内陆和中南部很常见，您很可能在德纳利国家公园看到一只；白北极狐是一种美丽的动物，不过您只能在照片上看到一只。

Marine mammals are found all along the Alaskan coast. Sea otters are frequently found in harbors, bays, and inlets, particularly around kelp beds. Good places to look for whales, seals, sea otters, sea lions, porpoises, and other marine mammals are the Prince William Sound out of Whittier, Kachemak Bay near Homer, and Kenai Fjords National Park. Only Native Alaskans have the legal right to hunt marine mammals.
海洋哺乳动物遍布阿拉斯加海岸。海獭经常出没于港口、海湾和入海口，尤其是在海带海床周围。寻找鲸鱼、海豹、海獭、海狮、鼠海豚和其他海洋哺乳动物的好去处是惠提尔外的威廉王子湾、荷马附近的卡西马克湾和基奈峡湾国家公园。只有阿拉斯加原住民才有狩猎海洋哺乳动物的合法权利。

A marine member of the weasel family, the sea otter had one characteristic that would seal its doom: a long, wide, beautiful pelt that’s one of the warmest, most luxurious, and durable furs in
海獭是黄鼠狼家族的海洋成员，它有一个注定要灭亡的特征：长而宽的美丽皮毛，是世界上最温暖、最奢华、最耐用的毛皮之一。
existence. Otter fur catalyzed the Russian promyshlenniki to begin overrunning the Aleutians in the mid-late 18th century, sealing the doom of the Aleuts as well as the otters. In 1803, Alexander Baranov shipped 15,000 pelts back to eastern Russia. Up until the 1840s, otter hunting was the primary industry in the Pacific, and when the Americans bought Alaska in 1867, nearly one million otters had been killed in the northern Pacific.
存在。18 世纪中后期，水獭皮促使俄罗斯人开始侵占阿留申群岛，阿留申人和水獭的命运就此注定。1803 年，亚历山大-巴拉诺夫（Alexander Baranov）将 1.5 万张水獭皮运回俄罗斯东部。直到 19 世纪 40 年代，捕猎水獭一直是太平洋地区的主要产业，当美国人在 1867 年买下阿拉斯加时，北太平洋地区已有近一百万只水獭被杀害。
During the extreme lawless period in the last quarter of the 19th century, the otters were annihilated. In 1906 schooners cruised the North Pacific for months without taking a single pelt. In 1910 a crack crew of 40 Aleut hunters managed to harvest 16 otters. In 1911 otters were added to the International Fur Seal Treaty, giving them complete protection from everybody. Small, isolated populations of otters had managed to survive in the western Aleutians, and their numbers have increased over the past century to roughly 100,000 today. Approximately 90 percent of the world’s sea otter population can be found in coastal Alaska. For more on the current situation, visit the website of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (http://alaska.fws.gov/fisheries/mmm [URL inactive]).
在 19 世纪最后 25 年无法无天的极端时期，水獭被消灭殆尽。1906 年，双桅帆船在北太平洋巡航数月，却没有捕获到一张水獭皮。1910 年，一支由 40 名阿留申猎人组成的精干船队成功捕获了 16 只水獭。1911 年，水獭被列入《国际毛皮封印条约》，使它们受到全面保护，不受任何人侵犯。在阿留申群岛西部，小规模的、孤立的水獭种群得以生存，它们的数量在过去的一个世纪里增加到今天的大约 10 万只。世界上大约 90% 的海獭都生活在阿拉斯加沿海地区。有关当前情况的更多信息，请访问美国鱼类和野生动物管理局网站 ( http://alaska.fws.gov/fisheries/mmm [URL 无效])。

George Wilhelm Steller was the naturalist aboard Vitus Bering’s 1742 exploration of Alaska, and the first European to step on Alaskan soil. Two marine mammals ended up with his name: the Steller’s sea cow, a cold-water relative of the manatee, and the Steller sea lion. The sea cow was driven to extinction just 26 years later, a casualty of not being afraid of humans and the tasty flavor of its flesh. Today, the sea lion in much of Alaska is equally endangered. Steller sea lions are pinnipeds-marine mammals with flippers, not feet. Males can weigh up to 2,000 pounds; females peak at 600 pounds. Sea lions eat several kinds of fish, but mostly pollock. They range across the North Pacific from northern Japan and Siberia all the way to California. These playful but powerful animals were abundant in western Alaska waters until quite recently. In the 1960s, for example, an estimated 177,000 sea lions lived in the Gulf of Alaska and along the Aleutians. Commercial hunting was halted in the mid-1970s, but the population continued to drop by more than 80 percent. By 2004, just 45,000 survived. The western Alaska population was officially listed as endangered in 1997, while sea lion populations in southeast Alaska and farther south to California are considered threatened. Researchers are unsure why Steller sea lions are disappearing at such an alarming rate, and there are a multitude of possible causes-overfishing, toxic chemicals, and predation by sharks and killer whales. Most likely it is some combination of factors, but if something isn’t done, the southwest Alaska population could be headed for extinction. Learn more about these fascinating animals-including the latest research-at the National Marine Fisheries Service’s website (www.fakr.noaa.gov/protectedresources).
乔治-威廉-斯特勒是维图斯-白令 1742 年探索阿拉斯加时的博物学家，也是第一个踏上阿拉斯加土地的欧洲人。有两种海洋哺乳动物最终以他的名字命名：海牛（海牛的冷水亲戚）和斯特勒海狮。仅仅 26 年后，海牛就灭绝了，因为它不怕人类，而且肉质鲜美。如今，阿拉斯加大部分地区的海狮同样濒临灭绝。斯特勒海狮是一种拥有鳍而不是脚的海洋哺乳动物。雄性海狮体重可达 2000 磅，雌性海狮最高可达 600 磅。海狮吃几种鱼，但主要是狭鳕。它们的活动范围横跨北太平洋，从日本北部和西伯利亚一直到加利福尼亚。直到最近，阿拉斯加西部水域还盛产这些顽皮而又强壮的动物。例如，在 20 世纪 60 年代，估计有 17.7 万只海狮生活在阿拉斯加湾和阿留申群岛沿岸。20 世纪 70 年代中期停止了商业捕猎，但海狮数量继续下降了 80% 以上。到 2004 年，仅存 45,000 只。阿拉斯加西部的海狮种群于 1997 年被正式列为濒危物种，而阿拉斯加东南部和更南边加利福尼亚的海狮种群则被视为濒危物种。研究人员不清楚为什么斯特勒海狮会以如此惊人的速度消失，可能的原因有很多--捕捞、有毒化学品、鲨鱼和虎鲸的捕食。最有可能的是各种因素的综合作用，但如果不采取措施，阿拉斯加西南部的海狮种群可能会走向灭绝。了解有关这些迷人动物的更多信息--包括最新研究--请访问国家海洋渔业服务网站（www.fakr.noaa.gov/protectedresources）。

The largest summer marine visitors to Alaska are the whales. Each spring gray whales are seen migrating north from along the coast off Seward; in the fall they return south. Also in the
阿拉斯加夏季最大的海洋访客是鲸鱼。每年春天，人们会看到灰鲸从苏厄德附近的海岸向北迁徙；秋天，它们又返回南方。同样在
spring, humpback whales move north from Hawaii. The humpback is easily distinguished by its humplike dorsal fin, large flippers, and huge tail, which shows as it dives. These 50 -footlong creatures often breach (jump) or beat the surface of the water with their tails, as if trying to send messages. Smaller ( 30 -foot) minke whales are also common.
春天，座头鲸从夏威夷向北迁徙。座头鲸的背鳍呈驼峰状，鳍大，尾巴巨大，下潜时尾巴会露出来，很容易辨认。这些长达 50 英尺的鲸鱼经常冲破水面（跳跃）或用尾巴拍打水面，似乎在试图传递信息。体型较小（30 英尺）的小须鲸也很常见。

1: humpback whales 2: sea lions hauled out on Prince William Sound
1: 座头鲸 2: 在威廉王子湾栖息的海狮

The killer whale (orca), which is not actually a whale but the largest of the dolphins (up to 24 feet long), travels in groups hunting fish and marine mammals. Its six-foot-high triangular dorsal fin and its black-and-white piebald pattern make it easily identifiable.
虎鲸（orca）实际上并不是鲸鱼，而是海豚中最大的一种（长达 24 英尺），它成群结队地捕食鱼类和海洋哺乳动物。它的三角形背鳍有六英尺高，身上有黑白相间的斑纹，很容易辨认。
Look for beluga whales in Turnagain Arm along the Seward Highway south of Anchorage. These small white whales are approximately 15 feet long, with a blunt head. Although belugas are doing well in other parts of the North Pacific, the distinctive population within Cook Inlet is critically endangered, with just 300 individuals surviving; it had four times as many back in the 1970s.
在安克雷奇以南苏厄德高速公路沿线的特纳根臂寻找白鲸。这些小白鲸长约 15 英尺，头部较钝。虽然白鲸在北太平洋其他地区的生存状况良好，但库克湾内的白鲸种群已濒临灭绝，仅有 300 头白鲸存活；而在 20 世纪 70 年代，库克湾内的白鲸数量是现在的四倍。
Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay-both accessible by boat tour from Sewardare popular places to spot killer whales and humpbacks, along with sea otters, seals, sea lions, and colonies of puffins. The spring migration of gray whales is a big Resurrection Bay attraction in April each year. There’s also a fair chance of seeing humpback and killer whales on the Kachemak Bay wildlife boat trips that depart from Homer.
基奈峡湾国家公园（Kenai Fjords National Park）和复活湾（Resurrection Bay）都可以从苏厄德乘船游览，是观赏虎鲸、座头鲸、海獭、海豹、海狮和海雀群的热门地点。每年四月，灰鲸的春季迁徙是复活湾的一大亮点。在从荷马出发的卡切马克湾野生动物游船上，也有相当的机会看到座头鲸和虎鲸。
For more information on whales in Alaska, visit the National Marine Fisheries Service’s website (www.fakr.noaa.gov/protectedresources).
有关阿拉斯加鲸鱼的更多信息，请访问国家海洋渔业服务网站 ( www.fakr.noaa.gov/protectedresources)。

Nearly 500 species of birds have been seen within Alaska, from tiny rufous hummingbirds to the nation’s emblem, the bald eagle. Because of Alaska’s proximity to Siberia, many unusual species are sometimes seen, making the Aleutians and Bering Sea of great interest to serious birders.
阿拉斯加境内有近 500 种鸟类，小到红褐色蜂鸟，大到阿拉斯加的国徽--秃鹰。由于阿拉斯加毗邻西伯利亚，有时会看到许多不寻常的物种，这使得阿留申群岛和白令海成为严肃的鸟类爱好者非常感兴趣的地方。
The Alaska Department of Fish and Game produces a helpful Wings Over Alaska (www.birding.alaska.gov) checklist of birds. Also check out Alaska eBird (www.ebird.org/ak) for unusual sightings and rare bird alerts.
阿拉斯加渔猎部制作了一份有用的《阿拉斯加之翼》（ www.birding.alaska.gov）鸟类清单。此外，您还可以查看阿拉斯加 eBird ( www.ebird.org/ak) 以了解不寻常的景象和珍稀鸟类警报。

As many eagles are found in Alaska as in the rest of the United States combined. Bald eagles are common sights along the coasts, but with their unmistakable white heads, seven-foot wingspans, and dive-bombing, salmon-snatching performances, the thrill of watching them is not quickly lost.
阿拉斯加的老鹰数量相当于美国其他地区老鹰数量的总和。白头鹰是沿岸的常见景象，但它们的白头、七英尺长的翼展、俯冲轰炸和捕捉鲑鱼的表演让人难以忘怀。
Golden eagles, found throughout the interior, come without the distinctive “baldness” but are no less magnificent for their size. Plentiful around Denali National Park, golden eagles perched on the tundra, standing more than three feet tall, have been mistaken for everything from grizzly cubs to adolescent hikers.
金雕在整个内陆地区都有分布，它们没有独特的 "秃头"，但体型却毫不逊色。德纳利国家公园周围有很多金雕，它们栖息在苔原上，身高超过三英尺，曾被误认为灰熊幼崽或青少年徒步旅行者。

The world’s largest waterfowl, these swans boast wingspans as wide as eagles (seven feet) and can weigh up to 40 pounds. They’re pure white and so have figured prominently over the centuries in legends, drama, music, and metaphor. They fly as fast as 60 miles per hour and as high as 10,000 feet on their migrations from Alaska to the Pacific Northwest for the winter
天鹅是世界上最大的水禽，翼展与老鹰一样宽（7 英尺），体重可达 40 磅。它们是纯白色的，因此几个世纪以来在传说、戏剧、音乐和比喻中都占有重要地位。它们从阿拉斯加迁徙到西北太平洋地区过冬时，飞行速度可达每小时 60 英里，高度可达 10,000 英尺
(though a group of 500 overwinter in Alaska). They live to be 30 years old and have a hornlike call, which accounts for their common name.
(不过有 500 只在阿拉斯加越冬）。它们能活到 30 岁，叫声像号角，这也是它们俗名的由来。

The willow ptarmigan is the state bird, and one of the most popular targets of small-game hunters. Ptarmigan - willow, rock, and white-tailed-are similar to pheasant, quail, and partridge in the Lower 48. They reproduce in large quantities, molt from winter white to summer brown, and have a poor sense of self-preservation.
柳叶雉是州鸟，也是小型猎物猎人最喜爱的目标之一。柳叶鸻、岩鸻和白尾鸻与下 48 州的野鸡、鹌鹑和鹧鸪相似。它们大量繁殖，从冬季的白色蜕皮为夏季的棕色，自我保护意识很差。

The mosquito - contrary to popular belief-is not Alaska’s state bird. But skeeters are nearly as much a symbol of the Great North as glaciers, totem poles, and the aurora borealis. Mosquito eggs hatch in water, so the boggy, muskegy, marshy forests and tundra, plus all the ponds, lakes, creeks, sloughs, and braided rivers of Alaska, provide the ideal habitat for these bothersome creatures. Alaska hosts around three dozen varieties of mosquitoes.
与人们的想象相反，蚊子并不是阿拉斯加的州鸟。但蚊子几乎和冰川、图腾柱、北极光一样，都是大北方的象征。蚊子的卵在水中孵化，因此阿拉斯加的沼泽、麝香、沼泽森林和苔原，再加上所有的池塘、湖泊、小溪、沼泽地和辫状河流，为这些讨厌的生物提供了理想的栖息地。阿拉斯加大约有三十多种蚊子。
Mosquitoes hibernate in the winter and emerge starting in March-April. Peak season is late June-early July. The males don’t alight or bite, but they do buzz around people’s eyes, noses, and ears, which can be as annoying, if not more so, than the bites. The males live 6-8 weeks, feeding on plant juices; their sole purpose in life is to fertilize the eggs the females produce. They also feed birds and larger insects.
蚊子在冬季冬眠，3 月至 4 月间开始出现。6 月底至 7 月初是高峰期。雄蚊不叮咬人，但它们会在人的眼睛、鼻子和耳朵周围嗡嗡叫，这可能和叮咬人一样令人讨厌，甚至更令人讨厌。雄虫的寿命为 6-8 周，以植物汁液为食；它们生活的唯一目的就是让雌虫产下的卵受精。它们也以鸟类和较大的昆虫为食。
The females live long lives producing batches of eggs, up to 500 at a time. To nourish the eggs, they feed on the blood of mammals, using a piercing and sucking mouth tube. The tube also injects an anticoagulant, which causes the itch and swelling from a bite. No Alaskan mosquitoes carry the diseases that tropical mosquitoes are known to, such as malaria, yellow fever, encephalitis, and elephantiasis.
雌鸟寿命很长，可成批产卵，一次最多可产 500 枚卵。为了给卵提供营养，它们用穿刺口管吸食哺乳动物的血液。口管还会注入一种抗凝血剂，导致叮咬后发痒和肿胀。阿拉斯加的蚊子不会像热带蚊子那样携带疟疾、黄热病、脑炎和象皮病等疾病。
Mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk. Windy conditions and low temperatures depress mosquito feeding and breeding. Mosquitoes are attracted to dark colors, carbon dioxide, warmth, and moisture. Mosquito repellent containing DEET (diethyl-meta-toluamide) is the most effective. A head net helps keep mosquitoes and other buggy critters away from your face and is a wise investment for anyone heading into remote parts of interior Alaska. If you wear light-colored heavy clothing (the stinger can pierce light materials), camp in high and dry places that are apt to be breezy, and rub repellent on all exposed skin, you should be able to weather mosquito season without too much difficulty.
蚊子在黎明和黄昏时最为活跃。大风天气和低温会抑制蚊子的觅食和繁殖。蚊子会被深色、二氧化碳、温暖和潮湿的环境所吸引。含有 DEET（二乙基间甲苯胺）的驱蚊剂最有效。头顶蚊帐有助于防止蚊子和其他小虫子从您脸上爬过，对任何前往阿拉斯加内陆偏远地区的人来说都是一项明智的投资。如果您穿浅色厚重的衣服（毒刺可以刺穿轻质材料），在高处和干燥且有微风的地方露营，并在所有裸露的皮肤上涂抹驱蚊剂，您应该能够顺利度过蚊虫季节。

Get someone going on fishing in Alaska and you won’t be able to shut him or her up or get a word in edgewise for the whole afternoon, guaranteed. The fisheries program in Alaska is extensive because commercial, sport, and recreational fishing are important to almost every state resident. Commercial fishing is Alaska’s second-largest industry, and Alaska accounts for
在阿拉斯加钓鱼的人，保证整个下午都无法让他或她闭嘴或插上一句话。阿拉斯加的渔业项目非常广泛，因为商业、运动和休闲渔业对几乎每个州居民都很重要。商业捕鱼是阿拉斯加的第二大产业，阿拉斯加占全州总产量的
more than half of the nation’s total seafood production. Sportfishing has always been popular and is now playing a more important role in Alaska’s economy as tourism increases.
阿拉斯加的海产品产量占全国总产量的一半以上。体育垂钓一直很受欢迎，随着旅游业的发展，体育垂钓在阿拉斯加的经济中扮演着更加重要的角色。

Five kinds of salmon-king, red, pink, silver, and chum-all return to the same bend in the same little creek where they hatched to spawn and die, ending one of the most remarkable life cycles and feats of migration and single-minded endurance of any living creature. You’ll be steeped in salmon lore if only by osmosis by the end of your trip, and you’ll get more than your fill of this most delicious and pretty fish.
王鲑、红鲑、粉红鲑、银鲑和大马哈鱼五种鲑鱼都会回到它们孵化的那条小溪的同一个弯道上产卵和死去，结束所有生物中最非凡的生命周期、迁徙壮举和一心一意的耐力。行程结束时，您将通过潜移默化的方式了解鲑鱼的传说，并将品尝到这种最美味、最漂亮的鱼类。
The kings (also known as chinooks) are the world’s largest salmon, and the world’s largest kings spawn in Alaskan waters. The average size for a king is $40-50$$40-50$40-5040-50 pounds. The world sportfish record is 97 pounds, and a few 100-pounders have been caught in commercial nets. Kings generally spend 5-6 years in saltwater before returning to freshwater to spawn: The more years spent in the ocean, the larger the fish. They run mostly mid-May-mid-July.
帝王鱼（也称奇努克鱼）是世界上最大的鲑鱼，世界上最大的帝王鱼产卵于阿拉斯加水域。帝王鲑的平均大小为 $40-50$$40-50$40-5040-50 磅。世界运动鱼类记录为 97 磅，商业渔网也曾捕获过几条 100 磅的大鲑鱼。帝王鱼一般在海水中生活 5-6 年，然后返回淡水产卵：在海洋中生活的年数越长，鱼的体型就越大。它们主要在五月中旬至七月中旬产卵。
Reds (sockeye) are the best-tasting salmon and the mainstay of the commercial fishing industry. They average 6-10 pounds and run in June-July.
红鲑鱼（红鲑鱼）是味道最好的鲑鱼，也是商业捕鱼业的支柱。它们平均重 6-10 磅，产于六月至七月。
Pinks (humpback) are the most plentiful, with massive runs of more than 150 million fish late June-early September. They’re smallish, 3-4 pounds, with soft flesh and a mild taste; they’re mostly canned (or caught by tourists).
粉鱼（驼背鱼）数量最多，6 月底至 9 月初会大量出现，数量超过 1.5 亿条。它们体型较小，重 3-4 磅，肉质柔软，味道清淡；它们大多被制成罐头（或由游客捕获）。
Silvers (coho) seem to be the most legendary of the salmon for their speed, agility, and sixth sense. Their spawning growth rate is no less than fantastic, more than doubling their weight in the last 90 days of their lives. Silvers grow 7-10 pounds and run late, from late July all the way to November.
鲑鱼中最富传奇色彩的似乎是银鲑，因为它们速度快、行动敏捷、第六感强。它们的产卵生长速度也是惊人的，在生命的最后 90 天里，体重会增加一倍以上。银鲑的体重为 7-10 磅，产卵期较晚，从七月下旬一直到十一月。
Chums (dog) are the least valued of the five Pacific salmon, even though they average 10-20 pounds, are extremely feisty, and are the most far-ranging, running way above the Arctic Circle. They’re known as dog salmon because they’ve traditionally sustained working huskies, though chums remain popular with a hard-core group of sport anglers, who consider them terribly underrated. Surprisingly, they make some of the finest smoked fish.
大马哈鱼（狗鲑鱼）是五种太平洋鲑鱼中最不被重视的一种，尽管它们平均重达 10-20 磅，非常好斗，而且活动范围最广，一直在北极圈以上活动。它们之所以被称为狗鲑鱼，是因为传统上它们一直供养着工作的哈士奇犬，不过大马哈鱼仍然受到一批铁杆体育垂钓者的青睐，他们认为大马哈鱼被严重低估了。令人惊讶的是，它们还能制成一些最美味的熏鱼。

Halibut are Alaska’s favorite monster fish and can grow so huge and strong that many anglers have an unsurpassed religious experience while catching one. “Chicken halibut” are the common 25-40 pounders, but 100- and 200-pounders are frequent sights in some ports; even 300-pounders are occasionally reeled in. The state-record halibut was a 464-pounder, more than 8 feet long, caught near Dutch Harbor in 1996. Even though halibut are huge and require 80pound test line with 20 -ounce lead sinkers, they’re not the fiercest fighting fish, and just about anyone can catch one on a good day’s charter from Homer, Seward, or Whittier. It has a very white flesh with a fine texture-many Alaskans regard it as the most flavorful (and least fishytasting) fish.
大比目鱼是阿拉斯加最受欢迎的怪鱼，可以长得非常巨大和强壮，许多垂钓者在钓到大比目鱼时都会有一种无与伦比的虔诚体验。"鸡大比目鱼 "是常见的 25-40 磅重的大比目鱼，但在一些港口，100 和 200 磅重的大比目鱼也经常出现，甚至偶尔会有 300 磅重的大比目鱼上钩。该州的大比目鱼记录是 1996 年在荷兰港附近捕获的一条 464 磅的大比目鱼，超过 8 英尺长。尽管大比目鱼体型巨大，需要使用 80 磅的测试线和 20 盎司的铅沉子，但它们并不是最凶猛的鱼类，只要从荷马、苏厄德或惠提尔出发，包船一天，几乎任何人都能钓到一条。它的肉很白，质地细腻--许多阿拉斯加人认为它是最美味（也最没有腥味）的鱼。

The fattiest fish in northern waters is the Pacific Coast eulachon, also known as hooligan, smelt, and candlefish (legend claims that the dried fish are so fatty they can be wicked and lit like candles). These silver and white fish are roughly as long and slender as pencils, and they run in monumental numbers for three weeks in early summer from Northern California to the Pribilofs. The mouth of the Portage River (just south of Girdwood) is a popular spot for dipnetting hooligan.
北部水域最肥美的鱼是太平洋沿岸的乌鳢，又名氓鱼、胡瓜鱼和蜡烛鱼（传说这种鱼干非常肥美，可以像蜡烛一样点燃）。这些银白色的鱼大约像铅笔一样细长，初夏时节，它们会从北加州到普里比罗夫群岛奔腾三周，数量巨大。波特吉河（Portage River）的河口（就在吉德伍德以南）是用浸网捕鱼的热门地点。

The Athabascan people of Canada have a legend that tells how, in the misty past, one of their ancestors helped a giant in Siberia slay a rival. The defeated giant fell into the sea, forming a bridge to North America. The forefathers of the Athabascans then crossed this bridge, bringing the caribou with them. Eventually the giant’s body decomposed, but parts of his skeleton were left sticking above the ocean to form the Aleutian Islands.
加拿大的阿萨巴斯卡人有这样一个传说：在虚无缥缈的过去，他们的一位祖先帮助西伯利亚的一位巨人杀死了一个对手。被打败的巨人掉进了大海，形成了一座通往北美的桥梁。阿萨巴斯卡人的祖先带着驯鹿跨过了这座桥。巨人的尸体最终腐烂，但他的部分骨架留在了海面上，形成了阿留申群岛。
In scientific terms, what probably happened was that low ocean levels-up to 450 feet below those at present-offered the nomadic peoples of northeastern Asia a 50-mile-long, 600-milewide land “bridge” over the Bering Sea. There is considerable controversy over exactly when humans crossed this isthmus, but it was certainly used at least 12,000 years ago, and perhaps considerably earlier.
从科学的角度来看，当时的情况可能是，低海平面--比现在低 450 英尺--为亚洲东北部的游牧民族在白令海上提供了一座长 50 英里、宽 600 英里的陆地 "桥梁"。关于人类究竟是何时跨过这条地峡的，还存在相当大的争议，但可以肯定的是，至少在 1.2 万年前，或许更早之前，人类就已经使用过这条地峡了。
One of the earliest records of humans in the Americas is a caribou bone with a serrated edge found at Old Crow in the northern Yukon. Almost certainly used as a tool, the bone has been placed at 27,000 years old by carbon dating. The interior lowlands of Alaska and the Yukon Valley, which were never glaciated, provided an ice-free migration route. As the climate warmed and the great ice sheets receded toward the Rocky Mountains and the Canadian Shield, a corridor opened down the middle of the Great Plains, allowing movement farther south. (Recent scientific evidence suggests that ancient peoples also sailed or paddled along the coast from Asia to North America.)
美洲人类最早的记录之一是在育空地区北部的老克罗发现的一块边缘有锯齿的驯鹿骨。根据碳测年法，这块骨头的历史可追溯到 2.7 万年前，几乎可以肯定曾被用作工具。阿拉斯加内陆低地和育空山谷从未出现过冰川，为人们提供了一条无冰迁徙路线。随着气候变暖，大冰原向落基山脉和加拿大地盾退去，大平原中部出现了一条走廊，使人们可以向南迁徙。(最近的科学证据表明，古代人也曾从亚洲沿海岸线航行或划船到北美）。

The Athabascans and other Paleo-Indians were the first people to cross the Bering land bridge. Their language is spoken today from interior Alaska to the American Southwest (by the Navajo and Apache peoples). Way back when (anywhere from 12,000 to 40,000 years ago), these people of the interior followed the mastodon, mammoth, and caribou herds that supplied them with most of their necessities. Agriculture was unknown to them, but they did fashion basic implements from the raw copper found in the region. Eventually, certain groups found their way to the coast.
阿萨巴斯卡人和其他古印第安人是最早跨越白令陆桥的民族。今天，从阿拉斯加内陆到美国西南部（纳瓦霍人和阿帕奇人）都使用他们的语言。遥想当年（1.2 万年到 4 万年前），这些内陆人追随着乳齿象、猛犸象和驯鹿群，这些动物为他们提供了大部分必需品。他们不懂农业，但会用当地的铜原料制作基本的器具。最后，某些族群来到了海岸。

Marine mammals and fish provided the Eskimo-related Aleuts with food, clothing, and household materials. The Aleut were famous for their tightly woven baskets. Before the 1740s arrival of the Russians, 25,000 Aleuts inhabited almost all of the Aleutian Islands, but by 1800
海洋哺乳动物和鱼类为与爱斯基摩人有关的阿留申人提供了食物、衣服和家用材料。阿留申人以编织精美的篮子而闻名。在 17 世纪 40 年代俄罗斯人到来之前，阿留申人居住在阿留申群岛的几乎所有地方，人数为 25,000 人。
only about 2,000 survived. The ruthless Russian fur traders murdered and kidnapped the men, enslaved or abandoned the women, and passed on their genes and diseases so successfully that today only 1,000 full-blooded Aleuts remain. The rest intermarried with the Russians, and scattered groups of their descendants are now found in the eastern Aleutians and the Pribilofs to the north.
只有大约 2000 人幸存下来。冷酷无情的俄罗斯毛皮商杀害和绑架了这些男人，奴役或遗弃了这些女人，并成功地将他们的基因和疾病遗传给了后人，以至于今天只剩下 1000 名血统纯正的阿留申人。其余的阿留申人与俄罗斯人通婚，他们的后裔散居在阿留申群岛东部和北部的普里比洛夫群岛。

In the early 1700 s, long before the New World colonists began manifesting their destiny by pushing the American frontier west to the Pacific coast, Russian promyshlenniki (explorers and traders) were already busy pushing their own frontier east to the Pacific. After these land conquerors had delineated Russia’s inhospitable northeastern edges, they were followed by indomitable sea explorers who cast off from the coasts in search of answers to questions that had intrigued Europeans since Marco Polo’s Travels - mainly, whether or not Asia was joined with America, the mysterious land to the east that was vaguely outlined on then-contemporary maps.
17 世纪初，早在新大陆殖民者开始向西将美洲边疆推向太平洋沿岸以彰显自己的命运之前，俄罗斯探险家和商人（promyshlenniki）已经忙着向东将自己的边疆推向太平洋。在这些陆地征服者划定了俄罗斯荒凉的东北边缘之后，不屈不挠的海上探险家们紧随其后，从海岸出发，寻找自《马可-波罗游记》以来一直令欧洲人好奇的问题的答案--主要是亚洲是否与美洲相连，即在当时的地图上模糊勾勒出的东方神秘大陆。
Danish-born Vitus Bering, a sailor in the Russian navy for nearly 20 years, set out in 1725 for the Kamchatka Peninsula, Siberia, on orders from Peter the Great. It took him and his crew three years, dragging rigging, cable, and anchors 2,000 miles over trackless wilderness and suffering innumerable deprivations, to reach the coast, where their real journey into the uncharted waters of the North Pacific would begin. Bering built his first boat, Gabriel, and sailed past St. Lawrence Island (south of present-day Nome) and the Diomedes, but fog prevented him from glimpsing North America. He returned and wintered in Kamchatka, sailed again in the spring, and charted most of the Kamchatka coast, but foul weather and a shortage of provisions again precluded exploring farther east.
出生于丹麦的维图斯-白令曾在俄罗斯海军服役近 20 年，1725 年奉彼得大帝之命出发前往西伯利亚的堪察加半岛。他和他的船员花了三年时间，拖着索具、缆绳和船锚，在茫茫荒原上航行了 2000 英里，经历了无数的磨难，才到达海岸，开始了他们真正的北太平洋未知水域之旅。白令建造了他的第一艘船 "加布里埃尔 "号，驶过圣劳伦斯岛（今诺姆以南）和狄奥墨得斯号，但大雾使他无法瞥见北美。他返回堪察加半岛并在那里过冬，春天再次出海，绘制了堪察加半岛大部分海岸的海图，但恶劣的天气和补给短缺再次阻碍了他向东更远的探索。
Over the next 10 years, Bering shuttled between Moscow and his beloved coast, submitting patiently to royal politics and ridicule from the leading scientists and cartographers while planning and outfitting (though not commanding) a series of expeditions that charted the rest of the Siberian coast and Japan.
在接下来的 10 年里，白令穿梭于莫斯科和他心爱的海岸之间，耐心地顺从皇室政治和来自顶尖科学家和制图师的嘲笑，同时规划和装备（尽管不是指挥）一系列探险队，绘制西伯利亚海岸和日本其他地区的地图。
Finally, in 1741, at the age of 60, Bering undertook his remarkable voyage to America. Commanding the St. Peter, he sailed southeast from Kamchatka, came up south of the Aleutians, passed Kodiak, and sighted Mount St. Elias on the mainland. By that time Bering, along with 31 members of his crew, was in the final throes of terminal scurvy. He died in December 1741 and was buried on what is now Bering Island, the westernmost of the Aleutians. Meanwhile, his lieutenant, Alexis Chirikov, commanding the St. Paul, had reached all the way to the site of Sitka. After much hardship, survivors from both ships made it back to Siberia-with a load of sea otter pelts. This bounty from the New World prompted a rush of Russian hunters and traders to Alaska.
最后，1741 年，60 岁的白令开始了他非凡的美洲之旅。他指挥 "圣彼得 "号从堪察加半岛向东南航行，来到阿留申群岛南部，经过科迪亚克，看到了大陆上的圣伊莱亚斯山。当时，白令和他的 31 名船员都已是坏血病晚期。他于 1741 年 12 月去世，被葬在阿留申群岛最西端的白令岛上。与此同时，他的副官亚历克西斯-奇里科夫（Alexis Chirikov）指挥着圣保罗号（St. Paul），一路抵达了锡特卡（Sitka）的所在地。历经千辛万苦，两艘船上的幸存者带着满载的海獭皮返回了西伯利亚。这笔来自新大陆的赏金促使大批俄罗斯猎人和商人涌向阿拉斯加。

1: food cache near Talkeetna 2: historic Chapel of Saint Nicholas in Kenai 3: Kilcher Homestead near Homer
1: 塔尔基特纳附近的食物储藏处 2: 基奈历史悠久的圣尼古拉斯教堂 3: 霍默附近的基尔彻家园

Reports of Russian advances alarmed the Spanish, who considered the entire west coast of North America theirs. Juan Pérez and Bruno de Heceta were ordered north from Mexico in
关于俄国人前进的报道让西班牙人感到震惊，他们认为整个北美西海岸都是他们的。胡安-佩雷斯（Juan Pérez）和布鲁诺-德-赫克塔（Bruno de Heceta）奉命从墨西哥北上。

1774 and 1775. Spanish explorer Juan Francisco Quadra sailed as far north as Sitka in 1775 and 1779, but in the end, Spain failed to back up its claim with any permanent settlement north of San Francisco. It was Englishmen James Cook (in 1776-1780) and George Vancouver (in 17911792) who first carefully explored and charted this northern coast. In 1778, Cook landed on Vancouver Island, then sailed north all the way to what is now called Cook Inlet in Southcentral Alaska, in search of the Northwest Passage from the Atlantic. He continued to the Aleutians and entered the Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean. A decade and a half later, Vancouver, aboard his ship HMS Discovery, charted the coast from California to southeast Alaska and claimed the region for Britain. His was the first extensive exploration of Puget Sound and circumnavigation of Vancouver Island; his maps and charts of this confounding coast were so accurate that they were used for another 100 years.
1774 年和 1775 年。西班牙探险家胡安-弗朗西斯科-夸德拉（Juan Francisco Quadra）于 1775 年和 1779 年向北航行至锡特卡，但最终西班牙未能在旧金山以北建立任何永久定居点来支持其主张。英国人詹姆斯-库克（James Cook，1776-1780 年）和乔治-温哥华（George Vancouver，1791-1792 年）首先对北部海岸进行了仔细勘探并绘制了海图。1778 年，库克在温哥华岛登陆，然后一路向北航行到现在阿拉斯加中南部的库克湾，寻找从大西洋出发的西北航道。他继续航行到阿留申群岛，进入白令海和北冰洋。十五年后，温哥华乘坐他的 "发现 "号，绘制了从加利福尼亚到阿拉斯加东南部的海岸线图，并将该地区划归英国所有。他第一次对普吉特海湾进行了广泛的探索，并对温哥华岛进行了环绕航行；他绘制的这一令人困惑的海岸地图和海图非常精确，以至于又被使用了 100 年。

The excesses of the promyshlenniki, who had massacred and enslaved the Aleut, prompted the czar in 1789 to create the Russian-American Company, headed by Grigori Shelikhov, a fur trader and merchant who in 1784 had established the first permanent settlement in Alaska at Three Saints Bay on Kodiak Island. Alexander Baranov, a salesman in Siberia, was the first director of the company; he moved the settlement to present-day Kodiak town, and for the next 20 years Baranov was the law. One of the most powerful men in Alaskan history, he enslaved the remaining Aleuts, warred with the Panhandle Indians, initiated trade with the British, Spanish, and Americans, and sent his trading vessels as far away as Hawaii, Japan, and Mexico. Exhausting the resources of Kodiak and its neighborhood, he moved the company to Sitka, where, according to Merle Colby in his classic 1939 Works Progress Administration (WPA) Guide to Alaska:
Promyshlenniki 屠杀和奴役阿留申人的暴行促使沙皇于 1789 年成立了俄美公司，该公司由毛皮贸易商兼商人格里戈里-谢利霍夫（Grigori Shelikhov）领导，他于 1784 年在科迪亚克岛的三圣湾建立了阿拉斯加的第一个永久定居点。亚历山大-巴拉诺夫（Alexander Baranov）是西伯利亚的一名推销员，他是公司的第一任董事；他将定居点搬到了今天的科迪亚克镇，在此后的 20 年里，巴拉诺夫一直是公司的法律顾问。作为阿拉斯加历史上最有权势的人之一，他奴役了剩余的阿留申人，与潘汉德印第安人开战，与英国人、西班牙人和美国人开展贸易，并将他的商船派往夏威夷、日本和墨西哥等地。在耗尽了科迪亚克及其附近地区的资源后，他将公司搬到了锡特卡，根据梅尔-科尔比（Merle Colby）在其 1939 年的经典著作《阿拉斯加工程进度管理局（WPA）指南》中的描述，锡特卡是阿拉斯加最重要的港口之一：
from his wooden “castle” on the hill surmounting the harbor he made Sitka the most brilliant capital in the new world. Yankee sailors, thrashing around the Horn, beating their way up the California coast, anchored at last in Sitka harbor and found the city an American Paris, its streets crowded with adventurers from half the world away, its nights gay with balls illuminated by brilliant uniforms and the evening dresses of Russian ladies.
在海港山丘上的木制 "城堡 "里，他使锡特卡成为新世界最辉煌的首都。美国水手绕过合恩号，沿着加利福尼亚海岸一路驶来，最后在锡特卡港停泊，发现这座城市就像美国的巴黎，街道上挤满了来自半个地球以外的冒险家，夜晚的舞会在华丽制服和俄罗斯女士晚礼服的照耀下显得格外热闹。
Except for the Tlingit people, who fought bitterly against Russian imperialism, Baranov’s rule, extending from Bristol Bay in western Alaska to Fort Ross, California, was complete. His one last dream, of returning to Russia, was never fulfilled: On the voyage back to his homeland, Baranov died at the age of 72 .
除了与俄罗斯帝国主义进行激烈斗争的特林吉特人之外，巴拉诺夫的统治从阿拉斯加西部的布里斯托尔湾一直延伸到加利福尼亚的罗斯堡，他的统治已经完成。他的最后一个梦想--返回俄罗斯--从未实现：在返回祖国的途中，巴拉诺夫去世，享年 72 岁。

In 1824 and 1825, Russia signed agreements with the United States and Britain, fixing the southern limit of Russian America at 54 degrees 40 minutes north latitude, near present-day Ketchikan. But the vast territory south of this line was left up for grabs. The American claim to the Oregon Territory around the Columbia River was based on its discovery by Robert Gray in
1824 年和 1825 年，俄罗斯与美国和英国签署了协议，将俄罗斯美洲的南部界限确定在北纬 54 度 40 分，即今天的凯奇坎附近。但这条线以南的大片领土却悬而未决。美国对哥伦比亚河周围的俄勒冈领土的主权要求是基于罗伯特-格雷（Robert Gray）在哥伦比亚河的发现。

1792, and on the first overland exploration by Lewis and Clark. Britain based its claim to the region on its effective occupation of the land by the Northwest Company, which in 1821 merged with the Hudson’s Bay Company. As American settlers began to inhabit the area, feelings ran high—President Polk was elected in 1846 on the slogan “Fifty-four Forty or Fight,” referring to the proposed northern boundary between American and British territory in the Pacific Northwest. War between Britain and the United States was averted when both agreed to draw the boundary line to the Pacific along the 49th parallel, which remains to this day the Canada-U.S. border. Vancouver Island went to Britain, and the new Canadian nation purchased all the territorial holdings of the Hudson’s Bay Company (Rupert’s Land) in 1870. In 1871, British Columbia joined the Canadian Confederation on a promise from the leaders of the infant country of a railroad to extend there from the east.
1792 年，刘易斯和克拉克进行了首次陆上探险。1821 年，西北公司与哈德逊湾公司合并。随着美国定居者开始居住在这一地区，人们的情绪高涨，波尔克总统于1846年当选，他提出的口号是 "要么五四四，要么战斗"，指的就是美国和英国在太平洋西北部领土之间的拟议北部边界。英美两国同意沿北纬49度线划定太平洋边界线，这条边界线至今仍是加拿大和美国的边界，从而避免了英美之间的战争。温哥华岛归属英国，新加拿大于 1870 年购买了哈德逊湾公司的所有领地（鲁珀特地）。1871 年，不列颠哥伦比亚省加入了加拿大联邦，因为这个新生国家的领导人承诺将修建一条从东部延伸到那里的铁路。

The year 1863 was a difficult one for the Russian America Company. Back in the motherland, Russia’s feudal society was breaking down, threatening the aristocracy’s privileged status. In Alaska, competition from English and American whalers and traders was intensifying. Food was scarce, and supply ships from California were unreliable and infrequent. The worst, perhaps, was the dwindled numbers of fur seals and sea otters, hunted nearly to extinction over the past century. In addition, bad relations with Britain in the aftermath of the Crimean War (1853-1856) prompted Czar Alexander I to fear losing his far-flung Alaskan possessions to the British by force. Finally, the czar did not renew the company’s charter, and the Russian America Company officially closed up shop.
1863 年对于俄美公司来说是艰难的一年。在祖国，俄罗斯的封建社会正在瓦解，贵族的特权地位受到威胁。在阿拉斯加，来自英国和美国捕鲸船和商人的竞争愈演愈烈。食物匮乏，来自加利福尼亚的补给船不可靠且不频繁。最糟糕的可能是海狗和海獭数量的减少，在过去的一个世纪里，它们几乎被猎杀殆尽。此外，克里米亚战争（1853-1856 年）后与英国的恶劣关系也促使沙皇亚历山大一世担心他遥远的阿拉斯加属地会被英国人用武力夺走。最后，沙皇没有续签公司的特许状，俄罗斯美洲公司正式关闭。
Meanwhile, American technology was performing miracles. Western Union had laid two cables under the Atlantic Ocean from the United States to Europe, but neither had yet worked. So they figured, let’s go the other way around the world: They proposed laying a cable overland through British Columbia, along the Yukon River, across the Bering Strait into Siberia, then east and south into Europe. In 1865, the Western Union Telegraph Expedition to Alaska, led by William Dall, surveyed the interior of Alaska for the first time, revealing its vast land and resources. This stimulated considerable interest in frontier-minded Washington DC. In addition, Czar Alexander’s Alaska salesman, Baron Eduard de Stoeckl, was spending $200,000 of his own money to make a positive impression on influential politicians and journalists.
与此同时，美国的技术正在创造奇迹。西联公司在大西洋海底铺设了两条从美国到欧洲的电缆，但都没有成功。于是他们想，让我们反其道而行之，环游世界：他们提议从陆路铺设一条电缆，穿过不列颠哥伦比亚省，沿着育空河，穿过白令海峡进入西伯利亚，然后向东、向南进入欧洲。1865 年，由威廉-达尔率领的阿拉斯加西部联合电报探险队首次勘测了阿拉斯加内陆，揭示了其广袤的土地和资源。这激起了具有边疆意识的华盛顿特区的极大兴趣。此外，沙皇亚历山大的阿拉斯加推销员爱德华-德-斯托克尔男爵（Baron Eduard de Stoeckl）自费 20 万美元，在有影响力的政治家和记者中留下了积极的印象。
Secretary of State William H. Seward purchased Alaska on March 30, 1867, for the all-time bargain-basement price of $\mathrm{\$}7.2$$\mathrm{\$}7.2$$7.2\$ 7.2 million-two cents per acre. The American flag was hoisted over Sitka on October 18, 1867. According to Ernest Gruening, first U.S. senator from Alaska: A year later when the House of Representatives was called upon to pay the bill, skeptical congressmen scornfully labeled Alaska “Icebergia,” “Walrussia,” “Seward’s Icebox,” and “[President] Johnson’s Polar Bear Garden.” If American forces had not already raised the Stars and Stripes in Sitka, the House might have refused to pick up the tab.
1867 年 3 月 30 日，美国国务卿威廉-西华德以每英亩 2 美分的超低价格购买了阿拉斯加。1867 年 10 月 18 日，美国国旗在锡特卡上空升起。据美国阿拉斯加州首任参议员欧内斯特-格鲁宁（Ernest Gruening）称：一年后，当众议院被要求支付这笔账单时，持怀疑态度的国会议员轻蔑地给阿拉斯加贴上了 "冰山"、"鲸鱼"、"西华德的冰盒 "和 "约翰逊总统的北极熊花园 "的标签。如果美军没有在锡特卡升起星条旗，众议院可能会拒绝承担这笔费用。

Stoeckl, meanwhile, reimbursed himself the $200,000 he’d invested and sent the other $7 million home to Alexander. Subsequently, Alaska faded into official oblivion for the next 15 years-universally regarded as a frozen wasteland and a colossal waste of money.
与此同时，斯托克尔偿还了自己投资的 20 万美元，并将另外 700 万美元寄给了亚历山大。随后的 15 年里，阿拉斯加逐渐被官方遗忘--人们普遍认为这是一片冰天雪地的荒原，是对金钱的巨大浪费。

This act organized Alaska for the first time, providing a territorial governor and law enforcement (though not a local legislature or representation in Washington). President Chester Arthur appointed federal district court judges, U.S. attorneys, and marshals. From 1884 to 1900, only one U.S. judge, attorney, and marshal managed the whole territory, all residing in the capital, Sitka. The first three appointees to the court in Sitka were removed in disgrace amid charges of “incompetence, wickedness, unfairness, and drunkenness.” A succession of scandals dogged other federal appointees-and that was only in Sitka; the vast interior had no law at all until 1900, when Congress divided the territory into three legal districts, with courts at Sitka, Nome, and Eagle.
该法案首次将阿拉斯加组织起来，设立了领土总督和执法部门（但没有地方立法机构或在华盛顿的代表）。切斯特-阿瑟总统任命了联邦地区法院法官、美国检察官和司法执行官。从 1884 年到 1900 年，只有一名美国法官、律师和司法官管理整个领地，他们都居住在首府锡特卡。在 "无能、邪恶、不公和酗酒 "的指控下，最初任命的三位锡特卡法院法官黯然下台。接二连三的丑闻困扰着其他被任命的联邦官员--而这仅仅是在锡特卡；直到 1900 年，国会将这片领土划分为三个法定区域，分别在锡特卡、诺姆和伊格尔设立法院，广袤的内陆地区才有了法律。
William H. Dall wrote of Alaska at that time as a place where “no man could make a legal will, own a homestead or transfer it, or so much as cut wood for his fire without defying a Congressional prohibition; where polygamy and slavery and the lynching of witches prevailed, with no legal authority to stay or punish criminals.” Kipling’s line, “There’s never law of God or man runs north of 53,” also refers to the young territory of Alaska. In contrast, Colby in his WPA guide commented that the gold-rush stampeders, although technically without civil authority, created their own form of self-government. The miners organized “miners meetings” to enforce order, settle boundary disputes, and administer rough and ready justice. Too often this form of government failed to cope with [serious problems], yet the profound instinct of the American people for self-government and their tradition of democracy made local self-government effective until the creation of the Alaska Legislature in 1912.
威廉-H.达尔写道，在当时的阿拉斯加，"没有人可以立下合法的遗嘱，拥有或转让宅地，或者在不违反国会禁令的情况下砍柴生火；一夫多妻制、奴隶制和对女巫的私刑在这里盛行，没有任何法律权力可以阻止或惩罚罪犯"。吉卜林的诗句 "在 53 号公路以北，从来没有上帝或人类的法律 "也指的是阿拉斯加这块年轻的领土。相比之下，科尔比在他的 WPA 指南中评论说，淘金者虽然在技术上没有民事权力，但他们创造了自己的自治形式。矿工们组织了 "矿工会议 "来维持秩序、解决边界争端以及执行粗暴的司法。这种形式的政府往往无法应对[严重的问题]，但美国人民深厚的自治本能和民主传统使地方自治政府在 1912 年阿拉斯加立法机构成立之前一直有效。

Alaska’s gold rush changed everything. After the California stampede of 1849, the search moved north. In 1858 there was a rush up the Fraser River to the Cariboo gold fields. In 1872, gold was found in British Columbia’s Cassiar region. Strikes in Alaska and the Yukon followed one another in quick succession: at Juneau (1880), Fortymile (1886), Circle (1893), Dawson City (1896), Nome (1899), Fairbanks (1902), and Iditarod (1908).
阿拉斯加的淘金热改变了一切。1849 年加利福尼亚的淘金热之后，人们开始向北寻找。1858 年，人们沿着弗雷泽河涌向卡里布金矿。1872 年，不列颠哥伦比亚省的卡西亚尔地区发现了金矿。阿拉斯加和育空地区的罢工接踵而至：朱诺（1880 年）、四十英里（1886 年）、圆环（1893 年）、道森城（1896 年）、诺姆（1899 年）、费尔班克斯（1902 年）和伊迪塔罗德（1908 年）。
A mobile group of men and women followed these discoveries on riverboats, dogsleds, and foot, creating instant outposts of civilization near the gold strikes. Gold also caused the Canadian and U.S. governments to take a serious look at their northernmost possessions for the first time; the beginnings of Alaska’s administrative infrastructure date from those times. Still, in 1896, when Siwash George Carmack and his two Athabascan brothers-in-law discovered gold where Bonanza Creek flowed into the Klondike River in Yukon Territory, this vast northern wilderness could barely be called “settled.” Only a handful of tiny nonnative villages existed along the Yukon River from Ogilvie and Fortymile in western Yukon to Circle and Fort
一群流动的男男女女乘坐河船、狗拉雪橇或徒步跟随着这些发现，在金矿附近建立了即时的文明前哨。黄金也让加拿大和美国政府首次认真审视了他们最北部的属地；阿拉斯加行政基础设施的雏形就是在那个时代形成的。尽管如此，1896 年，当乔治-卡马克（Siwash George Carmack）和他的两个阿萨巴斯卡人妹夫在育空地区博南扎溪汇入克朗代克河的地方发现金矿时，这片广袤的北部荒原还称不上 "定居"。从育空西部的奥格尔维（Ogilvie）和四十迈尔（Fortymile）到圆环（Circle）和堡垒（Fort），育空河沿岸只有少数几个非原住民的小村庄。

Yukon in eastern Alaska, and a single unoccupied cabin sat on a beach at the mouth of the Skagway River at the terminus of the Inside Passage.
在阿拉斯加东部的育空地区，内河航道终点斯卡格韦河口的海滩上有一间无人居住的小屋。
But by the end of 1897 , perhaps 20,000 stampeders had skirted the lone cabin on their way to the headwaters of the Yukon and the sure fortunes in gold that awaited them on the Klondike. The two trails from Skagway over the coastal mountains and on to the interior rivers proved to be the most “civilized” and successful routes to Dawson. But the fortune-frenzied hordes proceeded north, uninformed, aiming at Dawson from every direction on the compass. They suffered every conceivable hardship and misery, from which death (often by suicide) was sometimes the only relief. And those who finally burst through the barrier and landed at the Klondike and Dawson were already two years too late to partake of the “ready” gold. But the north had been conquered by whites. And by the time the gold rush had spread to Nome, Fairbanks, Kantishna, Hatcher Pass, and Hope, Alaska could finally be called settled (if not civilized).
但到 1897 年底，大约有两万名拓荒者绕过了这间孤零零的小屋，前往育空地区的源头以及克朗代克河上等待他们的黄金宝藏。事实证明，从斯卡格威出发，翻越沿海山脉，进入内陆河流的两条小路是通往道森的最 "文明"、最成功的路线。但是，疯狂发财的大群人在一无所知的情况下，从罗盘上的各个方向向道森进发。他们遭受了一切可以想象的艰辛和苦难，死亡（往往是自杀）有时是唯一的解脱。而那些最终冲破重重障碍，在克朗代克和道森登陆的人，已经晚了两年才分到 "现成 "的金子。但北方已经被白人征服。当淘金热蔓延到诺姆、费尔班克斯、坎蒂什纳、哈彻山口和霍普时，阿拉斯加终于可以被称为定居之地（如果不是文明之地的话）。
The consequences of this Anglo invasion were devastating for the people who had lived in this harsh land for thousands of years. Epidemics of measles, influenza, and pneumonia swept through the Native Alaskan communities, particularly in 1900 and 1918, sometimes killing every person in a village. Rescuers found entire families who had frozen to death because they did not have enough strength to keep the fire going. The impact of these deaths, combined with the sudden arrival of whites who introduced alcohol, depleted game and other food sources, and then brought Christianity as a replacement for Indigenous beliefs, was profound. The consequences still ripple across Alaska, most notably in the form of rampant alcoholism, which is a factor in the shocking rates of Native Alaskan accidents and suicides.
盎格鲁人的入侵给在这片严酷的土地上生活了数千年的人们带来了毁灭性的后果。麻疹、流感和肺炎等流行病席卷了阿拉斯加土著社区，尤其是在 1900 年和 1918 年，有时一个村子里的所有人都会因此丧命。救援人员发现，一些家庭因为没有足够的力气生火而被冻死。这些死亡事件，再加上突然到来的白人，他们引入了酒精，耗尽了野味和其他食物来源，然后又带来了基督教，取代了土著人的信仰，这些都产生了深远的影响。其后果仍然波及整个阿拉斯加，最明显的是酗酒现象猖獗，这也是阿拉斯加原住民事故和自杀率令人震惊的一个因素。

In the first decade of the 20th century, the sprawling wilderness was starting to be tamed. The military set up shop at Valdez and Eagle to maintain law and order, telegraph cables were laid across the interior, the Northwest Passage had been found, railroads were begun at several locations, vast copper deposits were being mined, and thousands of independent pioneer types were surviving on their own wits and the country’s resources. Footpaths widened into wagon trails. Mail deliveries were regularized. Limited self-government was initiated: The capital moved to Juneau from Sitka in 1905; Alaska’s first congressional delegate arrived in Washington in 1906; and a territorial legislature convened in 1912. A year later, the first people stood atop the south peak of Mount McKinley (now Denali), and the surrounding area was set aside as a national park in 1917. At that time, Alaska’s white and Native Alaskan populations had reached equivalency, at around 35,000 each. Judge James Wickersham introduced the first statehood bill to the U.S. Congress in 1916, but Alaska drifted along in federal obscurity until the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor.
20 世纪头十年，这片广袤的荒原开始被驯服。军方在瓦尔迪兹和伊格尔设立据点以维持法律和秩序，电报电缆横跨内陆，西北航道被发现，多处开始修建铁路，大量铜矿被开采，数以千计的独立拓荒者依靠自己的智慧和国家的资源生存下来。人行道拓宽成了马车道。邮递开始正规化。有限自治开始启动：1905 年，首府从锡特卡迁至朱诺；1906 年，阿拉斯加的首位国会代表抵达华盛顿；1912 年，领土立法机构召开会议。一年后，第一批人站在了麦金利山（现在的德纳利山）南峰的山顶上，周边地区于 1917 年被辟为国家公园。当时，阿拉斯加的白人和阿拉斯加原住民人口已达到相当数量，分别约为 35,000 人。1916 年，詹姆斯-维克沙姆法官向美国国会提交了第一份建州议案，但阿拉斯加一直在联邦体制内默默无闻，直到日本轰炸珍珠港。

It has been said that war is good for one thing: the rapid expansion of communications and mobility technology. Alaska proves that rule. In the early 1940s, military bases were established at Anchorage, Whittier, Fairbanks, Nome, Sitka, Delta, Kodiak, Dutch Harbor, and the tip of the Aleutians, which brought an immediate influx of military and support personnel and services. In addition, in 1942 alone, thousands of miles of road were punched through the trackless wilderness, finally connecting Alaska to the rest of the continent: the 1,440-mile Alaska Highway from Dawson Creek, British Columbia, to Delta, Alaska; the 50 miles of the Klondike Highway from Whitehorse to Carcross; the 151-mile Haines Highway; and the 328-mile Glenn Highway from Tok to Anchorage, among others. At the war’s peak, 150,000 troops were stationed in the territory; all told, the U.S. government spent almost $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1 billion there during the war. After the war, as after the gold rush, Alaska’s population increased dramatically, with service members remaining or returning. The number of residents nearly doubled between 1940 and 1950.
有人说，战争只有利于一件事：通信和移动技术的快速发展。阿拉斯加证明了这一规律。20 世纪 40 年代初，在安克雷奇、惠提尔、费尔班克斯、诺姆、锡特卡、三角洲、科迪亚克、荷兰港和阿留申群岛顶端建立了军事基地，这立即带来了大量军事和支援人员及服务。此外，仅在 1942 年一年，就有数千英里的公路穿过茫茫荒原，最终将阿拉斯加与欧洲大陆的其他地区连接起来：从不列颠哥伦比亚省道森克里克到阿拉斯加三角洲的 1,440 英里阿拉斯加公路；从怀特霍斯到卡克罗斯的 50 英里克朗代克公路；151 英里海恩公路；以及从托克到安克雷奇的 328 英里格伦公路等。在战争高峰期，有 15 万军队驻扎在该地区；战争期间，美国政府在该地区总共花费了近 $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1 亿美元。战后，正如淘金热之后一样，阿拉斯加的人口急剧增加，军人留守或回国。从 1940 年到 1950 年，阿拉斯加的居民人数几乎翻了一番。

The 1950s brought a boom in construction, logging, fishing, and bureaucracy to Alaska. The decade also saw the discovery of a large oil reserve off the western Kenai Peninsula in the Cook Inlet. The population continued to grow, yet Alaskans still felt like residents of a second-class colony of the United States and repeatedly asked for statehood status through the decade.
20 世纪 50 年代，阿拉斯加的建筑业、伐木业、渔业和官僚机构蓬勃发展。在这十年间，库克湾基奈半岛西部附近还发现了大量石油储备。阿拉斯加人口持续增长，但阿拉斯加人仍然觉得自己是美国二等殖民地的居民，并在这十年间多次要求获得州地位。
Finally, on July 7, 1958, Congress voted to admit Alaska into the Union as the 49th state. On January 3, 1959, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed the official proclamation-43 years after Judge James Wickersham had first introduced the idea.
最后，1958 年 7 月 7 日，美国国会投票决定接纳阿拉斯加州为美国第 49 个州。1959 年 1 月 3 日，德怀特-D-艾森豪威尔总统签署了正式公告--这距离詹姆斯-维克沙姆法官首次提出这一想法已有 43 年之久。
In the 92 years between Alaska becoming a U.S. territory and becoming a state, much of the land was split up into Navy petroleum reserves, Bureau of Land Management parcels, national wildlife refuges, power projects, and the like, to be administered by separate federal agencies, including national park, forest, and military services. By the time Alaska gained statehood in 1959, only 0.003 percent of the land was privately owned - mostly homesteads and mining operations-and just 0.01 percent had been set aside for Native Alaskan reservations, administered by the Bureau of Indian Affairs. The Statehood Act allowed Alaska to choose 104 million acres, but the issue of Native Alaskan land ownership was not considered, and it would take oil discoveries in the late 1960s to force redress for that injustice.
在阿拉斯加成为美国领土到成为州的 92 年间，大部分土地被分割成海军石油储备、土地管理局地块、国家野生动物保护区、电力项目等，由不同的联邦机构管理，包括国家公园、森林和军事服务。到 1959 年阿拉斯加州建州时，只有 0.003% 的土地为私人所有--主要是宅基地和采矿作业，只有 0.01% 的土地被划为阿拉斯加原住民保留地，由印第安人事务局管理。建州法案》允许阿拉斯加选择 1.04 亿英亩的土地，但阿拉斯加原住民的土地所有权问题并未得到考虑，直到 20 世纪 60 年代末发现了石油，才迫使人们纠正了这一不公正现象。
A little over five years after statehood, the Good Friday earthquake struck Southcentral Alaska; at magnitude 9.2, it remains the largest earthquake ever recorded in North America. But Alaskans quickly recovered and rebuilt with the plucky determination and optimism that still characterize the young state.
建州五年多一点，阿拉斯加中南部就发生了耶稣受难日地震，震级达 9.2 级，至今仍是北美有记录以来最大的地震。但是，阿拉斯加人很快恢复并重建了家园，他们勇敢的决心和乐观的精神至今仍是这个年轻州的特征。

Alaska entered the big time, experiencing its most recent boom, in 1968 when Atlantic
1968 年，阿拉斯加进入了大发展时期，经历了最近的繁荣。
Richfield discovered a 10-billion-barrel oil reserve at Prudhoe Bay. The following year, Alaska auctioned off leases to almost 500,000 acres of oil-rich country on the North Slope. A
里奇菲尔德公司在普拉德霍湾发现了 100 亿桶石油储备。次年，阿拉斯加拍卖了北坡近 50 万英亩石油资源丰富地区的租约。A
consortium of oil company leaseholders immediately began planning the Trans-Alaska Pipeline to carry the crude from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. But conservationists, worried about its environmental impact, and Native Alaskan groups, concerned about land-use compensation, filed suit, delaying construction for four years.
由石油公司租赁者组成的财团立即开始规划跨阿拉斯加管道，将原油从普拉德霍湾输送到瓦尔迪兹。但是，担心其环境影响的自然保护主义者和担心土地使用补偿的阿拉斯加土著团体提起了诉讼，导致施工推迟了四年。
This impasse was resolved in 1971, when Congress passed the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), the most extensive compensation to any Indigenous people in the history of the United States. It gave Alaska’s aboriginal groups title to 44 million acres of traditional-use lands, plus $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1 billion to be divided among all American citizens with at least 25 percent Athabascan, Eskimo, or Aleut blood. The act also created a dozen regional Native Alaskan corporations, a “13th Corporation” for Native Alaskans in the Lower 48, plus more than 200 village and urban Native Alaskan corporations.
1971 年，美国国会通过了《阿拉斯加原住民土地权属解决法案》（ANCSA），解决了这一僵局。该法案赋予阿拉斯加原住民 4400 万英亩传统使用土地的所有权，另外还将在所有拥有至少 25% 阿萨巴斯卡人、爱斯基摩人或阿留申人血统的美国公民中分配 $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1 亿美元。该法案还成立了十几家地区性阿拉斯加土著公司，一家为下 48 州阿拉斯加土著人成立的 "第 13 公司"，以及 200 多家村庄和城市阿拉斯加土著公司。
The pipeline was built in 1974-1977. Again, after years of uncertainty, Alaska boomed, both in revenues and population. Since then, the state’s economic fortunes have risen and fallen with the volatile price of oil.
输油管道建于 1974-1977 年。在经历了多年的不确定性之后，阿拉斯加的经济再次蓬勃发展，无论是收入还是人口。此后，阿拉斯加州的经济命运随着石油价格的波动而起伏。

The Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA) of 1971 had designated 80 million acres to be withdrawn from the public domain and set aside as national parks, wildlife refuges, and other preserves by 1978. In the mid-late 1970s, in the wake of the completion of the pipeline, this was the raging land issue, generally divided between fiercely independent Alaskans who protested the further “locking up” of their lands by Washington bureaucrats, and conservationists who lobbied to preserve Alaska’s wildlife and wilderness. When Congress failed to act, President Jimmy Carter took a bold move that forever changed the way Alaskan lands are managed: He withdrew 114 million acres of Alaskan lands as national monuments on December 1, 1978. The withdrawal still rankles the state’s right-wing politicians, who regard it as a criminal act that should be prosecuted.
1971 年的《阿拉斯加原住民土地权属解决法案》（ANCSA）规定，到 1978 年，将有 8000 万英亩的土地从公共领域退出，划为国家公园、野生动物保护区和其他保护区。20 世纪 70 年代中后期，在输油管道完工后，这是一个汹涌澎湃的土地问题，通常由激烈独立的阿拉斯加人和自然保护主义者之间产生分歧，前者抗议华盛顿官僚进一步 "锁住 "他们的土地，后者则游说保护阿拉斯加的野生动物和荒野。当国会未能采取行动时，吉米-卡特总统采取了一个大胆的举措，永远地改变了阿拉斯加土地的管理方式：他于 1978 年 12 月 1 日将阿拉斯加 1.14 亿英亩的土地撤销为国家纪念碑。阿拉斯加州的右翼政客至今仍对撤出国家纪念地感到不安，他们认为这是一种犯罪行为，应该受到起诉。
Two years later, with Ronald Reagan waiting to take over the reins of power, Carter signed into law one of the most significant pieces of environmental legislation ever enacted: the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA). The act set aside 106 million acres of federal property as “public-interest lands,” to be managed by the National Park Service, the U.S. Forest Service, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and other agencies. These “d2 lands” (from section 17:d-2 of ANCSA) included the expansion of Mount McKinley National Park (renamed Denali); the expansion of Glacier Bay and Katmai National Monuments, which became national parks; and the creation of Gates of the Arctic, Kobuk Valley, Wrangell-St. Elias, Kenai Fjords, and Lake Clark National Parks, plus the designation of numerous national monuments and preserves, Wild and Scenic Rivers, and new wildlife refuges.
两年后，罗纳德-里根（Ronald Reagan）即将接掌政权，卡特签署了有史以来最重要的环境立法之一：《阿拉斯加国家利益土地保护法》（ANILCA）。该法案将 1.06 亿英亩的联邦财产划为 "公共利益土地"，由国家公园管理局、美国森林管理局、美国鱼类和野生动物管理局以及其他机构负责管理。这些 "d2 土地"（摘自《美国自然资源保护法》第 17:d-2 节）包括扩建麦金利山国家公园（更名为迪纳利）；扩建冰川湾和卡特迈国家纪念碑，使其成为国家公园；创建北极之门、科布克山谷、弗兰格尔-圣伊利亚斯、基奈峡湾和克拉克湖国家公园，以及指定许多国家纪念碑和保护区、野生和风景河流以及新的野生动物保护区。

The late 1990s were hard on Alaska, as oil prices dropped, pulp mills closed down, logging declined, and commercial fishing suffered from low prices and a market flooded with farmed
20 世纪 90 年代末期，阿拉斯加的日子不好过，油价下跌，纸浆厂倒闭，伐木业衰退，商业捕鱼价格低廉，市场上充斥着养殖的鱼类。
salmon from Chile, Norway, and British Columbia. But the first several years of the 21st century brought a reversal, with sky-high oil and gold prices, a big push to develop a natural gas pipeline across the state (it’s been in the works for decades with no signs of coming into existence), increased tourism, higher prices for Alaska’s wild salmon, and major political upheavals as FBI investigations threatened the oil industry’s stranglehold on state government. In 2006, voters did the unthinkable by voting to tax and regulate the cruise ship industry while simultaneously throwing out an incumbent governor (and former U.S. senator), Frank Murkowski, and replacing him with an almost unknown politician named Sarah Palin. This was followed by a series of scandals that sent legislators to prison on corruption charges and eventually brought down Senator Ted Stevens. His conviction was later overturned, but not before voters had thrown him out of office in the 2008 election.
智利、挪威和不列颠哥伦比亚省的三文鱼。但在 21 世纪的头几年，情况发生了逆转，石油和黄金价格暴涨，阿拉斯加州大力发展横跨全州的天然气管道（该项目已酝酿数十年，但没有任何迹象表明其会实现），旅游业发展，阿拉斯加野生鲑鱼价格上涨，以及由于联邦调查局的调查威胁到石油行业对州政府的控制而引发的重大政治动荡。2006 年，选民们做出了不可思议的举动，他们投票决定对游轮业征税并进行监管，同时将现任州长（前美国参议员）弗兰克-穆尔科斯基（Frank Murkowski）赶下台，由几乎默默无闻的政治家萨拉-佩林（Sarah Palin）取而代之。随后，一系列丑闻接踵而至，议员们因腐败指控而入狱，参议员泰德-史蒂文斯（Ted Stevens）也最终落马。他的罪名后来被推翻，但在此之前，选民已在 2008 年大选中将他赶下了台。
Even bigger news in 2008 was the sudden ascendancy of Sarah Palin, Alaska’s then-governor. When John McCain brought her onto his ticket as the Republican vice presidential candidate, Palin garnered intense international attention-not all of it positive. She resigned in 2009 after less than three years in office but remains a fringe figure on the national stage.
2008 年更大的新闻是时任阿拉斯加州州长的萨拉-佩林的突然崛起。当约翰-麦凯恩把她作为共和党副总统候选人纳入自己的竞选名单时，佩林引起了国际社会的强烈关注--并非全部都是正面的。2009 年，她在任职不到三年后辞职，但仍是国家舞台上的边缘人物。
Alaskan’s politics are all over the place. In 2020 they voted overwhelmingly for Donald Trump, reelected many Republicans across the board, but simultaneously supported ranked-choice voting, one of the most progressive voting measures ever.
阿拉斯加人的政治立场五花八门。2020 年，他们以压倒性多数投票支持唐纳德-特朗普，让许多共和党人全面连任，但同时又支持排序选择投票，这是有史以来最进步的投票措施之一。
Today, both of Alaska’s U.S. senators are Republican-the moderate Lisa Murkowski and right-wing Dan Sullivan. Representative Don Young, who became the longest-serving member of the U.S. House of Representatives, was first elected in 1973 and died in 2022. The Alaska governor is a Trump-supporting Republican, but the legislature reflects a split personality, with Democrats controlling the House but not the Senate.
如今，阿拉斯加的两位美国参议员都是共和党人--温和派的丽莎-穆尔科斯基（Lisa Murkowski）和右翼的丹-沙利文（Dan Sullivan）。众议员唐-杨（Don Young）是美国众议院任期最长的议员，他于 1973 年首次当选，并于 2022 年去世。阿拉斯加州州长是一位支持特朗普的共和党人，但立法机构体现了人格分裂，民主党控制了众议院，但没有控制参议院。

Like Delaware, Wyoming, Vermont, and North Dakota, Alaska has only one representative to the U.S. Congress, along with two senators. There are 20 state senators elected to four-year terms and 40 state representatives elected to two-year terms. They meet in the capitol in Juneau January-March. Local government is a mishmash of 16 first- and second-class boroughs, firstand second-class unincorporated villages, and tribal governments.
与特拉华州、怀俄明州、佛蒙特州和北达科他州一样，阿拉斯加州在美国国会中只有一名众议员和两名参议员。20 名州参议员任期四年，40 名州众议员任期两年。他们于 1 月至 3 月在朱诺的国会大厦举行会议。地方政府由 16 个一级和二级行政区、一级和二级非法人村庄以及部落政府组成。

The vast majority of Alaska’s 375 million acres is publicly owned, with less than 1 percent in private hands. Some 60 percent of this land is under federal management, with most of the rest in state or Native Alaskan corporation hands. Get details from Anchorage’s Alaska Public
阿拉斯加 3.75 亿英亩的土地绝大部分为公有，只有不到 1% 的土地属于私人所有。其中约 60% 的土地由联邦管理，其余大部分由州政府或阿拉斯加土著公司掌握。从安克雷奇的阿拉斯加公共网站获取详细信息
Lands Information Center (907/644-3678 or 866/869-6887, www.alaskacenters.gov). National Park Service
土地信息中心（907/644-3678 或 866/869-6887，www.alaskacenters.gov）。国家公园管理局
In the federal scheme of things, the National Park Service gets all the glory. National parks are the country’s scenic showcases, and visitors come by the millions, usually to look, occasionally
在联邦政府的计划中，国家公园管理局（National Park Service）获得了所有的荣耀。国家公园是国家的风景展示中心，游客数以百万计，通常是为了观赏，偶尔也
to experience. Denali National Park and Preserve-home to North America’s highest mountain-is Alaska’s most famous and overloved park, attracting well over 500,000 tourists each year. Kenai Fjords National Park is visited primarily by tour boat from Seward, and Katmai National Park and Preserve (on the Alaska Peninsula) is a popular bear-viewing destination by air from Anchorage, Homer, Soldotna, and Kenai. Another dozen national parks are found in other parts of Alaska, including the nation’s largest, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. For details on national parks in Alaska, contact the National Park Service (907/271-2737, www.nps.gov/akso) in Anchorage.
体验。拥有北美最高山峰的迪纳利国家公园和保护区是阿拉斯加最著名、最受欢迎的公园，每年吸引超过 50 万游客。基奈峡湾国家公园（Kenai Fjords National Park）主要从苏厄德（Seward）乘旅游船游览，而卡特迈国家公园和保护区（位于阿拉斯加半岛）则是深受欢迎的观熊胜地，游客可从安克雷奇（Anchorage）、荷马（Homer）、索尔多纳（Soldotna）和基奈（Kenai）乘飞机前往。阿拉斯加其他地区还有十几个国家公园，包括全国最大的弗兰格尔-圣伊莱亚斯国家公园和保护区。有关阿拉斯加国家公园的详细信息，请联系安克雷奇的国家公园管理局（907/271-2737，www.nps.gov/akso）。

In Alaska, the U.S. Forest Service manages the nation’s two largest national forests: Tongass National Forest in southeast Alaska and Chugach National Forest (907/271-3992, www.fs.fed.us/r10/chugach) in Southcentral Alaska. Covering 6.9 million acres on the Kenai Peninsula and around Cordova, Chugach is a popular recreation destination, with hundreds of miles of hiking trails and a number of campgrounds and visitors centers. Also here are 40 public-use cabins, accessible by road or trail. Reserve cabins and campgrounds through Recreation.gov (606/515-6777 or 877/444-6777, $8 reservation fee).
在阿拉斯加，美国林务局管理着全国最大的两个国家森林：阿拉斯加东南部的汤加斯国家森林公园和阿拉斯加中南部的丘加奇国家森林公园（907/271-3992，www.fs.fed.us/r10/chugach）。丘加奇国家森林公园位于基奈半岛和科尔多瓦周围，占地面积 690 万英亩，拥有数百英里长的徒步旅行小径以及众多露营地和游客中心，是深受欢迎的休闲胜地。此外，这里还有 40 个公共使用的小木屋，可通过公路或小径到达。可通过 Recreation.gov 预订小木屋和露营地（606/515-6777 或 877/444-6777，预订费 8 美元）。

The Fish and Wildlife Service manages 16 different refuges covering more than 75 million acres in Alaska. The most accessible of these is Kenai National Wildlife Refuge on the Kenai Peninsula, with a newly opened visitors center in Soldotna, hiking trails, canoe routes, publicuse cabins, campgrounds, and world-famous fishing. The Islands and Oceans Visitor Center in Homer provides a fine introduction to the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, which sprawls across 2,500 Alaskan islands. For details on Alaskan refuges, contact the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (907/786-3909, http://alaska.fws.gov).
鱼类和野生动物管理局在阿拉斯加管理着 16 个不同的保护区，面积超过 7500 万英亩。其中最容易到达的是基奈半岛上的基奈国家野生动物保护区，该保护区在索尔多特纳新开设了一个游客中心，拥有远足径、独木舟路线、公共使用的小木屋、露营地和世界著名的钓鱼场所。位于荷马的群岛与海洋游客中心（Islands and Oceans Visitor Center）提供了阿拉斯加海洋国家野生动物保护区的详细介绍，该保护区横跨阿拉斯加 2500 个岛屿。有关阿拉斯加保护区的详细信息，请联系美国鱼类和野生动物管理局（907/786-3909，http://alaska.fws.gov）。

The State of Alaska owns 89 million acres-almost a quarter of the state-and manages this land for a variety of purposes, from mineral and oil development to state forests. The state manages more than 110 state parks and recreation areas spread over three million acres. Alaska’s most popular state park, Chugach State Park, covers nearly 500,000 acres bordering Anchorage. Denali State Park, south of Denali National Park, is equally impressive, covering 325,000 acres of wilderness mountains and hills. Kachemak Bay State Park, accessible by water taxi from Homer, stretches across 400,000 acres of mountains, glaciers, forests, and bays. Other important state parks in Southcentral Alaska include Independence Mine State Historical Park north of Palmer and Caines Head State Recreation Area near Seward. Camping fees at Alaska state parks are typically $\mathrm{\$}20$$\mathrm{\$}20$$20\$ 20 per night, with most parks charging a $\mathrm{\$}5$$\mathrm{\$}5$$5\$ 5 day-use fee. Chugach State Park and Kachemak Bay State Park also have public-use cabins for $\mathrm{\$}75$$\mathrm{\$}75$$75\$ 75 per night.
阿拉斯加州拥有 8,900 万英亩的土地，几乎占全州面积的四分之一，管理这些土地的目的多种多样，从矿产和石油开发到州立森林。阿拉斯加州管理着 110 多个州立公园和娱乐区，占地 300 万英亩。阿拉斯加最受欢迎的州立公园是丘加奇州立公园，占地近 50 万英亩，与安克雷奇接壤。位于德纳利国家公园南部的德纳利州立公园同样令人印象深刻，占地 32.5 万英亩的荒山和丘陵。从霍默（Homer）乘坐水上出租车可到达卡西马克湾州立公园，该公园占地 40 万英亩，包括山脉、冰川、森林和海湾。阿拉斯加中南部的其他重要州立公园包括帕尔默北部的独立矿山州立历史公园和苏厄德附近的凯恩斯角州立休闲区。阿拉斯加州立公园的露营费用通常为每晚 $\mathrm{\$}20$$\mathrm{\$}20$$20\$ 20 ，大多数公园收取 $\mathrm{\$}5$$\mathrm{\$}5$$5\$ 5 日间使用费。丘加奇州立公园（Chugach State Park）和卡赫马克湾州立公园（Kachemak Bay State Park）也有公共使用的小木屋，每晚收费 $\mathrm{\$}75$$\mathrm{\$}75$$75\$ 75 。

For additional state park information, call 907/269-8400 to request brochures and a statewide park map, or visit www.alaskastateparks.org. You can also use this website to check cabin availability and make reservations.
如需了解更多州立公园信息，请致电 907/269-8400 索取宣传册和全州公园地图，或访问 www.alaskastateparks.org。您还可以通过该网站查看木屋的供应情况并进行预订。
The Alaska Department of Fish and Game manages more than 30 state refuges, critical habitat areas, and wildlife sanctuaries, including the world-famous bear-viewing area at McNeil River. The agency issues sportfishing and hunting permits. For details on all its activities, contact the
阿拉斯加渔猎局管理着 30 多个州立保护区、重要栖息地和野生动物保护区，包括世界著名的麦克尼尔河熊观赏区。该局发放体育钓鱼和狩猎许可证。有关该局所有活动的详细信息，请联系

Alaska Department of Fish and Game (907/267-2253, www.adfg.alaska.gov).
Native Lands

Today, the 12 regional Native Alaskan corporations and more than 200 village and urban corporations created in 1971 by the ANCSA own some 37 million acres in Alaska. Much of this is closed to public access except with special permits; fees are commonly charged.
如今，根据《阿拉斯加土著居民法》于 1971 年成立的 12 个阿拉斯加地区土著公司以及 200 多个村庄和城市公司在阿拉斯加拥有约 3700 万英亩土地。其中大部分地区禁止公众进入，除非获得特别许可；通常都要收费。

No doubt about it - this place is expensive. Alaska ranks near the top in cost of living among all the states. Numerous factors conspire to keep prices high. Most consumer goods must be imported from the Lower 48, and transportation costs are tacked on along the way. In addition, the transportation and shipping rates within Alaska are similarly high, further inflating the cost of goods and services. In more remote regions especially, lack of competition coupled with steady demand ensures top-dollar prices. And let’s not forget how long and cold and dark Alaskan winters are: The cost of heat and utilities is a hardship, and Alaska ranks first in per capita energy consumption in the United States.
毫无疑问，这里的生活成本很高。阿拉斯加州的生活成本在各州中名列前茅。众多因素导致物价居高不下。大多数消费品都必须从 48 个州进口，运输成本也随之增加。此外，阿拉斯加州内的运输和运费也同样高昂，进一步抬高了商品和服务的成本。特别是在较为偏远的地区，缺乏竞争加上稳定的需求确保了高昂的价格。别忘了，阿拉斯加的冬天是多么漫长、寒冷和黑暗：供暖和公用事业的成本让人难以承受，阿拉斯加的人均能源消耗量在美国名列第一。
Prices in the north are much higher and are generally the worst in the remotest bush communities. Even in Homer-which is on the road system-food is 20 percent more expensive than in Anchorage.
北部的物价要高得多，一般来说，最偏远的丛林社区物价最贵。即使是在荷马（位于公路系统上），食品价格也比安克雷奇贵 20%。

In 1976, with oil wealth about to come gushing out of the south end of the pipeline, voters approved a state constitutional amendment calling for a percentage of all oil and mineral revenues to be placed in a Permanent Fund (www.apfc.org). Money from this account can only be used for investment, not for state operating expenses, which explains why, during recent Alaskan recessions, when hundreds of state workers were laid off and state funds were severely cut back, billions of surplus dollars sat untouched in the fund. It’s the only one of its kind in the country, the only state fund that pays dividends to residents, and the largest pool of public money in the country. In 2021 it totaled more than $\mathrm{\$}70$$\mathrm{\$}70$$70\$ 70 billion.
1976 年，随着石油财富即将从输油管南端喷涌而出，选民们批准了一项州宪法修正案，要求将所有石油和矿产收入的一定比例存入永久基金（www.apfc.org）。该账户的资金只能用于投资，不能用于州政府的运营开支，这也就解释了为什么在阿拉斯加最近的经济衰退期间，数百名州政府工作人员被解雇，州政府资金被大幅削减，但该基金中的数十亿美元盈余却纹丝不动。这是全国唯一的此类基金，也是唯一向居民分红的州基金，还是全国最大的公共资金池。2021 年，该基金总额超过 $\mathrm{\$}70$$\mathrm{\$}70$$70\$ 70 亿美元。
A portion of the interest and capital gains income from these assets is distributed to all Alaska residents-even children-in a yearly Permanent Fund Dividend check sent out each October. In 1982, the first year of the dividend, each Alaskan received $\mathrm{\$}1,000$$\mathrm{\$}1,000$$1,000\$ 1,000, but it didn’t reach that level again until the stock market boom of the late 1990s. The payout most years is now around $\mathrm{\$}1,000$$\mathrm{\$}1,000$$1,000\$ 1,000 per person but varies with investment earnings. All this sudden cash doesn’t go
这些资产的部分利息和资本利得收入通过每年十月寄出的永久基金红利支票分发给所有阿拉斯加居民，甚至包括儿童。1982 年，也就是分红的第一年，每个阿拉斯加人都收到了 $\mathrm{\$}1,000$$\mathrm{\$}1,000$$1,000\$ 1,000 ，但直到 20 世纪 90 年代末的股市繁荣时期才再次达到这一水平。现在，大多数年份的分红约为每人 $\mathrm{\$}1,000$$\mathrm{\$}1,000$$1,000\$ 1,000 ，但随投资收益而变化。这些突如其来的现金不会
unnoticed by local businesses, especially car dealers, furniture stores, and airlines, which put out a plethora of special deals as soon as the money hits the banks.
当地企业，尤其是汽车经销商、家具店和航空公司，并没有注意到这一点。

Anyone thinking of moving to Alaska to get rich is in for a rude awakening. For a number of years after the oil boom, Alaskans earned the most per capita of any state. As of 2018, it was ranked seventh-but still has the fifth-highest cost of living. The state’s unemployment figures are usually several percentage points above the national average, even during the peak summer season.
任何想搬到阿拉斯加致富的人都会大吃一惊。在石油繁荣之后的若干年里，阿拉斯加人的人均收入是所有州中最高的。截至 2018 年，阿拉斯加排名第七，但生活成本仍然排名第五。该州的失业率通常比全国平均水平高出几个百分点，即使在夏季旺季也是如此。
Despite this, you can still come to Alaska and make a decent living; after all, most Alaskans came from somewhere else (only a third of Alaskans were born in the state-the second-lowest such percentage in the country). But the opportunities, it should be stressed, are limited. For example, almost a third of the people collecting a paycheck in Alaska work for federal, state, or local government. And the industry that accounts for 87 percent of state revenues (oil and gas) accounts for just 3 percent of employment. The real growth of late has come at the bottom end, in service jobs and retail sales, where your income would probably leave you officially listed with poverty status. So if a job as a Walmart stocker is your dream, hop on the next flight to Anchorage. Fortunately, voters passed a ballot measure that raised the minimum wage to $\mathrm{\$}10.34$$\mathrm{\$}10.34$$10.34\$ 10.34 per hour in 2022. (In reality, it would be virtually impossible to survive on that wage in Alaska, unless you’re bunking with your parents or couch-surfing.)
尽管如此，您仍然可以来到阿拉斯加，过上体面的生活；毕竟，大多数阿拉斯加人都来自其他地方（只有三分之一的阿拉斯加人出生在阿拉斯加州，这一比例在全国倒数第二）。但需要强调的是，机会是有限的。例如，在阿拉斯加领薪水的人中，几乎有三分之一为联邦、州或地方政府工作。而占州政府收入 87% 的行业（石油和天然气）仅占就业人数的 3%。近来真正的增长来自底层的服务业和零售业，在这些行业中，你的收入可能会让你被正式列为贫困人口。因此，如果沃尔玛的仓储员是你的梦想，那就跳上下一班飞往安克雷奇的航班吧。幸运的是，选民们通过了一项投票措施，将 2022 年的最低工资提高到 $\mathrm{\$}10.34$$\mathrm{\$}10.34$$10.34\$ 10.34 每小时。(实际上，要想在阿拉斯加靠这个工资生存几乎是不可能的，除非你和父母挤在一起或在沙发上寄宿）。
For employment information, visit the Alaska Department of Labor’s Alaska Job Center (www.jobs.state.ak.us), with an up-to-date listing of openings around the state. Here you’ll find details on jobs in all sectors, including seasonal cannery work, state positions, and relocation information.
如需了解就业信息，请访问阿拉斯加州劳工部的阿拉斯加就业中心 ( www.jobs.state.ak.us)，这里有阿拉斯加州各地职位空缺的最新列表。在这里，您可以找到各行各业工作的详细信息，包括季节性罐头厂工作、州职位和搬迁信息。

Alaska’s fisheries account for over half of the country’s commercial fish production. Threequarters of the value is in groundfish (pollock and cod) and salmon, the rest in shellfish, halibut, herring, and others. Alaska produces almost all of the U.S. canned-salmon stock ( 200 million pounds), and eight Alaskan ports are among the country’s top 50 producers, with Dutch HarborUnalaska almost always in the top three, and Kodiak not far behind.
阿拉斯加的渔业占全国商业鱼类产量的一半以上。四分之三的产值来自底层鱼类（狭鳕和鳕鱼）和鲑鱼，其余为贝类、大比目鱼、鲱鱼和其他鱼类。阿拉斯加几乎生产美国所有的鲑鱼罐头（2 亿磅），阿拉斯加有八个港口跻身全国前 50 大生产商之列，其中荷兰港-乌纳拉斯卡几乎总是名列前三，科迪亚克也不甘落后。
Alaska’s fisheries are probably the most carefully managed in the country, with healthy stocks of wild salmon and halibut. Fish farming is illegal in Alaska, but farmed salmon from other areas flooded the market in the 1990s. Since then, there has been a resurgence in demand for high-quality Alaskan wild salmon as consumers see problems caused by the farm-raised version-not to mention the difference in taste.
阿拉斯加的渔业可能是该国管理最严格的渔业，野生鲑鱼和大比目鱼种群健康。在阿拉斯加养鱼是非法的，但在 20 世纪 90 年代，来自其他地区的养殖鲑鱼充斥市场。从那时起，由于消费者看到了养殖鲑鱼所带来的问题，更不用说口味上的差异，因此对高品质阿拉斯加野生鲑鱼的需求再次上升。
Learn more about Alaska’s seafood industry (and get some good salmon and halibut recipes) from the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (www.alaskaseafood.org).
从阿拉斯加海产品营销研究所 ( www.alaskaseafood.org) 了解更多有关阿拉斯加海产品产业的信息（并获得一些鲑鱼和大比目鱼的美味食谱）。

The percentage of Alaska’s land used for farming is as minuscule as the percentage of Alaska’s total economy that is accounted for by agriculture. Of the state’s 375 million acres ( 17 million of it suitable for farming), only 910,000 acres are considered cultivable; of those, only 31,000 acres are occupied by crops. The Matanuska Valley (Palmer and Wasilla) and the Tanana Valley (Fairbanks and Delta) contain almost 90 percent of Alaska’s usable farmland. Hay, potatoes, barley, and oats are the state’s top agricultural products. Despite this, there has been a remarkable growth in small farms across Alaska.
阿拉斯加用于耕作的土地所占的比例与农业在阿拉斯加经济总量中所占的比例一样微不足道。在全州 3.75 亿英亩的土地中（其中 1700 万英亩适合耕种），只有 91 万英亩可耕地；其中只有 31000 英亩用于种植农作物。马坦努斯卡山谷（帕尔默和瓦西拉）和塔纳纳山谷（费尔班克斯和三角洲）拥有阿拉斯加近 90% 的可用农田。干草、土豆、大麦和燕麦是该州的主要农产品。尽管如此，阿拉斯加州各地的小型农场仍有显著增长。
Peony flowers are one of Alaska’s most unusual new crops. Because of the vagaries of the market (brides love peonies for June weddings) and the timing of the growing season (Alaska peonies bloom in June), peony production is booming, particularly on the Kenai Peninsula and in the Mat-Su Valley. With peonies selling for $\mathrm{\$}6$$\mathrm{\$}6$$6\$ 6 a stem, it’s easy to see how this could be a profitable business! Check out the Alaska Peony Market Cooperative (www.alaskapeonymarket.com) for details.
牡丹花是阿拉斯加最不寻常的新作物之一。由于市场变化无常（新娘喜欢在六月的婚礼上种植牡丹）和生长季节的时机（阿拉斯加牡丹在六月开花），牡丹生产蓬勃发展，尤其是在基奈半岛和马特苏山谷。牡丹的售价为 $\mathrm{\$}6$$\mathrm{\$}6$$6\$ 6 一枝，不难看出这是一门有利可图的生意！详情请访问阿拉斯加牡丹市场合作社 ( www.alaskapeonymarket.com)。
Medical marijuana was approved by the voters in 1998, and a measure to legalize cannabis passed in 2014, making Alaska the third state in the nation to approve recreational marijuana. It is legal to grow and sell pot in Alaska, but rules strictly limit where and how it can be sold. A number of commercial growing operations are scattered across Alaska, along with several dozen cannabis shops, including more than 40 places in Anchorage alone.
1998 年，选民批准了医用大麻，2014 年通过了大麻合法化措施，使阿拉斯加成为全美第三个批准娱乐性大麻的州。在阿拉斯加种植和销售大麻是合法的，但相关规定严格限制了大麻的销售地点和方式。阿拉斯加州各地分布着许多商业种植基地，以及几十家大麻商店，仅在安克雷奇就有 40 多家。

Thirty million ounces of gold were taken from Alaska between 1880 and 1980. Today, the Fort Knox Mine near Fairbanks is Alaska’s biggest gold producer, extracting 1,000 ounces of gold per day.
从 1880 年到 1980 年，阿拉斯加共开采了 3 千万盎司黄金。如今，费尔班克斯附近的诺克斯堡金矿是阿拉斯加最大的黄金生产商，每天开采 1,000 盎司黄金。
Zinc is the state’s most valuable mineral, mined at the enormous Red Dog Mine, 90 miles north of Kotzebue. The largest zinc mine in the world, it produces 575,000 tons of zinc and 100 million tons of lead per year. Coal is mined at Usibelli, near Denali National Park, and deposits of jade, molybdenum, chromite, nickel, platinum, and uranium are known, though the cost of mining in remote Alaska limits these ventures.
锌是该州最有价值的矿产，由位于科采布以北 90 英里处的红狗矿（Red Dog Mine）开采。该矿是世界上最大的锌矿，年产锌 57.5 万吨，铅 1 亿吨。在德纳利国家公园附近的乌西贝里（Usibelli）有煤矿，已知的矿藏还有玉石、钼、铬铁矿、镍、铂和铀，但在偏远的阿拉斯加开采成本限制了这些项目。
One highly controversial mine does not yet exist. Located in the upper reaches of the Bristol Bay watershed, home to the world’s most productive red salmon fisheries, is an enormous gold, copper, and molybdenum deposit known as Pebble Creek. The mining company talks of valuations in the hundreds of billions of dollars, and a massive open pit mine has been proposed on the site. It is opposed, however, by an unlikely coalition that includes fishers, Native Alaskan corporations, environmentalists, and wealthy lodge owners.
有一个极具争议的矿场尚未存在。位于布里斯托尔湾流域上游、世界上最富饶的红鲑鱼渔场所在地，有一个巨大的金、铜和钼矿床，被称为卵石溪。矿业公司称其估值高达数千亿美元，并提议在该地建造一个大型露天矿。然而，该项目遭到了一个不太可能组成的联盟的反对，该联盟包括渔民、阿拉斯加土著公司、环保主义者和富有的旅馆老板。

Everything that moves in Alaska is lubricated with oil, primarily North Slope crude. Without oil, the Alaskan economy would stiffen, shatter, and disappear into thin air. Oil and gas revenues account for 87 percent of the state’s tax revenue. Alaska is so addicted to oil revenue that when the price of a barrel of oil drops by $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1, the budget must be adjusted by $\mathrm{\$}150$$\mathrm{\$}150$$150\$ 150 million.
阿拉斯加的一切活动都离不开石油，主要是北坡原油。没有石油，阿拉斯加的经济就会僵化、破碎，消失得无影无踪。石油和天然气收入占全州税收的 87%。阿拉斯加对石油收入如此上瘾，以至于每桶石油价格下跌 $\mathrm{\$}1$$\mathrm{\$}1$$1\$ 1 ，预算就必须调整 $\mathrm{\$}150$$\mathrm{\$}150$$150\$ 150 百万美元。

Though the industry accounts for just 3 percent of the total workforce, the average annual salary for these workers is over $\mathrm{\$}100,000$$\mathrm{\$}100,000$$100,000\$ 100,000. Few elected officials would dare speak out against the oil companies; they all know who pays the tab when election bills come in, and they don’t want that cash going to their opponents.
虽然该行业仅占劳动力总数的 3%，但这些工人的平均年薪却超过了 $\mathrm{\$}100,000$$\mathrm{\$}100,000$$100,000\$ 100,000 。几乎没有民选官员敢公开反对石油公司；他们都知道选举账单到手后由谁买单，他们不希望这些现金流向自己的对手。
At more than 230 million barrels of oil per year, production in Alaska ranks third in the nation (after North Dakota and Texas). Peak production was in 1988, when 738 million barrels of Prudhoe crude flowed through the pipeline. The Prudhoe Bay oilfield, the largest in North America and 18th largest in the world, had produced 18 billion barrels by 2018, still producing around 180 million barrels annually.
阿拉斯加的石油年产量超过 2.3 亿桶，位居全美第三（仅次于北达科他州和得克萨斯州）。最高产量出现在 1988 年，当时有 7.38 亿桶普拉德霍原油通过管道输送。普拉德霍湾油田是北美最大、世界第 18 大油田，到 2018 年已生产 180 亿桶，年产量仍在 1.8 亿桶左右。
Enormous quantities of natural gas lie beneath the North Slope, and proposals have been made to build a gas pipeline paralleling the existing oil line, or to develop a gas-to-liquids technology so that the gas can be sent down the existing oil pipeline. Higher gas prices and increased demand may finally lead to its development within the next decade. In addition to the North Slope, both oil and gas are produced from offshore wells in Cook Inlet. The natural gas is used in Anchorage and Kenai, but production has declined in recent years.
北坡地下蕴藏着大量的天然气，有人建议修建一条与现有石油管道平行的天然气管道，或者开发一种天然气液化技术，以便将天然气顺着现有的石油管道输送下去。天然气价格的上涨和需求的增加可能最终导致在未来十年内开发天然气管道。除北坡外，库克湾的近海油井也生产石油和天然气。天然气用于安克雷奇和基奈，但近年来产量有所下降。

Tourism is Alaska’s third-largest industry, behind petroleum production and commercial fishing. It’s also the second-largest employer, accounting for thousands of seasonal jobs. More than two million visitors travel to Alaska each year, with 90 percent of them arriving from the continental United States and Canada. The vast majority of visitors arrive May-September. Approximately half of all visitors (including business travelers) travel independently; the rest come up on cruise ships and package tours.
旅游业是阿拉斯加的第三大产业，仅次于石油生产和商业捕鱼。旅游业也是第二大雇主，提供数千个季节性工作岗位。每年有 200 多万游客前往阿拉斯加旅游，其中 90% 来自美国大陆和加拿大。绝大多数游客在 5 月至 9 月间抵达阿拉斯加。约有一半的游客（包括商务旅客）是自助旅行，其余的则是乘坐游轮和参加旅行团。

Native corporations are major players in Alaska’s economy, and they also have large investments (we’re talking billions of dollars) spread all over the nation. The corporations include Arctic Slope Regional Corporation (www.asrc.com), Cook Inlet Regional Corporation (CIRI) (www.ciri.com), Chugach Alaska Corporation (www.chugach-ak.com), Doyon Limited (www.doyon.com), and NANA Regional Corporation (www.nana.com).
土著公司是阿拉斯加经济的主要参与者，它们在全国各地也有大量投资（我们说的是数十亿美元）。这些公司包括北极斜坡地区公司（www.asrc.com）、库克湾地区公司（CIRI）（www.ciri.com）、Chugach 阿拉斯加公司（www.chugach-ak.com）、Doyon 有限公司（www.doyon.com）和 NANA 地区公司（www.nana.com）。
Doyon, with more than 12 million acres, is the largest corporate landholder in the nation. All these companies are involved in tourism ventures around Alaska, but CIRI and NANA especially have major investments in tour companies, hotels, and other facilities. If you travel in the north, you’ll probably spend time in a Native Alaskan-owned facility or on one of their tour boats or buses.
多永公司拥有超过 1200 万英亩的土地，是全美最大的企业土地所有者。所有这些公司都参与了阿拉斯加周边的旅游业，但 CIRI 和 NANA 尤其在旅游公司、酒店和其他设施方面拥有重大投资。如果您在北部旅行，您可能会在阿拉斯加土著拥有的设施或他们的旅游船或巴士上度过一段时光。

As of 2018, Alaska’s population was 740,000. It ranks 48th in total population; only Wyoming and Vermont have fewer people. Of this, roughly 15 percent are of Native Alaskan descent. The non-Native population is predominantly white, with a small percentage of Black, Hispanic, Asian, and Pacific Islanders. Anchorage has by far the most diverse population; more than one-
截至 2018 年，阿拉斯加的人口为 74 万。在总人口中排名第 48 位，只有怀俄明州和佛蒙特州的人口更少。其中，阿拉斯加原住民后裔约占 15%。非原住民人口以白人为主，还有一小部分黑人、西班牙裔、亚裔和太平洋岛民。迄今为止，安克雷奇的人口最为多样化；超过 1.5%的阿拉斯加原住民是美国人。
third of its residents are Latino, Asian, Black, or Native Alaskan. In fact, Anchorage’s Mountain View neighborhood is rated the most diverse in the nation, including many immigrants from Sudan, Cuba, Iran, Bhutan, and the Dominican Republic.
三分之一的居民是拉丁裔、亚裔、黑人或阿拉斯加原住民。事实上，安克雷奇的山景社区被评为全美最多元化的社区，包括许多来自苏丹、古巴、伊朗、不丹和多米尼加共和国的移民。

Alaska Native people come from five cultural groupings: Athabascan; Aleutiq; Yup’ik and Cup’ik; Inupiaq and St. Lawrence Island Yupik; and Eyak, Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian. With intermarriage and migration, the cultural groupings have blurred somewhat, but Native Alaskans are very proud of their heritage. Southcentral Alaska Natives were historically from two groups: Athabascan and Aleutiq. Athabascan peoples lived in interior parts of the region, while Aleutiq primarily occupied the coastline. On the Kenai Peninsula there are places where different groups were next to each other, with Kenaitze Dena’ina Athabascans in a village just a few miles from an Aleutiq settlement.
阿拉斯加原住民来自五个文化群体：阿萨巴斯卡人；阿留申人；尤普艾克人和库比艾克人；伊努皮亚克人和圣劳伦斯岛尤皮克人；以及埃雅克人、特林吉特人、海达人和齐姆希安人。随着通婚和迁徙，这些文化群体的划分有些模糊，但阿拉斯加原住民对自己的传统非常自豪。阿拉斯加中南部原住民历史上有两个族群：阿萨巴斯卡人和阿留提克人。阿萨巴斯卡人居住在该地区的内陆地区，而阿留提克人主要居住在海岸线上。在基奈半岛，有一些地方不同的族群毗邻而居，Kenaitze Dena'ina Athabascans 村与 Aleutiq 族定居点相距仅几英里。

Nomadic hunters and migrants, the Athabascans are related to the Tlingit people of southeast Alaska and the Navajo and Apache of the American Southwest. They subsisted on salmon and the interior’s mammals, mostly caribou and moose. They passed the cruel winters in tiny villages of no more than six houses, with a kashim, or community center, as the focal point. They ice-fished and trapped in the dark, using dogsleds as transportation. Their arts were expressed primarily in beautifully embroidered clothing and beadwork. The men remained constantly occupied with survival tasks-finding food, building houses, and maintaining gear. When the first white explorers and traders arrived in the early 19th century, the Athabascans immediately began to trade with them, learning the new cultures and in turn educating the newcomers in local customs and skills, not the least of which was dogsledding.
阿萨巴斯卡人是游牧狩猎者和迁徙者，与阿拉斯加东南部的特林吉特人以及美国西南部的纳瓦霍人和阿帕奇人有亲缘关系。他们以鲑鱼和内陆哺乳动物（主要是驯鹿和驼鹿）为生。他们在不超过六间房屋的小村庄里度过残酷的冬天，以一个 "卡西姆"（即社区中心）为中心。他们在黑暗中用狗拉雪橇作为交通工具进行冰上捕鱼和捕猎。他们的艺术主要表现在精美的刺绣服装和珠饰上。男人们一直忙于生存任务--寻找食物、建造房屋和维护装备。19 世纪初，当第一批白人探险家和商人来到这里时，阿萨巴斯卡人立即开始与他们进行贸易，学习新的文化，并反过来教育新来者了解当地的习俗和技能，其中最重要的就是雪撬。

As the Athabascans were almost entirely land-based people, the Aleuts (some prefer the terms Alutiiq or Sugpiaq) were almost entirely dependent on the sea. Clinging to the edge of tiny, treeless, windswept Aleutian Islands, they lived in small dwellings made of sealskin-covered frames, with fireplaces in the middle and steam baths attached on the sides. They made sea otter skins into clothing and processed walrus and seal intestines into parkas. Their kayaks (called bidarka) were made of marine mammal skins stretched over a wooden or whalebone frame. Basketry was their highest artistic achievement, and their dances were distinctly martial, with masks, rattles, and knives.
阿萨巴斯卡人几乎完全生活在陆地上，而阿留申人（有些人喜欢用 Alutiiq 或 Sugpiaq）则几乎完全依赖海洋。他们居住在阿留申群岛边缘无树、多风的小岛上，住在用海豹皮做成的小房子里，房子中间是壁炉，两边是蒸汽浴室。他们把海獭皮做成衣服，把海象和海豹的肠子加工成派克大衣。他们的皮艇（称为 "bidarka"）是用海洋哺乳动物的皮制成的，上面绷着木架或鲸骨架。编织篮子是他们最高的艺术成就，他们的舞蹈带有明显的武术色彩，有面具、拨浪鼓和刀。
When the Russians invaded the Aleutians in the mid-1700s like furies from hell, around 25,000 Aleuts inhabited almost all the Aleutian Islands and the southern portion of the Alaska Peninsula. Within 50 years, over half had died through violence, starvation, or disease. Most of the rest were enslaved and dispersed around the New World to hunt the sea otter and fight for the Russians. In fact, Aleuts traveled as far south as Catalina Island off the Southern California coast, wiping out the Gabrieleño people there, along with the entire otter population, in 1810.
17 世纪中期，当俄国人像地狱的恶魔一样入侵阿留申群岛时，约有 25 000 名阿留申人居住在几乎所有的阿留申群岛和阿拉斯加半岛南部。50 年间，一半以上的人死于暴力、饥饿或疾病。剩下的大部分人沦为奴隶，流落到新大陆各地，为俄国人捕猎海獭和打仗。事实上，阿留申人最远南下到南加州海岸的卡塔利娜岛，在 1810 年消灭了那里的加布里埃莱诺人和整个海獭种群。

Many of the women served as concubines to the Russian overlords, further diluting the Aleut lineage. Today, most Aleuts carry only half or a quarter Aleut blood; only 1,000 are considered full-blooded.
许多妇女为俄罗斯霸主纳妾，进一步稀释了阿留申人的血统。如今，大多数阿留申人只有一半或四分之一的阿留申血统，只有 1000 人被认为是全血统。

Not unlike most other aboriginal cultures, Native Alaskan arts and crafts were intricately intertwined with animism, religious ceremony, and utility. Each group worked with its abundant natural resources to produce all the necessities of a lifestyle in which subsistence, religion, and artistic expression were inseparable.
与大多数其他土著文化不同，阿拉斯加土著艺术和手工艺与万物有灵论、宗教仪式和实用性错综复杂地交织在一起。每个族群都利用丰富的自然资源生产生活必需品，在这种生活方式中，生存、宗教和艺术表现密不可分。

Alaskan tourism and Native Alaskan crafts have gone hand in hand since the first Russian stepped ashore. When John Muir arrived in Wrangell by steamer in 1890, he wrote, There was a grand rush on shore to buy curiosities and see totem poles. The shops were jammed and mobbed, high prices paid for shabby stuff manufactured expressly for tourist trade. Silver bracelets hammered out of dollars and half dollars by Indian smiths are the most popular articles, then baskets, yellow cedar toy canoes, paddles, etc. Most people who travel look only at what they are directed to look at. Great is the power of the guidebook-maker, however ignorant. A similar observation holds today, especially in the shops selling made-in-China Alaskan trinkets or carved-in-Bali totem poles and masks. When buying Native Alaskan handicrafts from anyone other than the artist, always look for the Silver Hand logo that identifies the work as an authentic Native Alaskan piece. Get details from the Alaska State Council on the Arts (907/269-6610 or 888/278-7424, www.education.alaska.gov/aksca). Good places to buy Native
自从第一个俄罗斯人上岸以来，阿拉斯加旅游业和阿拉斯加土著手工艺品就一直相伴相生。1890 年，当约翰-缪尔乘坐蒸汽船抵达弗兰格尔时，他写道："岸上出现了购买奇珍异宝和观看图腾柱的热潮。商店被挤得水泄不通，人们高价购买专为游客交易而制造的破烂物品。最受欢迎的商品是印第安铁匠用美元和半美元敲打出来的银手镯，然后是篮子、黄杉木玩具独木舟、桨等。大多数旅游者只看导游带他们看的东西。旅游指南制作者的力量是巨大的，无论他们多么无知。类似的看法在今天也适用，尤其是在出售中国制造的阿拉斯加饰品或巴厘岛雕刻的图腾柱和面具的商店里。从艺术家以外的人那里购买阿拉斯加原住民手工艺品时，一定要看是否有银手标志，该标志表明该作品是正宗的阿拉斯加原住民作品。详情请咨询阿拉斯加州艺术委员会（907/269-6610 或 888/278-7424，www.education.alaska.gov/aksca）。购买原住民艺术品的好去处

Alaskan crafts are the various museum gift shops and the Alaska Native Heritage Center in Anchorage.
安克雷奇的各种博物馆礼品店和阿拉斯加土著遗产中心都出售阿拉斯加工艺品。

The Inupiat Eskimo of northern coastal Alaska are renowned for their use of ivory, harvested only by Native Alaskans from the tusks and teeth of walrus, as well as ivory from woolly mammoths and giant mastodons uncovered by miners or erosion. The ivory is carved, also known as “scrimshawed,” and made into various implements. Today you’ll see ivory jewelry, $ulu$$ulu$uluu l u handles, cribbage boards, and the like. The use of ivory for handicrafts is severely restricted by federal regulations established to protect the walrus. Native carvers can carve on ivory obtained from walrus killed for subsistence food, and non-Natives can legally carve on fossilized ivory (darker-colored ivory that was buried in the ground). But don’t make the mistake of buying an ivory piece and then taking it through Canada, unless you have a written permit from the Convention on Trade in Endangered Species (www.cites.org). Avoid border confiscations and other legal problems by mailing your pieces home. You won’t have any problems carrying them on board an aircraft, unless your plane lands outside the United States.
阿拉斯加北部沿海地区的伊努皮亚爱斯基摩人以使用象牙而闻名，只有阿拉斯加原住民才能从海象的獠牙和牙齿上获取象牙，以及从长毛猛犸象和巨型乳齿象身上获取象牙，这些象牙是由矿工或水土流失造成的。象牙经过雕刻（也称为 "scrimshawed"）后被制成各种器具。今天，你可以看到象牙首饰、 $ulu$$ulu$uluu l u 手柄、木屑板等。为保护海象而制定的联邦法规严格限制使用象牙制作工艺品。土著雕刻师可以在为生存而捕杀的海象身上的象牙上进行雕刻，而非土著则可以合法地在化石象牙（埋在地下颜色较深的象牙）上进行雕刻。但是，除非您有《濒危物种贸易公约》（www.cites.org）的书面许可，否则不要错误地购买象牙制品，然后将其带过加拿大。邮寄象牙制品回国可以避免边境没收和其他法律问题。除非飞机降落在美国境外，否则携带象牙制品登机不会有任何问题。

All Native Alaskan groups used available resources to fashion baskets for storage, carrying, and cooking. Birch-bark baskets, often lashed with spruce roots, were made by the forest Athabascans. The coastal Haida, Tlingit, and Tsimshian people used the bark of big cedar trees. They also made entire baskets of spruce roots, occasionally weaving in maidenhead ferns for decoration. The Yup’ik and Aleut Indigenous people of western Alaska are known for small, delicate baskets fashioned from coastal rye grass. They also process baleen, the long strips of cartilage-like teeth that hang from the upper jaw of whales, and weave the strips into baskets. The finest examples of the different baskets are displayed in the largest Alaskan museums; commercial baskets sell for anywhere from $\mathrm{\$}50$$\mathrm{\$}50$$50\$ 50 for simple birch-bark trays to several thousand dollars for large baleen baskets.
阿拉斯加所有土著群体都利用现有资源制作篮子，用于储存、携带和烹饪。森林中的阿萨巴斯卡人制作桦树皮篮子，通常用云杉树根捆扎。沿海的海达人、特林吉特人和齐姆希安人则使用大雪松的树皮。他们还用云杉树根编织整个篮子，偶尔也会编入蕨类植物作为装饰。阿拉斯加西部的尤普伊克人和阿留申人以用沿海黑麦草编织精致的小篮子而闻名。他们还加工鲸须，即从鲸鱼上颚垂下的软骨状长条状牙齿，并将其编织成篮子。阿拉斯加最大的博物馆里陈列着各种篮子的精品；商业篮子的售价从简单的桦树皮托盘到数千美元的大型鲸须篮不等。

Each Native Alaskan culture had its traditional mask-making technology and its complex ceremonial uses for masks. Eskimo mask art and ritual were among the most highly developed in the world. Masks, like totems, represented the individual animals and birds that were worshipped, and each mask was believed to embody the spirit, or inua, of the animal. The masks of the Athabascans were worn by dancers, accompanied by a tribal choir, to dramatize the tribe’s relationship to animal spirits as well as to entertain guests at feasts. Some believe Aleut masks symbolized the faces of ancient inhabitants of the western Alaska archipelago, though these people were only distantly related to the Aleut, if at all.
每个阿拉斯加土著文化都有其传统的面具制作技术和复杂的面具仪式用途。爱斯基摩人的面具艺术和仪式是世界上最发达的。面具就像图腾一样，代表着人们崇拜的各种动物和鸟类，每个面具都被认为体现了动物的精神，或称 "inua"。阿萨巴斯卡人的面具由舞者佩戴，并由部落唱诗班伴奏，以表现部落与动物灵魂的关系，并在宴会上招待客人。有些人认为阿留申人的面具象征着阿拉斯加群岛西部古代居民的面孔，尽管这些人与阿留申人只有很远的关系。
The use of masks has declined in Native Alaskan cultures, and the art of mask-making isn’t as prevalent today as it’s said to have been before contact with the Western world. But you will
在阿拉斯加土著文化中，面具的使用已经减少，面具制作艺术如今也不像与西方世界接触之前那样盛行。但您可以
see commercial masks in Native Alaskan galleries and gift shops around the north; these bear a close resemblance to those of long ago.
在北部各地的阿拉斯加原住民画廊和礼品店里，都能看到商业面具；这些面具与很久以前的面具非常相似。

Fur parkas are the quintessential Eskimo garment and are available in remote villages and at shops in Anchorage and Fairbanks. The finest of these are custom-made and cost a small fortune; ask locally for the best seamstresses. Beautifully crafted dolls are a hallmark of Eskimo artists, who typically use furs and other local materials. Other distinctively Alaskan items include dance fans, beadwork, and handcrafted silver or jade jewelry.
裘皮大衣是爱斯基摩人的典型服装，在偏远的村庄以及安克雷奇和费尔班克斯的商店里都能买到。最好的皮大衣是定制的，价格不菲；请向当地询问最好的裁缝。制作精美的玩偶是爱斯基摩艺术家的标志，他们通常使用毛皮和其他当地材料。其他独具阿拉斯加特色的物品包括舞扇、珠饰以及手工银饰或玉饰。